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Old 04-21-2005, 11:27 AM   #6061
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tabushi
Hi,

A friend its about to buy an R40 (normal one) as his first nitro 200mm car (he runs offroad). On the R40 wich are the most parts that tend to break in order to take replacement parts in hand ?. Im recommending him based on my exprience with 200mm nitro cars and basically im asking him to buy :

- Entire Belts sets.
- Lower and upper suspension arms.
- Suspension mount set.

Other than that ... what ? ...

Thanks !!
Steering knuckles, shock shafts and body clips. Anything more serious then that and you'd have to stock too many parts.
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Old 04-21-2005, 11:30 AM   #6062
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Quote:
Originally posted by HarKonnenD
more..He was sliding out a bit with his setup. Hopefully when I get my car dialed in I can help him.
If you are trying to get your cars suspension set up, make sure that you are running your race body. Also try to run on the same type of surface you race on. Otherwise, use Hara's setup as a baseline and practice, using cones.
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Old 04-21-2005, 11:30 AM   #6063
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Pivot Balls
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Old 04-21-2005, 12:00 PM   #6064
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rapid Roy
If you are trying to get your cars suspension set up, make sure that you are running your race body. Also try to run on the same type of surface you race on. Otherwise, use Hara's setup as a baseline and practice, using cones.
Believe it or not, both the track, the parking lot here, and the lot at my college campus all are asphalt. However, the track has more traction as well as my campus. Both are hardly sprayed, but the traction is great. The parking lot we were running at in the the pictures had low bite so we did slide around a bit.

Quote:
sasonrc-Does anyone know of the effects of what the lower suspension brackets have on your handling? these are the plastic parts that have a 0 or a 2mm engraved on the inside. see items in plastic tree 73479 #4 and #2 (0) and #5 and #6 (2).
I never really took notice. I thought they were just spare parts. never really seen anyone experiment with these or actually ask, but maybe someone like Fast Harry, AMG, or Jag may have messed with it. Are you still racing at QURC? I'll be trying to get to there and Floyd Bennett. How far did you go on upgrades on the car?

Tabushi-Also, get spur gears, shock bodies, rear hubs and arms, dog bones, and body posts. They all come together on the parts trees, which is good so you'll be safe.
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Old 04-21-2005, 12:26 PM   #6065
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HarK, Thanks for the additional info. What I was getting at was that if you get your car all dialed in and handeling just the way you want at the low traction parking lot, then come race day, you are going to be making many changes to your suspension. If you can run on a similar grip surface you will have a much easier time of setting up and driving on race day. If you don't have much choice where you run, then any practice is better then none at all.
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Old 04-21-2005, 12:50 PM   #6066
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I know. For now we enjoy the rush of sliding around with a spare set of foams. Believe it or not, the wear is very minimal. Funny how my R40 never slide out with zero toe in, but his slides out pretty easily with about -1 or -1.5 toe in. The camber is -2. Not sure how his sway bar is setup or what shock oils, but when I drove it, the car was a bit twitchy compared to mine.
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Old 04-21-2005, 12:51 PM   #6067
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if you do not have a track to practice on then the best bet is try to find a clean parking lot to get dialed in. Chances are at race time, if you practiced well, you will be making small tweaks.

I for one run on different tracks all the time and changes sometimes are bare minimum.

Harkonnend: I no longer run with QURC, I venture out to different tracks. I do very little bash/race. I am trying to focus more on organized racing specially this year.

For spare parts... this is what I carry:

Spare tires
Front uprights
Pivot balls
Shock shafts, extra shocks
Rear camber links
lots of body clips

that's the minimum.

If you are going to compete in lots of races, then you will learn what breaks depending on your driving style.
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Old 04-21-2005, 01:10 PM   #6068
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Quote:
Originally posted by SasonRC
if you do not have a track to practice on then the best bet is try to find a clean parking lot to get dialed in. Chances are at race time, if you practiced well, you will be making small tweaks.

I for one run on different tracks all the time and changes sometimes are bare minimum.

Harkonnend: I no longer run with QURC, I venture out to different tracks. I do very little bash/race. I am trying to focus more on organized racing specially this year.

For spare parts... this is what I carry:

Spare tires
Front uprights
Pivot balls
Shock shafts, extra shocks
Rear camber links
lots of body clips

that's the minimum.

If you are going to compete in lots of races, then you will learn what breaks depending on your driving style.
Kewl, so ya left eh? Still live in Brooklyn, NY? I'm in Port Chester. I heard they are still working on the lap counter system for Floyd so I'm waiting to hear the results.
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Old 04-21-2005, 01:49 PM   #6069
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Yes I needed to explore.
I am still in NY and will try to hit Floyd if they have races there. I heard you will need a personal Transponder.

The track there is fast and high grip. That's where I go to test my car's set up. I like it.

I will be racing upstate at Pro Speed once they start. You should come out there.
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Old 04-21-2005, 06:27 PM   #6070
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Quote:
Originally posted by SasonRC
Yes I needed to explore.
I am still in NY and will try to hit Floyd if they have races there. I heard you will need a personal Transponder.

The track there is fast and high grip. That's where I go to test my car's set up. I like it.

