HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum
04-14-2005, 06:53 AM
#5761
Originally posted by 2Hammer
That Proceed looks very nice. Someone added a few Delta part mark parts to that car.
R-40 racers; The two best things you can do to improve the preformance of your cars is to add the alum. shocks and front one way.
That Proceed looks very nice. Someone added a few Delta part mark parts to that car.
R-40 racers; The two best things you can do to improve the preformance of your cars is to add the alum. shocks and front one way.
I have run my R40 pretty much stock since two months before the 2003 HPI Worlds in Las Vegas. It still performs very well. The two thing you mentioned will not improve performance like you think. Going with better bearings, making the car much lighter, and improving your driving skills (practice more) will improve performance. I race with a guy that has shaved 100 grams off his car, still uses the front diff and stock plastic shocks, an the car performs almost as well as my MTX-3 (my other car) and better than my stock R40. But, it was his extra driving practices, honing his skills that really improved his performance. Just my opinion so please don't be offended.
04-14-2005, 07:55 AM
#5762
Tips to improve the R-40
I think to improve your car there are basic things you need to know:
1. car set-up
ride height front/rear
right shocks and springs (stock work great)
camber front/rear
caster
toe-in or toe-out front/rear
car balance (R-40 has excellent balance)
right tire combo for the track (shore number)
2. Lightweight Parts
graphite front/rear shock tower
LW front/rear shafts
LW chassis
LW titanium screws
LW side and steering brace
LW lower suspenion mounts (front)
LW 2 speed tranny
There are many other hop ups, but these will improve your cars performance in a way you won't believe
3. Aerodynamics
lola body with floating rear mount to improve downforce on the tires and not the rear suspension
try a dodge stratus aero body II (Hara uses it and many pro's)
I use a nissan 350z (great performance)
Also have a stratus aero II
4. Try to get the bearing set for the steering on the R-40
5. Like J-lock says, practice, practice and when you are done, practice some more. This might be one of the biggest weapons of all in r/c. If your car is not the fastest, but you can control it in order not to make mistakes you will be flawless on the track. There are many guys that are way faster than me with serpent impacts M2 on the track, yet I have better lap times with the R-40. This is because I practice every weekend, so practice a lot and you will see a big improvement.
I guess there are many other tips, which I might be forgetting, but I you do or get some of the parts I mentioned and practice a lot you'll be a top dog to watch out at your local track lol...
I hope I didn't offend anyone, this is just my opinion when it comes to improving the R-40 performance.
1. car set-up
ride height front/rear
right shocks and springs (stock work great)
camber front/rear
caster
toe-in or toe-out front/rear
car balance (R-40 has excellent balance)
right tire combo for the track (shore number)
2. Lightweight Parts
graphite front/rear shock tower
LW front/rear shafts
LW chassis
LW titanium screws
LW side and steering brace
LW lower suspenion mounts (front)
LW 2 speed tranny
There are many other hop ups, but these will improve your cars performance in a way you won't believe
3. Aerodynamics
lola body with floating rear mount to improve downforce on the tires and not the rear suspension
try a dodge stratus aero body II (Hara uses it and many pro's)
I use a nissan 350z (great performance)
Also have a stratus aero II
4. Try to get the bearing set for the steering on the R-40
5. Like J-lock says, practice, practice and when you are done, practice some more. This might be one of the biggest weapons of all in r/c. If your car is not the fastest, but you can control it in order not to make mistakes you will be flawless on the track. There are many guys that are way faster than me with serpent impacts M2 on the track, yet I have better lap times with the R-40. This is because I practice every weekend, so practice a lot and you will see a big improvement.
I guess there are many other tips, which I might be forgetting, but I you do or get some of the parts I mentioned and practice a lot you'll be a top dog to watch out at your local track lol...
I hope I didn't offend anyone, this is just my opinion when it comes to improving the R-40 performance.
