HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum
#6061
Re: Urgent !
Originally posted by Tabushi
Hi,
A friend its about to buy an R40 (normal one) as his first nitro 200mm car (he runs offroad). On the R40 wich are the most parts that tend to break in order to take replacement parts in hand ?. Im recommending him based on my exprience with 200mm nitro cars and basically im asking him to buy :
- Entire Belts sets.
- Lower and upper suspension arms.
- Suspension mount set.
Other than that ... what ? ...
Thanks !!
Hi,
A friend its about to buy an R40 (normal one) as his first nitro 200mm car (he runs offroad). On the R40 wich are the most parts that tend to break in order to take replacement parts in hand ?. Im recommending him based on my exprience with 200mm nitro cars and basically im asking him to buy :
- Entire Belts sets.
- Lower and upper suspension arms.
- Suspension mount set.
Other than that ... what ? ...
Thanks !!
#6062
Originally posted by HarKonnenD
more..He was sliding out a bit with his setup. Hopefully when I get my car dialed in I can help him.
more..He was sliding out a bit with his setup. Hopefully when I get my car dialed in I can help him.
#6064
Tech Elite
iTrader: (23)
Originally posted by Rapid Roy
If you are trying to get your cars suspension set up, make sure that you are running your race body. Also try to run on the same type of surface you race on. Otherwise, use Hara's setup as a baseline and practice, using cones.
If you are trying to get your cars suspension set up, make sure that you are running your race body. Also try to run on the same type of surface you race on. Otherwise, use Hara's setup as a baseline and practice, using cones.
sasonrc-Does anyone know of the effects of what the lower suspension brackets have on your handling? these are the plastic parts that have a 0 or a 2mm engraved on the inside. see items in plastic tree 73479 #4 and #2 (0) and #5 and #6 (2).
Tabushi-Also, get spur gears, shock bodies, rear hubs and arms, dog bones, and body posts. They all come together on the parts trees, which is good so you'll be safe.
#6065
HarK, Thanks for the additional info. What I was getting at was that if you get your car all dialed in and handeling just the way you want at the low traction parking lot, then come race day, you are going to be making many changes to your suspension. If you can run on a similar grip surface you will have a much easier time of setting up and driving on race day. If you don't have much choice where you run, then any practice is better then none at all.
#6066
Tech Elite
iTrader: (23)
I know. For now we enjoy the rush of sliding around with a spare set of foams. Believe it or not, the wear is very minimal. Funny how my R40 never slide out with zero toe in, but his slides out pretty easily with about -1 or -1.5 toe in. The camber is -2. Not sure how his sway bar is setup or what shock oils, but when I drove it, the car was a bit twitchy compared to mine.
#6067
Tech Apprentice
if you do not have a track to practice on then the best bet is try to find a clean parking lot to get dialed in. Chances are at race time, if you practiced well, you will be making small tweaks.
I for one run on different tracks all the time and changes sometimes are bare minimum.
Harkonnend: I no longer run with QURC, I venture out to different tracks. I do very little bash/race. I am trying to focus more on organized racing specially this year.
For spare parts... this is what I carry:
Spare tires
Front uprights
Pivot balls
Shock shafts, extra shocks
Rear camber links
lots of body clips
that's the minimum.
If you are going to compete in lots of races, then you will learn what breaks depending on your driving style.
I for one run on different tracks all the time and changes sometimes are bare minimum.
Harkonnend: I no longer run with QURC, I venture out to different tracks. I do very little bash/race. I am trying to focus more on organized racing specially this year.
For spare parts... this is what I carry:
Spare tires
Front uprights
Pivot balls
Shock shafts, extra shocks
Rear camber links
lots of body clips
that's the minimum.
If you are going to compete in lots of races, then you will learn what breaks depending on your driving style.
#6068
Tech Elite
iTrader: (23)
Originally posted by SasonRC
if you do not have a track to practice on then the best bet is try to find a clean parking lot to get dialed in. Chances are at race time, if you practiced well, you will be making small tweaks.
I for one run on different tracks all the time and changes sometimes are bare minimum.
Harkonnend: I no longer run with QURC, I venture out to different tracks. I do very little bash/race. I am trying to focus more on organized racing specially this year.
For spare parts... this is what I carry:
Spare tires
Front uprights
Pivot balls
Shock shafts, extra shocks
Rear camber links
lots of body clips
that's the minimum.
If you are going to compete in lots of races, then you will learn what breaks depending on your driving style.
if you do not have a track to practice on then the best bet is try to find a clean parking lot to get dialed in. Chances are at race time, if you practiced well, you will be making small tweaks.
