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Old 04-28-2005, 12:26 AM   #6241
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Well guys, just got done working on the car. I literally started right when I posted im gonna rip it apart.

Before like I said it was notchy , sticky. The arm would move , then stop , then move more. Wouldnt point straight. Then if you went full travel servo would move more and would kinda push the balls inward....they had this weird play that was like a joint poping out of the socket. When pushed hard enough it would go beyond spec.

Well as soon as I ripped it apart I found out the steering problem or problems in this case and fixed it!

One, my car is used. So im going to find some odd stuff, at least with who I bought it from its now obvious that im going to encounter some odd stuff.

Anyways. He had like a rpm ball cup for the steering knuckle side and another kind of weird open end ball cup on the steering linkage. Not the stock setup.

I then noticed the screw that connects linkage to the inner arms that sits on top of the bearing. Was very loose, I tightened that.

Then after finding & putting the stock open end ball cups (or whatever you call those) Part # A313 onto the tie-rods.

Then when going to install that. I found one of the steering knuckles had an odd size ball end that was used. I took that out and luckily was able to find another one that was the right size.

Slapped everything back together and just tested it out and............







Perfection.

Well that was a good nights work. Now off to sleep and will be running this thing tommorrow as planned.
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Old 04-28-2005, 06:39 AM   #6242
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Artificial-I

If you are running rubber tires, try a firm insert such as the HPI blue 24mm. You should find that the traction is good with something like a HPI-33 tire with a blue /firm inserts (rear).
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Old 04-28-2005, 08:57 AM   #6243
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Artificial-I : without exception, when buying somthing used the first thing you should do is to tear it down..
for two reasons...

1. If you find somthing really wrong you can try and work somthing out with the seller.....(the sooner the better)

2. If somthing is wrong with it causing you to crash, good luck working somthing out with the seller.....
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Old 04-28-2005, 09:29 AM   #6244
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Hey guys, any of you use 3Racing or GPM products. I was looking at them and wanted to know if they are any good. What are the pros and cons of the aluminum diffs. and aluminum pulleys etc? Which products are better etc? I race my R40 and would like to be more competitive without needing to change parts every so often...

Later!
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Old 04-28-2005, 09:39 AM   #6245
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MRD: Aluminum is heavier and you want to be lighter... It's more durable, but heavier. I use 3 racing aluminum pulleys, but just for bashing around, not for competition.

I use GPM titanium 2 speed shaft and front shaft, so far they've worked great...

When it comes to lightparts 3 racing is a good choice , I use al the graphite parts you can think of.

Get the rear/ front shock towers
side belt tensioner
steeering brace
lower suspencion brace
battery protector
titanium shafts
lw 2 speed tranny

good luck!!!
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Old 04-28-2005, 09:42 AM   #6246
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Hey onnetz what engine do you have?
I'm planning on waiting for the OStz ,12 strictly for competition or maybe go he extra mile and spend more doe on the rody RB engine...
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Old 04-28-2005, 09:51 AM   #6247
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Anyone knows GPMs website? Integy sucks for getting parts since the numbers are wrong. Looks like my front graphite shock tower might got a lil clip on the right since it bends back a little bit!
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Trying to live every day like its the last....
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Old 04-28-2005, 09:53 AM   #6248
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What are the reasons and characteristics of locking the front, rear, and/or both differentials?

Thanks.
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Old 04-28-2005, 09:58 AM   #6249
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Locking the rear diff is good only on high bite tracks. locking the front diff with a oneway or a solid diff case make the car more agressive when pulling out of a turn. You get 50-50 power on both front wheels, so your pullout will be faster. The problem with the oneway is that you lose front beraking and the problem with the solid front diff is that you lose some steering, but overall they are both good depending on what you need them to.
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Old 04-28-2005, 09:59 AM   #6250
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Quote:
Originally posted by HarKonnenD
Anyone knows GPMs website? Integy sucks for getting parts since the numbers are wrong. Looks like my front graphite shock tower might got a lil clip on the right since it bends back a little bit!
HARK- I dont have a website, but I get GPM parts from rcmart if that helps ok

Last edited by KLANDERMAN; 04-28-2005 at 10:07 AM.
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Old 04-28-2005, 10:15 AM   #6251
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Quote:
Originally posted by KLANDERMAN
Hey onnetz what engine do you have?
I'm planning on waiting for the OStz ,12 strictly for competition or maybe go he extra mile and spend more doe on the rody RB engine...
I have the nitro star pro .12r xs.. this being my first nitro tc I dont have anything to compare it to, but it will idle all day long and is damn fast, especially now that I got the car shifting into 2nd gear..
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Old 04-28-2005, 10:16 AM   #6252
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NICE!!! you finally got the car to shift... What was the problem on 2 speed tranny?
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Old 04-28-2005, 11:10 AM   #6253
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Default GPM website

Here is GPMs web..

http://www.gpmracing.com.hk/front/front.html
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Old 04-28-2005, 11:21 AM   #6254
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Default R40 - weakness

After racing the R40 for the second year I have come to the conclusion that its weakest point is popping sterring knuckles off of the pivot balls. It doesnt take a big hit off of the wall to accomplish this either. And if you change over to the aluminum steerings knuckles, you will then break pivot balls.

Other than that the car is very reliable. Now, if you are an excellent driver that never "tags" walls, then maybe you are not too concerned. Even if you are a skilled driver, it is likely that someone else bumps you up against a wall so there is benefit for you as well.

The fix could be slightly stronger steering blocks make from some stronger somposite material but this would be expensive. An alternate would be to use a wider bumper that extends out the the tire so that less tire is exposed during a glance off of the walls. I am working on a new design and I hope to have some new bumpers that are made from stronger foam and are wider.

I bring this up because I see many other cars, MTX-3, Kyosho RRR, Sepents, that seem to be a little "tougher" when they glance off of the walls. I use the term glance becuase I am not talking about a direct hit, only a glance at about a 15 - 25 degree angle of attack on the walls.

Do any of you guys know of any other "reliability" issues?
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Old 04-28-2005, 12:35 PM   #6255
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Quote:
Originally posted by KLANDERMAN
NICE!!! you finally got the car to shift... What was the problem on 2 speed tranny?
the set screws were not tight enough.. I didnt have that little gap between the shoes.

the first time I reset everything, it went from not shifting to always being in 2nd.. lol
its about right now but I still need to fine tune it.. just haven't had the time..
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