04-14-2005, 08:08 AM
#5763
Thanks for the big assist Klanderman. I am glad that you put more emphasis on practicing. That is how I got better. At one point, I did not miss an on-road race in my area for a year. When I was not racing, I practiced with cones and race dots in the nearest parking lot I could find. I did figure eights for minutes on end. I did the penny spot at the cone to see if I could hit the turn around the cone at the same spot minutes on end. I even mixed a little off-road racing in there to incorporate some driving skills there into my on-road racing and vice versa. But like you expanded on, it take well more than a couple of parts to improve performance.
If your car is not set up properly, as Klanderman stated, no amount of lightweight or hop-up parts will help. And that is set up for the track and conditions and tweak that setup as track conditions change. Keep setup sheets for the different tracks and, if possible, different conditions so that you will have a reference to go by.
On a side note, performance hop-ups will help your car more than "eye candy" hop-ups. Don't be enticed by the "purple this and blue that" hop-ups that no one will see unless you have your body off your car when it is static in the pits. Concentrate more on the lightweight gears, better bearing, and hop-ups to lighten the car's overall weight (on heavier cars) or decrease the amount of rotating mass (lightweight gears, hollow shafts). Just another $0.02 from me.
If your car is not set up properly, as Klanderman stated, no amount of lightweight or hop-up parts will help. And that is set up for the track and conditions and tweak that setup as track conditions change. Keep setup sheets for the different tracks and, if possible, different conditions so that you will have a reference to go by.
On a side note, performance hop-ups will help your car more than "eye candy" hop-ups. Don't be enticed by the "purple this and blue that" hop-ups that no one will see unless you have your body off your car when it is static in the pits. Concentrate more on the lightweight gears, better bearing, and hop-ups to lighten the car's overall weight (on heavier cars) or decrease the amount of rotating mass (lightweight gears, hollow shafts). Just another $0.02 from me.
04-14-2005, 08:11 AM
#5764
Originally posted by regg151
I finnally got to test out my R40 with the lt wt 2speed and I was impressed with the difference. car accellerates like a bat outta hell and the top end is much improved. had the r40 screaming around the parking lot drew a small crowd of onlookers. was having a blast even had another guy show up with his car, as he's asking me what frequbcy i'm on his impatient son deceides it's his job to ruin my day. Kid turns on his fathers transmitter go figure were on the same channel sending my car smashing into the curb headon at well over 40mph
to add insult the guy takes off while i'm retreiving my wreaked car
so far my super chassie is badly bent
hingepins bent
both lower arms busted
front diff busted
front bulkhead broken
graphite front shock tower busted
aluminim hingpinsupport bent
both front rims cracked
1 busted axle
4 bent pivot balls
2 busted wheel hubs
and the single most surprising thing is that the stock hpi plastic shocks are both still intact and in fine working order.
so far i'm looking at about 150$ in damage thanks to an impataient kid.
I finnally got to test out my R40 with the lt wt 2speed and I was impressed with the difference. car accellerates like a bat outta hell and the top end is much improved. had the r40 screaming around the parking lot drew a small crowd of onlookers. was having a blast even had another guy show up with his car, as he's asking me what frequbcy i'm on his impatient son deceides it's his job to ruin my day. Kid turns on his fathers transmitter go figure were on the same channel sending my car smashing into the curb headon at well over 40mph
to add insult the guy takes off while i'm retreiving my wreaked car
so far my super chassie is badly bent
hingepins bent
both lower arms busted
front diff busted
front bulkhead broken
graphite front shock tower busted
aluminim hingpinsupport bent
both front rims cracked
1 busted axle
4 bent pivot balls
2 busted wheel hubs
and the single most surprising thing is that the stock hpi plastic shocks are both still intact and in fine working order.
so far i'm looking at about 150$ in damage thanks to an impataient kid.
Also do you have a fail-safe unit. I would invest in one of those.
Sorry to hear about that. If anything they offer the full hara upgrade kit over in asia, minus the titanium screw kit. That would get you above and beyond your current setup. And might not cost too much more. BTW this is not the 2004 Edition kit im talking about. Its a parts package to upgrade exsisting R40's.
Just a thought. Take care.