I for one run on different tracks all the time and changes sometimes are bare minimum.
Harkonnend: I no longer run with QURC, I venture out to different tracks. I do very little bash/race. I am trying to focus more on organized racing specially this year.
For spare parts... this is what I carry:
Spare tires
Front uprights
Pivot balls
Shock shafts, extra shocks
Rear camber links
lots of body clips
that's the minimum.
If you are going to compete in lots of races, then you will learn what breaks depending on your driving style.
#6069
Tech Apprentice
Yes I needed to explore.
I am still in NY and will try to hit Floyd if they have races there. I heard you will need a personal Transponder.
The track there is fast and high grip. That's where I go to test my car's set up. I like it.
I will be racing upstate at Pro Speed once they start. You should come out there.
I am still in NY and will try to hit Floyd if they have races there. I heard you will need a personal Transponder.
The track there is fast and high grip. That's where I go to test my car's set up. I like it.
I will be racing upstate at Pro Speed once they start. You should come out there.
#6070
Tech Apprentice
Originally posted by SasonRC
Yes I needed to explore.
I am still in NY and will try to hit Floyd if they have races there. I heard you will need a personal Transponder.
The track there is fast and high grip. That's where I go to test my car's set up. I like it.
I will be racing upstate at Pro Speed once they start. You should come out there.
Yes I needed to explore.
I am still in NY and will try to hit Floyd if they have races there. I heard you will need a personal Transponder.
The track there is fast and high grip. That's where I go to test my car's set up. I like it.
I will be racing upstate at Pro Speed once they start. You should come out there.
#6071
Tech Apprentice
Originally posted by Midak
If your going May 1st, maybe I'll se eyou there. I ran out at QURC a few times so maybe we have already met.
If your going May 1st, maybe I'll se eyou there. I ran out at QURC a few times so maybe we have already met.
#6072
Tech Rookie
i've got a slew of issues setting my R-40
Guys pls help me with my setup.
i finally got the car to run............then it wouldn't idle......
my lhs said it was cos the clutch was engaging so that when i hit the brakes it just dies..............told me to remove the motor and adjust the clutch spring(tighter) which is part#87095 on pg 36..............i finally did that then i noticed that after putting it all back toghether she wouldn't roll forward or backwards ........sort of like the brake's on but its not.before i took out the motor to adjust the spring it would al least roll forward without a hitch.
what do i do to rectify this.
secondly how the hell do you get that end-play described on the bottom of page 36?? i've done everything, add shims, remove shims, i even lost a gear in the process of all that adjustment another hobby shop recomended i back the screw out but then the rest of the piece its holding in would fall out.......no?
pls advise.
thanks
i finally got the car to run............then it wouldn't idle......
my lhs said it was cos the clutch was engaging so that when i hit the brakes it just dies..............told me to remove the motor and adjust the clutch spring(tighter) which is part#87095 on pg 36..............i finally did that then i noticed that after putting it all back toghether she wouldn't roll forward or backwards ........sort of like the brake's on but its not.before i took out the motor to adjust the spring it would al least roll forward without a hitch.
what do i do to rectify this.
secondly how the hell do you get that end-play described on the bottom of page 36?? i've done everything, add shims, remove shims, i even lost a gear in the process of all that adjustment another hobby shop recomended i back the screw out but then the rest of the piece its holding in would fall out.......no?
pls advise.
thanks
#6073
Tech Elite
iTrader: (23)
Originally posted by SasonRC
Yes I needed to explore.
I am still in NY and will try to hit Floyd if they have races there. I heard you will need a personal Transponder.
The track there is fast and high grip. That's where I go to test my car's set up. I like it.
I will be racing upstate at Pro Speed once they start. You should come out there.
Yes I needed to explore.
I am still in NY and will try to hit Floyd if they have races there. I heard you will need a personal Transponder.
The track there is fast and high grip. That's where I go to test my car's set up. I like it.
I will be racing upstate at Pro Speed once they start. You should come out there.
#6074
Re: i've got a slew of issues setting my R-40
[QUOTE]Originally posted by farrk007
[B] Guys pls help me with my setup.
i finally got the car to run............then it wouldn't idle......
my lhs said it was cos the clutch was engaging so that when i hit the brakes it just dies..............told me to remove the motor and adjust the clutch spring(tighter) which is part#87095 on pg 36..............i finally did that then i noticed that after putting it all back toghether she wouldn't roll forward or backwards ........sort of like the brake's on but its not.before i took out the motor to adjust the spring it would al least roll forward without a hitch.
what do i do to rectify this.
secondly how the hell do you get that end-play described on the bottom of page 36?? i've done everything, add shims, remove shims, i even lost a gear in the process of all that adjustment another hobby shop recomended i back the screw out but then the rest of the piece its holding in would fall out.......no?
pls advise.