I will be racing upstate at Pro Speed once they start. You should come out there.
If your going May 1st, maybe I'll se eyou there. I ran out at QURC a few times so maybe we have already met.
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Old 04-21-2005, 07:45 PM   #6071
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Quote:
Originally posted by Midak
If your going May 1st, maybe I'll se eyou there. I ran out at QURC a few times so maybe we have already met.
Hey you never know!!!
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Old 04-21-2005, 08:03 PM   #6072
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Default i've got a slew of issues setting my R-40

Guys pls help me with my setup.
i finally got the car to run............then it wouldn't idle......
my lhs said it was cos the clutch was engaging so that when i hit the brakes it just dies..............told me to remove the motor and adjust the clutch spring(tighter) which is part#87095 on pg 36..............i finally did that then i noticed that after putting it all back toghether she wouldn't roll forward or backwards ........sort of like the brake's on but its not.before i took out the motor to adjust the spring it would al least roll forward without a hitch.

what do i do to rectify this.

secondly how the hell do you get that end-play described on the bottom of page 36?? i've done everything, add shims, remove shims, i even lost a gear in the process of all that adjustment another hobby shop recomended i back the screw out but then the rest of the piece its holding in would fall out.......no?

pls advise.


thanks
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Old 04-21-2005, 08:36 PM   #6073
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Quote:
Originally posted by SasonRC
Yes I needed to explore.
I am still in NY and will try to hit Floyd if they have races there. I heard you will need a personal Transponder.

The track there is fast and high grip. That's where I go to test my car's set up. I like it.

I will be racing upstate at Pro Speed once they start. You should come out there.
Well, they haven't yet confirmed the status of the transponder and if it works well or not. I call Bklyn Hobbies to keep on the update. Pretty much we just run there for practicing and so on. Indeed it's a fast track and I now have the Rody V12 3 port STD plug on my R40 to test out. Gonna get one of those airplane starters, because you can hit the flywheel gently to get it started while the starter box you have to line it up and press down firmly to get it goin. The other boxes I assume are the same thing, so for now I'm gettin the airplane start. It's really easy:connect the al. clips to the batt, push the button and start away. I love it. Infact I think I'll go get it tomorrow or so. Need to get this V12 broken in and experience the speed.
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Old 04-21-2005, 08:53 PM   #6074
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Default Re: i've got a slew of issues setting my R-40

[QUOTE]Originally posted by farrk007
[B] Guys pls help me with my setup.
i finally got the car to run............then it wouldn't idle......
my lhs said it was cos the clutch was engaging so that when i hit the brakes it just dies..............told me to remove the motor and adjust the clutch spring(tighter) which is part#87095 on pg 36..............i finally did that then i noticed that after putting it all back toghether she wouldn't roll forward or backwards ........sort of like the brake's on but its not.before i took out the motor to adjust the spring it would al least roll forward without a hitch.

what do i do to rectify this.

secondly how the hell do you get that end-play described on the bottom of page 36?? i've done everything, add shims, remove shims, i even lost a gear in the process of all that adjustment another hobby shop recomended i back the screw out but then the rest of the piece its holding in would fall out.......no?

pls advise.

Tough one to comment on without visuals, but here we go. These instructions are simplistic and not the optimal set-up but it will get you close.....

1) Pull your engine out and adjust clutch nut so that 1 - 2 threads of the crank shaft are visible beyond the nut (assuming you assembled things correctly). Assemble bearings and clutch bell. Start with 2 silver shims and one copper shim. (silver shims are thicker than copper). The shims you add must stay on the screw collar when you tighten down the clutch bell screw, otherwise this will bind the clutch bell.

When installing the clutch end screw, I usually hold the engine with the clutch bell on in one hand pointing the crankshaft down towards the ground and with my other hand I use the allen driver to insert the shaft screw upwards (screw is mounted on the allen driver). This way the shims seem to stay on the collar while you are tightening the shaft screw.

Now spin the clutch bell and verify it freely spins (no drag) and you have 1- 1.5mm of end play. Add/remove shims to acheive this.

(2) with the engine out - verify drive train freely spins by grabbing both rear tires simultaneously and spin them.

(3) Make sure you have the engine idle screw set properly as well as this limits the amount the slide carberator will shut. When you have the engine installed and servos operating, give the car full brakes ( engine not running ). Look into the carb and verify that the carb opening is about 1/16th - 1/8th inch from closed position.

Now maybe you can give us more information after you tried this.

Good luck!
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Old 04-21-2005, 10:06 PM   #6075
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Well, I encountered the same dreaded problem I had with the MT12. The engine revved for a bitwithout stopping. I was like WTH? I stopped it immediately, but it was late in the day and was time for work. I'm assuming one of the needles were set a bit lean, because there was no fuel or smoke. However I like this engine, because it will IDLE all day and you rarely need to blip the throttle. Anyone using those single motor starter boxes? I know they make more RPM than dual motors, but do they have the torque for turning over these engines? I have having to loosen the plug a bit, and BTT I go to tighten it and press the throttle the engine shuts off, or the plug vibrates out. I will opt for that airplane starter, because it's SO convinient. Not sure why I didn't get one from the start.
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