04-14-2005, 08:15 AM
#5765
regg151,
As AI stated, a fail-safe is well worth the money. Now that they are getting cheaper and smaller, invest in one. If you have a radio that can use the Spektrum system, go that route and you will not have a problem with frequence conflict again. Did the father of the kid offer to assist in helping to compensate you for the damaged parts that you need to replace?
As AI stated, a fail-safe is well worth the money. Now that they are getting cheaper and smaller, invest in one. If you have a radio that can use the Spektrum system, go that route and you will not have a problem with frequence conflict again. Did the father of the kid offer to assist in helping to compensate you for the damaged parts that you need to replace?
04-14-2005, 08:18 AM
#5766
Also a little update on my car. I ordered the RD Logics Turbo II Pipe. Got it for $53 dollars shipped.... Bah and my lhs was asking $75. I cant believe they want full MSRP.
As soon as I get this sucker to my house Im polishing it....ive got this amazing polish that takes metal to another level. Then im installing it right away and taking many many pics.
I also will be receiving......... my new receiver today - dr.evil. So this car should be ready for some running soon. Cant wait. Now I dont have to swap receivers around...
Also what is a good bearing kit for the R40. Doesnt seem like they offer what they used to for the RS4-2 chassis. I know I got a teflon sealed bearing kit from I believe duratraxx for pretty cheap.
I cant seem to find really anything. Im trying to prepare for the HPI Challenge here in Orlando. I hope to have a good setup.
I might even bring my racer2 just to mess with people. Im thinking with all the stuff on that car. It might run comparible, just that .12 cv-r powerplant isnt going to help it much with power.
As soon as I get this sucker to my house Im polishing it....ive got this amazing polish that takes metal to another level. Then im installing it right away and taking many many pics.
I also will be receiving......... my new receiver today - dr.evil. So this car should be ready for some running soon. Cant wait. Now I dont have to swap receivers around...
Also what is a good bearing kit for the R40. Doesnt seem like they offer what they used to for the RS4-2 chassis. I know I got a teflon sealed bearing kit from I believe duratraxx for pretty cheap.
I cant seem to find really anything. Im trying to prepare for the HPI Challenge here in Orlando. I hope to have a good setup.
I might even bring my racer2 just to mess with people. Im thinking with all the stuff on that car. It might run comparible, just that .12 cv-r powerplant isnt going to help it much with power.
04-14-2005, 08:21 AM
#5767
Originally posted by JLock
regg151,
As AI stated, a fail-safe is well worth the money. Now that they are getting cheaper and smaller, invest in one. If you have a radio that can use the Spektrum system, go that route and you will not have a problem with frequence conflict again. Did the father of the kid offer to assist in helping to compensate you for the damaged parts that you need to replace?
regg151,
As AI stated, a fail-safe is well worth the money. Now that they are getting cheaper and smaller, invest in one. If you have a radio that can use the Spektrum system, go that route and you will not have a problem with frequence conflict again. Did the father of the kid offer to assist in helping to compensate you for the damaged parts that you need to replace?
Regg check it out, did some homework for you, so that next time you r car won't have a chance to go midevil on you... check this link
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...fe&FVPROFIL=++
04-14-2005, 08:30 AM
#5768
Originally posted by JLock
regg151,
As AI stated, a fail-safe is well worth the money. Now that they are getting cheaper and smaller, invest in one. If you have a radio that can use the Spektrum system, go that route and you will not have a problem with frequence conflict again. Did the father of the kid offer to assist in helping to compensate you for the damaged parts that you need to replace?
regg151,
As AI stated, a fail-safe is well worth the money. Now that they are getting cheaper and smaller, invest in one. If you have a radio that can use the Spektrum system, go that route and you will not have a problem with frequence conflict again. Did the father of the kid offer to assist in helping to compensate you for the damaged parts that you need to replace?
EDIT: Interesting just saw in that link there are futaba fail-safes. Mine seems to be discontinued. The newer ones look a bit larger and uglier....interesting. Nevermind, its actually a different company.
The venom fail-safe I think its pretty small and a good price.
04-14-2005, 08:39 AM
#5769
Originally posted by Artificial-I
Yeah my more exspensive futaba one. Is ultra small and costed maybe $30 dollars.
