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Old 04-29-2005, 09:02 PM   #6301
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No rear spoiler or sport spoiler = good for drifting.

I run my porsche body for this....you turn at high speed or get on power and the rear comes out...but there is so much DF on the front you can keep it in front of you.
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Old 04-29-2005, 09:57 PM   #6302
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I must say I love this sight. I've had my new R40 for a few days and have been reading on this thread even before I bought it. I have been playing with off-road and got the bug when visiting Atlanta and watched a local nitro car race for the afternoon.

I hate to ask this question, but I have searched for a while. I have downloaded a few set-up sheets and have the directions that came with the car.

I'm not sure how to look at a set-up sheet and know exactly what to do. The kit directions don't give any detail. My problem is that I think I have everything set the same in the rear but my tires are at different angles. Just slight enough to cause me some problems.

Here's the question. Is there any documents out there to help with these adjustments? I can keep adjusting things but I'm afraid to make it worse.

Thanks for any info.
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Old 04-29-2005, 11:19 PM   #6303
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Quote:
Originally posted by tonym29803
I must say I love this sight. I've had my new R40 for a few days and have been reading on this thread even before I bought it. I have been playing with off-road and got the bug when visiting Atlanta and watched a local nitro car race for the afternoon.

I hate to ask this question, but I have searched for a while. I have downloaded a few set-up sheets and have the directions that came with the car.

I'm not sure how to look at a set-up sheet and know exactly what to do. The kit directions don't give any detail. My problem is that I think I have everything set the same in the rear but my tires are at different angles. Just slight enough to cause me some problems.

Here's the question. Is there any documents out there to help with these adjustments? I can keep adjusting things but I'm afraid to make it worse.

Thanks for any info.

One thing about the R40 is that if you use the correct spacers as desribed in the instructions you are at a pretty nuetral set-up that should work OK. I assume you referring to the camber adjustments? This is the adjustment that makes the top of the tires "lean" in. The fronts are easily set using spacers while the rear of the car uses a top camber links that is adjustable. I assume this is the adjustment you are referring to. A good starting point is about 2 degrees (negative). In other words, the top of the tire leans in towards the chassis by 2 degrees (from perpendicular).

CHeck this out under FAQS in HPI website

http://www.hpiracing.com/index2.htm

.... then goto "Tuning Guide"......then "Level One..."



Let us know if you have a specific question on this.

Last edited by JAG Racing; 04-29-2005 at 11:27 PM.
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Old 04-30-2005, 10:31 AM   #6304
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Where can I get the full line of Kawahara products for the R40?
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Old 04-30-2005, 11:43 AM   #6305
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Quote:
Originally posted by performula
Where can I get the full line of Kawahara products for the R40?
LOOK AT RCMART
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Old 04-30-2005, 02:11 PM   #6306
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here's how I ended up cutting the holes.. it still runs warmer but not enough to cause problems.. running about 250*

after putting the spoiler on I really like the way this body handles.. lots of downforce front and rear..

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Old 04-30-2005, 02:33 PM   #6307
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Quote:
Originally posted by 20 SMOKE
LOOK AT RCMART
They have three items, but if you go to the kawahara website there are more than three. I was looking into buying the whole line aside from the universal shafts.
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Old 04-30-2005, 04:10 PM   #6308
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Well guys I'll be checking out my old track soon that ever. YES! Our R40s will be causing a stir there and I'll bring some xtra spares parts incase of breakage. Just gonna need a pit table and one of them canopy tent things.
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Old 04-30-2005, 04:24 PM   #6309
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Quote:
Originally posted by onnetz
here's how I ended up cutting the holes.. it still runs warmer but not enough to cause problems.. running about 250*

after putting the spoiler on I really like the way this body handles.. lots of downforce front and rear..


Onnetz - Most guys cut a 2 inch diameter hole( maximum allowed by ROAR rules ) in the upper center of the the front windshield so that you can refuel without taking the body off. Also - directly above the engine head you can cut a 0.5 to 1 in. diameter hole for the glow plug igniter. Then for the rear window, I usually cut two 2 inch diamter holes; side-by-side to maximize airflow. In addition to this I usually cut open the front drivers side and passenger side windows to allow more air into the car.

