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Old 04-13-2005, 03:10 PM   #5731
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another shot...
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Old 04-13-2005, 03:11 PM   #5732
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last one...

sorry about my car been so dirty, but hadn't have time to clean it...
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Old 04-13-2005, 04:46 PM   #5733
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Klander now you need to put that serpent crash in slow motion.
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Old 04-13-2005, 05:51 PM   #5734
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Angry

I finnally got to test out my R40 with the lt wt 2speed and I was impressed with the difference. car accellerates like a bat outta hell and the top end is much improved. had the r40 screaming around the parking lot drew a small crowd of onlookers. was having a blast even had another guy show up with his car, as he's asking me what frequbcy i'm on his impatient son deceides it's his job to ruin my day. Kid turns on his fathers transmitter go figure were on the same channel sending my car smashing into the curb headon at well over 40mph

to add insult the guy takes off while i'm retreiving my wreaked car

so far my super chassie is badly bent
hingepins bent
both lower arms busted
front diff busted
front bulkhead broken
graphite front shock tower busted
aluminim hingpinsupport bent
both front rims cracked
1 busted axle
4 bent pivot balls
2 busted wheel hubs
and the single most surprising thing is that the stock hpi plastic shocks are both still intact and in fine working order.

so far i'm looking at about 150$ in damage thanks to an impataient kid.
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Old 04-13-2005, 05:57 PM   #5735
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Default R40 4 SALE

$125 plus shiping pm if interested
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Old 04-13-2005, 06:06 PM   #5736
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Ida kicked the little F-ers ass. Anyway 20 smoke is the r40 stock. Does it have any hopups. Its just a roller right.
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Old 04-13-2005, 06:38 PM   #5737
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Quote:
Originally posted by regg151
I finnally got to test out my R40 with the lt wt 2speed and I was impressed with the difference. car accellerates like a bat outta hell and the top end is much improved. had the r40 screaming around the parking lot drew a small crowd of onlookers. was having a blast even had another guy show up with his car, as he's asking me what frequbcy i'm on his impatient son deceides it's his job to ruin my day. Kid turns on his fathers transmitter go figure were on the same channel sending my car smashing into the curb headon at well over 40mph

to add insult the guy takes off while i'm retreiving my wreaked car

so far my super chassie is badly bent
hingepins bent
both lower arms busted
front diff busted
front bulkhead broken
graphite front shock tower busted
aluminim hingpinsupport bent
both front rims cracked
1 busted axle
4 bent pivot balls
2 busted wheel hubs
and the single most surprising thing is that the stock hpi plastic shocks are both still intact and in fine working order.

so far i'm looking at about 150$ in damage thanks to an impataient kid.
Man that sucks!!!
Maybe you can get 20 smoke to sell you his car...
If I was u Id take the chassis apart and try to find some way to rectify it because that can mess up your configuration, the least you can do is go back to the stock chassis in the meantime

Last edited by KLANDERMAN; 04-13-2005 at 06:54 PM.
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Old 04-13-2005, 06:41 PM   #5738
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Quote:
Originally posted by nsxshogun
Klander now you need to put that serpent crash in slow motion.
i will try to find it in one of my tapes to put that part in slow motion lol... I'll send it to you as soon as I find it ok
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Old 04-13-2005, 06:58 PM   #5739
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Klan the exchange rate of sg dollar to us dollar should be 1.6.
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Old 04-13-2005, 07:08 PM   #5740
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so your car was around $400 USD with all the extras... That's not a bad deal!
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Old 04-13-2005, 07:10 PM   #5741
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Quote:
Originally posted by KLANDERMAN
Man that sucks!!!
Maybe you can get 20 smoke to sell you his car...
If I was u Id take the chassis apart and try to find some way to rectify it because that can mess up your configuration, the least you can do is go back to the stock chassis in the meantime
I checked my parts box I have everything except the hingpins and the holder and of course the lw chassie.
yea for now it'll be the stock chassie till I can get another lw chassie at the end of the season most likely.

either way I won't be able to race this sunday since not 1 of the 4 LHS stocks parts for the R40
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Old 04-13-2005, 07:14 PM   #5742
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Quote:
Originally posted by gibbous
Hmm, I was told if I just used a heavier 87103 (the spring that goes around the shaft), I wouldn't need to use the o-spring....
I don't want to start an argument, but I did not use the o-spring. The only thing you need to make sure is the clutch end play is less then 0.5mm, so the clutch weights can be pushed back to the center of the flywheel. If you don't use o-spring and you have exceed clutch endplay, then, the clutch weights might stick on the edge of the flywheel and it won't come back to the center. Without the o-spring, you need to tighten the adjustable nut(#87095) abit more because the clutch will engage abit earlier. I once broke the o-spring during the race so I didn't really trust it. Besides, without the o-spring, the clutch is lighter. I have tried using only 2 clutch weights instead of 4. the clutch engagement was not consistant, although I reduced some weight off the clutch and got more punch.