EDIT: Interesting just saw in that link there are futaba fail-safes. Mine seems to be discontinued. The newer ones look a bit larger and uglier....interesting. Nevermind, its actually a different company.
The venom fail-safe I think its pretty small and a good price.
Yeah my more exspensive futaba one. Is ultra small and costed maybe $30 dollars.
EDIT: Interesting just saw in that link there are futaba fail-safes. Mine seems to be discontinued. The newer ones look a bit larger and uglier....interesting. Nevermind, its actually a different company.
The venom fail-safe I think its pretty small and a good price.
04-14-2005, 08:49 AM
#5770
hey you guys what type of shock oil do you guy's use? is it in the 30-35wt? thats what I use team associated, but was wondering if there is a better one there that someone knows about...
04-14-2005, 08:49 AM
#5771
Originally posted by Artificial-I
Yeah my more exspensive futaba one. Is ultra small and costed maybe $30 dollars.
EDIT: Interesting just saw in that link there are futaba fail-safes. Mine seems to be discontinued. The newer ones look a bit larger and uglier....interesting. Nevermind, its actually a different company.
The venom fail-safe I think its pretty small and a good price.
Yeah my more exspensive futaba one. Is ultra small and costed maybe $30 dollars.
EDIT: Interesting just saw in that link there are futaba fail-safes. Mine seems to be discontinued. The newer ones look a bit larger and uglier....interesting. Nevermind, its actually a different company.
The venom fail-safe I think its pretty small and a good price.
04-14-2005, 08:53 AM
#5772
Originally posted by KLANDERMAN
hey you guys what type of shock oil do you guy's use? is it in the 30-35wt? thats what I use team associated, but was wondering if there is a better one there that someone knows about...
hey you guys what type of shock oil do you guy's use? is it in the 30-35wt? thats what I use team associated, but was wondering if there is a better one there that someone knows about...
Associated, Losi, Ofna, and Mugen are all pretty good brands (I use Losi oils). I think the AE and Losi oils are a bit cheaper than the Ofna and Mugen oil though.
04-14-2005, 08:57 AM
#5773
Originally posted by JLock
I personally use between 40wt and 60 wt shock oils. Anything under 40wt is too light for me and I consider that electric off-road shock oil. Associated, Losi, Ofna, and Mugen are all pretty good brands (I use Losi oils). I think the AE and Losi oils are a bit cheaper than the Ofna and Mugen oil though.
I personally use between 40wt and 60 wt shock oils. Anything under 40wt is too light for me and I consider that electric off-road shock oil.
Associated, Losi, Ofna, and Mugen are all pretty good brands (I use Losi oils). I think the AE and Losi oils are a bit cheaper than the Ofna and Mugen oil though.
I'm getting ready to order some parts from towers, thatoil is something I will definately try, on my R-40 I still have the same shock oil that it came with, but can't remember what wt it was???
oh well I'll have to try that losi oil
thanx...
Gonna go to the LHS friday or someday to go pick them up! WOOHOO. MY 8th buggy parts are in also.
04-14-2005, 12:52 PM
#5775
Originally posted by Artificial-I
Damn that made me mad just reading that. I feel your pain. That stupid father should have told the kid dont turn on the trans...or took it along with him.
Also do you have a fail-safe unit. I would invest in one of those.
Sorry to hear about that. If anything they offer the full hara upgrade kit over in asia, minus the titanium screw kit. That would get you above and beyond your current setup. And might not cost too much more.
Damn that made me mad just reading that. I feel your pain. That stupid father should have told the kid dont turn on the trans...or took it along with him.
Also do you have a fail-safe unit. I would invest in one of those.
Sorry to hear about that. If anything they offer the full hara upgrade kit over in asia, minus the titanium screw kit. That would get you above and beyond your current setup. And might not cost too much more.
yea the failsafe was installed and working. I was in the process of adjusting the breaks when they showed up. it had just enough to slow it down but not enough to bring it to a quick stop.
the hara upgrade sounds good but I have most of the parts to get it running again except for the lw chassie it's back to stock for now.