I like those colors too!... nice fade
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Old 04-30-2005, 05:26 PM   #6310
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Quote:
Originally posted by JAG Racing
Onnetz - Most guys cut a 2 inch diameter hole( maximum allowed by ROAR rules ) in the upper center of the the front windshield so that you can refuel without taking the body off. Also - directly above the engine head you can cut a 0.5 to 1 in. diameter hole for the glow plug igniter. Then for the rear window, I usually cut two 2 inch diamter holes; side-by-side to maximize airflow. In addition to this I usually cut open the front drivers side and passenger side windows to allow more air into the car.

I like those colors too!... nice fade
the way I've got it works for parking lot racing but the next body I do will be cut the way you described..

glad you like the fade.. it turned out better than I thought it would.. kindof a tropical theme..
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Old 04-30-2005, 07:04 PM   #6311
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JAG I like everything you said about cutting holes. Except for the window on the opposite side of the engine.

Reason people do one side. If you have two incoming opposite air paths , they will cancel each other. The same happens in a real car.

Leave one window open and let someone ride in the back behind you....theoretically where the motor is on an RC. Not in the driver seat, but behind the driver is where the motor is in relation to a real car.

They will get bombared with your window open. Then crack open the other side and roll it down....it will slow the wind coming in some.

As well it will equalize since its using both. It has to fight to get out. While with one its forcing it harder through that side and thats the side with the motor is, so it benefits it the most with this route. As well makes the body more aerodynamic.

Same goes with rolling down two windows in a car. Reason why when people drag race they roll up there windows. Cause it slows them down. Aerodyanmic parasitic drag is the term.

But anyway like I said everything else was perfect.

I just personally run one window. Sometimes two, but thats usually for show or for bodies that go on different vehicles.

For a race setup and most of my bodies I cut the window on the side of the motor. And align my front 2 in. windshield hole with the cooling head. Which in the case of the r40. Towards the Drivers side. While my rear windows are either a single larger oval type window in the center of the back...which helps draw the air across the motor and filter. To allow it to get some cool air, which also helps power and efficiency.
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Old 04-30-2005, 07:16 PM   #6312
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Also here is a quick visual reference for the guy asking about camber.

This is a text representation of a tire. Looking at the tread from the ground.

/ / \ \ = Negative Camber

\ \ / / = Positive Camber

| | | | = Neutral or Zero Camber

The reason for tire camber is in a turn the tire leans over so when you go with negative camber. This will help apply more tire during a turn. Giving you more turning ability. But as it looks. Youll notice less tire is touching on the straight away as well it shifts more of the weight towards the inside of the tire of a straight.

Negative camber will hurt traction and braking ability. But will increase cornering ability.

Hope this helps.
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Old 04-30-2005, 08:07 PM   #6313
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Artificial-I
[B]JAG I like everything you said about cutting holes. Except for the window on the opposite side of the engine.

.... No problem Artificial-I.... Don't ask an EE about aero dynamics
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Old 04-30-2005, 10:44 PM   #6314
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Artificial-I & Jag Racing

Thanks for your help. The problem was that the back end would spin out unless I got it rolling first.

I've studied today and made a few adjustments. The car was used before I received it, but in great shape with tons of parts. It has a Novarossi NS3 and RD logics pipe. It had -2 camber and the tires had worn at the negative angle as well. It also has the gold pinion gears on it and the large spur gears. I think this meant it was set-up for fast accelerating and tight turns. I know there are some more settings to review like the shock positions and a few others. I put new tires on it and changed it to -1 for now. I'll give it a try in the morning.

Thanks again for all the help. I'll keep reading!!!

Tony
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Old 04-30-2005, 11:49 PM   #6315
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
we race in Nanuet NY on tues nites.........parking lot track(100 x 125)....road rail,lights,stand....and this year,transponders(personal)..and computer.....start around 7 PM.....ends...when we get tired(on some nights last year,we ran till 1 am)...........

we still haven't figured out how many play vs race nights we are gonna have....its still not quite warm at night,and the guys haven't showed up full force.....I won't be ready for 2 weeks either.....

touring ONLY.....we might run electric also.....also,we might have a stock HPI class.....running ONLY hpi cars(NO R40s) with the new wide tires and wheels fron HPI...and ONLY non racing bodies(lambo's,pantera etc)...sort of like a stock class with cool bodies...

all that,and you get to meet fastharry..(and see how slow i really

am...

)...




DAMN Nanuet NY is far from queens. is it worth it to se fast harry?
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