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Old 01-23-2005, 07:49 PM   #4321
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Default New Belts

Quote:
Originally posted by goldenboy
are they better?
It depends.. I wouldn't use the new belts if you run on an unprepared surface. Small pebbles/rocks can quickly destroy the new belts. The benefit is they don't stretch and are lower friction allowing for quicker acceleration and consistency.
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Old 01-24-2005, 10:06 AM   #4322
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Default Re: New Belts

Thad,
Are the belts going to be released here in the US? It sure would be nice to be able to get all those nice HPI japan options through the LHS.

Quote:
Originally posted by Thad Garner
It depends.. I wouldn't use the new belts if you run on an unprepared surface. Small pebbles/rocks can quickly destroy the new belts. The benefit is they don't stretch and are lower friction allowing for quicker acceleration and consistency.
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Old 01-24-2005, 10:08 AM   #4323
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Default good deal??

Hey guys is this a good deal? opinions?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW
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Old 01-24-2005, 12:27 PM   #4324
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Default ATTEN. Floyd Bennett Field Racers

Anyone taking their cars upto "The Bennett"? I hope to journey up there this summer.
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Old 01-24-2005, 01:01 PM   #4325
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Default Re: good deal??

Quote:
Originally posted by Marcos.J
Hey guys is this a good deal? opinions?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...sPageName=WDVW
Used R40's on EBAY typically sell for $175 +/- $15. So it is right in-line. GO for it.
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Old 01-25-2005, 02:43 PM   #4326
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Default Rear diff failure ( got stuck!)

HEy you guys! This past sunday I was racing with my friends and the R-40's performance was great... I was kicking everyone butt and everything was fine until my rear diff locked out. It felt like if it had posi traction, when I tried rotating one wheel left, I was expecting to see the right wheel go right, but instead it went the left like the other one... Has anyone had trouble with this? I took it apart and lubed it up again and its working fine. Any suggestions?
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Old 01-25-2005, 02:44 PM   #4327
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Default Rear diff failure ( got stuck!)

HEy you guys! This past sunday I was racing with my friends and the R-40's performance was great... I was kicking everyone's butt and everything was fine until my rear diff locked out. It felt like if it had posi traction, when I tried rotating one wheel left, I was expecting to see the right wheel go right, but instead it went the left like the other one... Has anyone had trouble with this? I took it apart and lubed it up again and its working fine. Any suggestions?
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Old 01-25-2005, 02:48 PM   #4328
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Default

You are running the aluminum diff casing right? Sounds like the gears arn't aligning correctly causing them to jamb. You might want to check the inside of the casing where the gear shafts seats and make sure its not too loose. Also check the gears for wear.

Are you running 4 gears?
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Old 01-25-2005, 02:51 PM   #4329
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Thanks!!!
Yes, I'm running with the aluminum diff and it's 4 gears, they are brand new, but I'll check to see if they are loose or something. If they were loose, what can I do?
Another thing is the middle belt. Using the 23T on the front works fine, when I was going to try the 22T, the belt felt too loose, so I went ahead and replaced the belt with a new one, but it still felt too loose, what can I do?
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Old 01-25-2005, 03:01 PM   #4330
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Using the smaller gear will always make your belt looser. Just tighten up your tensioner more. You can enlarge the slot so you get more adjustment too. As long as the belt doesn't skip or fall off, its good. The electric guys run really loose belts because it reduces resistance and friction.
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Old 01-25-2005, 03:06 PM   #4331
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Ok, i'll try to enlarge the hole to tension it a bit more. I'm hoping that with the 22T the front wheels will spin more and the car won't slide because of the traction in the front. I hpe my theory is correct, but then again maybe the car was slipping the rear because of the lock up...
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Old 01-25-2005, 03:41 PM   #4332
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Overdriving the front wheels will cause the rear to slide more. Having the rear diff locked up will also cause the rear end to slide as well.
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Old 01-25-2005, 03:48 PM   #4333
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Rapid Roy
Overdriving the front wheels will cause the rear to slide more. Having the rear diff locked up will also cause the rear end to slide as well.
RR - explain that please... (1st part)
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Old 01-25-2005, 05:04 PM   #4334
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Get the graphite side flex brace it helps with the belt a little and does help handeling to
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Old 01-25-2005, 07:55 PM   #4335
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Quote:
Originally posted by JAG Racing
RR - explain that please... (1st part)
Using the 22T pulley instead of the stock 23T pulley alters the front pulley drive ratio and gives front overdrive i.e. front wheels rotate more times than the rear for a certain amount of engine rotation.

The rear part of the car will have a stock pulley drive ratio of 2.421 while the front will have a pulley drive ratio altered to 2.316 with the 22T front side pulley.

If you run equal front and rear tires with this 22T side pulley, the front will have more tire rollout than the rear i.e. you get front overdrive or in layman's terms the front pulling the rear. Some like to drive the car like this in low traction and tight tracks but sometimes too much will make the rear end loose. Front belt also gets strained more.

In order to run equal front and rear rollout i.e. 1:1 overdrive, you need to use about 2.5 mm smaller front tire diameter than the rear. Say if you use 60 mm for the front tires, you need to use about 62.5 mm for the rears...

Using smaller front tires in a split like this has it's benefits. Firstly, the front rollcenter gets slightly higher than before at the same ride height which makes the car more nimble at a given steering input. Secondly, smaller tires solves traction rolling problems and tire chunking. Thirdly, it still gives you adequate tire rollout (top speed) at the back of the straight and at the same time permitting you to run smaller front tires.
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