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Old 04-12-2005, 08:30 AM   #5656
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Quote:
Originally posted by Artificial-I
Yeah not only that with sometimes too short of a line the pulsing also makes the fuel foam. You can always try revving the car in front of you and seeing if this is causing the top to loose a little gas.

Watch for any of these signs. I normally try to make the fuel line the same on both sides and give a good amount of room.

A good example of fuel tubing length and use is haras R40.

http://www.superhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=218514

Just about everything on his car is there. As well as some nice chassis shots. Im going to be mimicking his car as much as possible.

Either that or will be buying the 2004 edition kit soon.
I will definately try longer tubbing, thanx you guys...
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Old 04-12-2005, 08:31 AM   #5657
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Default Re: R40

Quote:
Originally posted by NovaKing
last pic...
nice shots, lets see some shots with the body on
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Old 04-12-2005, 08:43 AM   #5658
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Default Re: R40

Quote:
Originally posted by NovaKing
here got some pic of my R40...
I see a black object on the screen? I guess it could be an r40.

Yeah next time remember the golden rules of photography.

Light , Focus , Center Object and click. If you dont have light then bump up the exposure and get a tripod.

Or simply, take the car outside on a sunny day.
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Old 04-12-2005, 09:02 AM   #5659
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Quote:
Originally posted by Artificial-I
I see a black object on the screen? I guess it could be an r40.

Yeah next time remember the golden rules of photography.

Light , Focus , Center Object and click. If you dont have light then bump up the exposure and get a tripod.

Or simply, take the car outside on a sunny day.
Hey I noticed you own a PROCEED, Im thinking of going 1/8 racing, but it's too expensive, so I'll race this year with the R-40, but I want to buy a PROCEED, can you show me pictures of your car?
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Old 04-12-2005, 09:07 AM   #5660
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Default Re: R40 clutch spring problem

Quote:
Originally posted by zoloft
my R40 clutch spring giving me problem.car almost not moving even at full throttle. open up the clutch bell the spring is moving closer to the flywheel. restrore it to original position 0.5-0.8 mm according to manual. after a few run still the same thing happen again. Pls help !


regards,
azizi
If the clutch nut was loose the car wouldn't even start. I never had a problem with my adjuster nut moving or clutch nut. Simply tighten the clutch nut nice and firm. Doing this, you will only need very little or no threadlock. The manual is right about the spacers though. Use those tiny shims before the thrust bearing washers so you when you attach everything the CB should only move out a tiny lil bit when you tug on it.
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Old 04-12-2005, 09:09 AM   #5661
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Klander- The cheap way I found to get into 8th onroad is that PRP onroad car. However, some places aren't big on parts. I said NVM and just stay with the R40. I keep getting tempted into 8th onroad, but without a real car and the cost for an 8th is crazy. All the upgrades I got for the R40 are reasonably priced so thats fine for me.
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Old 04-12-2005, 09:13 AM   #5662
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Quote:
Originally posted by HarKonnenD
Klander- The cheap way I found to get into 8th onroad is that PRP onroad car. However, some places aren't big on parts. I said NVM and just stay with the R40. I keep getting tempted into 8th onroad, but without a real car and the cost for an 8th is crazy. All the upgrades I got for the R40 are reasonably priced so thats fine for me.
I guess you are right... I just sometimes wish to buy one just to bash around because of it's masive speeds, but I guess it can wait for later... lol
Hark I'll try to send you a video clip of my R-40 with the astra body, I;m bashing infront of my house, but I lost the clutch weights and spring and didn't even notice, I thought the clutch had gone loose because the screws was a bit unscrewed...
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Old 04-12-2005, 09:18 AM   #5663
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For those of you who still don't have the HPI oficial setup sheet to tune your car.... well here you go

http://hpiracing.com/graphics/setup/r40blank.pdf
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Old 04-12-2005, 09:19 AM   #5664
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Yeah, it is awesome. Eh, to save my time, I guess the R40 would be nice with some faster motor .
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Old 04-12-2005, 09:26 AM   #5665
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yep my lola body is on it's way, maybe then we can get the .18tz to kick some 1/8 scale but lol....
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Old 04-12-2005, 09:50 AM   #5666
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Hmm probably can. If you can keep you tires to the ground and have the clutch to engage properly you'll be set. BTW, send me the vid. I'll be waiting to see it .
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Old 04-12-2005, 10:01 AM   #5667
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HARK I'll send you the video in a min...
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Old 04-12-2005, 11:08 AM   #5668
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OK I guess a min is up, because it's after 1pm.
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Old 04-12-2005, 11:25 AM   #5669
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Hey fellow r40ers, I'm getting close. I just need the right freakin' clutch bell bearing and I can start breaking in. I know some of you think I should shim the motor up, but I did. Nothing I could do about that. I don't have money for a new motor yet! The yokomo header works great, and after shimming up, there's enough clearance above the pulley.

I have a question, how have you guys routed your wiring? I have mine pretty close to my servo horn, and I'm worried about wearing through the wires.

Also what do you guys like to use for your throttle/brake servo?
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Old 04-12-2005, 12:14 PM   #5670
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Quote:
Originally posted by gibbous
Hey fellow r40ers, I'm getting close. I just need the right freakin' clutch bell bearing and I can start breaking in. I know some of you think I should shim the motor up, but I did. Nothing I could do about that. I don't have money for a new motor yet! The yokomo header works great, and after shimming up, there's enough clearance above the pulley.

I have a question, how have you guys routed your wiring? I have mine pretty close to my servo horn, and I'm worried about wearing through the wires.

Also what do you guys like to use for your throttle/brake servo?
I'll send you a pic after lunch to show you me wireing, mine is close to the servo horn and there is no wear or tear, about the servo I use a futaba servo and it works ok
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