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Old 03-12-2005, 01:03 AM   #4786
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that body is sweet straight is 250+feet long
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Old 03-12-2005, 01:06 AM   #4787
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as far as the one way yea in reg diff case, track looks smooooth i dont have the car yet the guy i am buying it from he shipping it to me on monday it only has had 3 tanks of gas through the car , yes stock gear on clutch bell and gearing
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Old 03-12-2005, 01:07 AM   #4788
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it is comming with the os tr but i dont knwo if it is going to be fastenough vs the rb's and novarossies but i am going to try it out tho .... i have a good 200 oz servo i am going to out in it lol out of my 1/8 buggy
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Old 03-12-2005, 01:09 AM   #4789
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danm u kicking serpent butt's lol with .18's i really wnat to get a mt 12 mod for the car but i got to learn how to drive it frst tho..
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Old 03-12-2005, 04:36 AM   #4790
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Default Re: R40 durability

Quote:
Originally posted by frederic
Guys, will you help me on this. I was told that R40's plastic
parts are brittle. They break easily. Specially the front
arms. Is this true? Any comments?
thats a bunch of crap....I have the HPI Japan only graphite arms on mine,and I've never even broken those.....and I've hit hard enough to break the pivit balls and axles.....the std plastic parts are even stronger..if anything,the plastic in the car is a little soft.....but you can usually take it apart 10 times before a screw starts to strip...
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Old 03-12-2005, 08:42 AM   #4791
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BOWTIE1

if the track isn't bumpy try to lower your car as low as posible. around 4mm front 5 mm rear.
camber helps you in corners, so you want around 2 to 2.5 negative camber in the front and 1 to 2 negative camber in the rear. Toe in, I use no toe in the front and around 2 to 2.5 toe in in the rear. when it comes to tires, I use 40 shore front and 35 shore rear.
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Old 03-12-2005, 08:50 AM   #4792
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make sure that your shifting point is good for the track. You want your engine to deliver 85% to 90% of screaming power before the straight is gone and when it come to clutchbells I use the red ones. 17T + 48 and 20T + 45 which both equal 65. This gives me less spin when coming out of the turns.
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Old 03-12-2005, 09:03 AM   #4793
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ok kool as soon as i get it ill try to get a good set on it what color springs u run front and rear and what shock oil? thanks
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Old 03-12-2005, 09:11 AM   #4794
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so, how much the body effect the way the car bandles any?
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Old 03-12-2005, 09:17 AM   #4795
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aerodinamics helps a lot, I didn't thinks so at first, but it does. I race with the nissan 350z, but bash around with a variety to try a see any difference.
when it comes to suspension, I use the stock ones and the oil is 70wt. stock also.
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Old 03-12-2005, 09:26 AM   #4796
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ok kool hopefuly after i get the car this next week and get it toghter some1 at the track will be willing to melp me some lol and help me get a set up for the track lol but u r helping me get a starting set up tho... now if he os tr will be good for it ill be ol fo a bit
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Old 03-12-2005, 09:32 AM   #4797
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that engine works well. just make sure you have a good setup and youll be fine.

For the body Wind resistance is a good thing as it provides the downforce you need to keep the car from becoming a plane. The slope of the body lines determines where and how much down force you can get. The rear wing provides the rear downforce while the slope of the grill section and hood along with the window plays a role in front end downforce.
try a dodge stratus aero 2 body, most pro use that one
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Old 03-12-2005, 09:48 AM   #4798
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ok kool ill get 1 of them post a pic of your is ya would i would like to see it
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Old 03-12-2005, 10:52 AM   #4799
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this is the one I race with. Nissan 350z
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File Type: gif nissan-350-web.gif (171.5 KB, 43 views)
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Old 03-12-2005, 10:57 AM   #4800
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sweet looking u paint it your slef? looks good
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