Tough one to comment on without visuals, but here we go. These instructions are simplistic and not the optimal set-up but it will get you close.....
1) Pull your engine out and adjust clutch nut so that 1 - 2 threads of the crank shaft are visible beyond the nut (assuming you assembled things correctly). Assemble bearings and clutch bell. Start with 2 silver shims and one copper shim. (silver shims are thicker than copper). The shims you add must stay on the screw collar when you tighten down the clutch bell screw, otherwise this will bind the clutch bell.
When installing the clutch end screw, I usually hold the engine with the clutch bell on in one hand pointing the crankshaft down towards the ground and with my other hand I use the allen driver to insert the shaft screw upwards (screw is mounted on the allen driver). This way the shims seem to stay on the collar while you are tightening the shaft screw.
Now spin the clutch bell and verify it freely spins (no drag) and you have 1- 1.5mm of end play. Add/remove shims to acheive this.
(2) with the engine out - verify drive train freely spins by grabbing both rear tires simultaneously and spin them.
(3) Make sure you have the engine idle screw set properly as well as this limits the amount the slide carberator will shut. When you have the engine installed and servos operating, give the car full brakes ( engine not running ). Look into the carb and verify that the carb opening is about 1/16th - 1/8th inch from closed position.
Now maybe you can give us more information after you tried this.
Good luck!
[B] Guys pls help me with my setup.
i finally got the car to run............then it wouldn't idle......
my lhs said it was cos the clutch was engaging so that when i hit the brakes it just dies..............told me to remove the motor and adjust the clutch spring(tighter) which is part#87095 on pg 36..............i finally did that then i noticed that after putting it all back toghether she wouldn't roll forward or backwards ........sort of like the brake's on but its not.before i took out the motor to adjust the spring it would al least roll forward without a hitch.
what do i do to rectify this.
secondly how the hell do you get that end-play described on the bottom of page 36?? i've done everything, add shims, remove shims, i even lost a gear in the process of all that adjustment another hobby shop recomended i back the screw out but then the rest of the piece its holding in would fall out.......no?
pls advise.
Tough one to comment on without visuals, but here we go. These instructions are simplistic and not the optimal set-up but it will get you close.....
1) Pull your engine out and adjust clutch nut so that 1 - 2 threads of the crank shaft are visible beyond the nut (assuming you assembled things correctly). Assemble bearings and clutch bell. Start with 2 silver shims and one copper shim. (silver shims are thicker than copper). The shims you add must stay on the screw collar when you tighten down the clutch bell screw, otherwise this will bind the clutch bell.
When installing the clutch end screw, I usually hold the engine with the clutch bell on in one hand pointing the crankshaft down towards the ground and with my other hand I use the allen driver to insert the shaft screw upwards (screw is mounted on the allen driver). This way the shims seem to stay on the collar while you are tightening the shaft screw.
Now spin the clutch bell and verify it freely spins (no drag) and you have 1- 1.5mm of end play. Add/remove shims to acheive this.
(2) with the engine out - verify drive train freely spins by grabbing both rear tires simultaneously and spin them.
(3) Make sure you have the engine idle screw set properly as well as this limits the amount the slide carberator will shut. When you have the engine installed and servos operating, give the car full brakes ( engine not running ). Look into the carb and verify that the carb opening is about 1/16th - 1/8th inch from closed position.
Now maybe you can give us more information after you tried this.
Good luck!
#6075
Tech Elite
iTrader: (23)
Well, I encountered the same dreaded problem I had with the MT12. The engine revved for a bitwithout stopping. I was like WTH? I stopped it immediately, but it was late in the day and was time for work. I'm assuming one of the needles were set a bit lean, because there was no fuel or smoke. However I like this engine, because it will IDLE all day and you rarely need to blip the throttle. Anyone using those single motor starter boxes? I know they make more RPM than dual motors, but do they have the torque for turning over these engines? I have having to loosen the plug a bit, and BTT I go to tighten it and press the throttle the engine shuts off, or the plug vibrates out. I will opt for that airplane starter, because it's SO convinient. Not sure why I didn't get one from the start.