Let me explain how I adjust my centax.

First of all, I use some shims between the adjustable nut(#87095) and the inside clutch bearing(#B018 or #B029). So that the clutch bell will not engage/rub the clutch shoe, even when you try to use your fingers pushing down the clutch bell, it will not rub the clutch shoe. But remember don't shim it too much, or your clutch will never get fully engaged. The reason to shim it here is to let the clutch bell fully disengage when idling or letting off throttle. you will also get better gas milage, and more steady idling.

Second, I use shims between the thrust bearing and the flanged clutch bearing so that the clutch end play is only 0.2-0.4mm. If you have too much endplay, the clutch will never get fully engaged and slipping clutch will over heat the engine, wear out the clutch shoe, and kill both low end punch and top speed.

Finally, adjust the nut(#87095) to set the engagement to you like it.

Note 1: Mugen grey or red clutch shoe is better than the stock R40 one, try the grey one first. But a little modification on the shoe is needed.
Note 2: Trim those 4 pins on the flywheel off abit, say 1mm off. Those pins will rub the clutch bell when the clutch shoe has worn out.

Gibbous, let me know when you will go the the track. I can help you dial in and setup your car.
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Old 04-13-2005, 07:24 PM   #5743
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Quote:
Originally posted by wangcc61
I don't want to start an argument, but I did not use the o-spring. The only thing you need to make sure is the clutch end play is less then 0.5mm, so the clutch weights can be pushed back to the center of the flywheel. If you don't use o-spring and you have exceed clutch endplay, then, the clutch weights might stick on the edge of the flywheel and it won't come back to the center. Without the o-spring, you need to tighten the adjustable nut(#87095) abit more because the clutch will engage abit earlier. I once broke the o-spring during the race so I didn't really trust it. Besides, without the o-spring, the clutch is lighter. I have tried using only 2 clutch weights instead of 4. the clutch engagement was not consistant, although I reduced some weight off the clutch and got more punch.

Let me explain how I adjust my centax.

First of all, I use some shims between the adjustable nut(#87095) and the inside clutch bearing(#B018 or #B029). So that the clutch bell will not engage/rub the clutch shoe, even when you try to use your fingers pushing down the clutch bell, it will not rub the clutch shoe. But remember don't shim it too much, or your clutch will never get fully engaged. The reason to shim it here is to let the clutch bell fully disengage when idling or letting off throttle. you will also get better gas milage, and more steady idling.

Second, I use shims between the thrust bearing and the flanged clutch bearing so that the clutch end play is only 0.2-0.4mm. If you have too much endplay, the clutch will never get fully engaged and slipping clutch will over heat the engine, wear out the clutch shoe, and kill both low end punch and top speed.

Finally, adjust the nut(#87095) to set the engagement to you like it.

Note 1: Mugen grey or red clutch shoe is better than the stock R40 one, try the grey one first. But a little modification on the shoe is needed.
Note 2: Trim those 4 pins on the flywheel off abit, say 1mm off. Those pins will rub the clutch bell when the clutch shoe has worn out.

Gibbous, let me know when you will go the the track. I can help you dial in and setup your car.

wangcc61

I'm glad there is some else that can vouch taking out the o ring... I haven't tried that and I'll surely try it. In other words thanx for the advice and if there is some other experiment that you have tried before, let me know ok
later
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Old 04-13-2005, 08:36 PM   #5744
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Sry to hear that Regg. Guess we both got to look into reparing parts .

Klander- Yeah that would be cool, but I wouldn't go with the HPI Proceed. The MRX4 will be a better ride. I'm still debating on it.
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Old 04-13-2005, 10:21 PM   #5745
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Quote:
Originally posted by HarKonnenD
Sry to hear that Regg. Guess we both got to look into reparing parts .

Klander- Yeah that would be cool, but I wouldn't go with the HPI Proceed. The MRX4 will be a better ride. I'm still debating on it.
HARK my problems is that tower's does have the parts for the proceed and I don't know if they have parts for the MRX4, what brand is that?
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