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Old 12-30-2004, 02:09 PM   #4201
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Default Re: R40 Diet

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Originally posted by JAG Racing
OK - I am ready to roll into 2005 with the lighter R40. I am now weighing in at 1800 g even (race-ready) thanks to the super light-weight chassis and titanium screw kit and front spool diff. I already had the lw 2-speed, lw drive shafts, and lw battery.

This is 175 g under stock weight!
I weighed mine the other day race ready, 1775g race ready. Its a bit heavier than it used to be since I have added a few alloy bit.
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Old 12-30-2004, 02:11 PM   #4202
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Quote:
Originally posted by JAG Racing
JLock - Let me know how the 30k diff. oil in the rear works for you. I'll tell you how the front spool works too.

Last year I ran 100k in the front and nothing (light oil coating) in the rear. I also used blue permatex on the diff cases this time; got tired of the leaks.
The front spool works awesome!! I have been using it for a month or so. Kills off a fair bit of offpower steering, but it makes the car rock solid on power.

A oneway with 30K rear with 6 gear diff is a great setup for sweeping tracks, was using that the other day. 30K with 50K front on the other hand will likely be oversteery. Anyway let us know.
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Old 12-30-2004, 02:14 PM   #4203
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Default Re: Anybody want to take a stab??

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Originally posted by tjnmt
Quick Question for you you guys.

Currently running an R-40 with a siro evo 2 motor. ow tha problem has just started recently.
The problem is after every run I make the engagment of the clutch always backs out causing a later contact and causing a heat rise in the motor.
What that said it is wasting my time each and every time I run again because I have readjust the clutch.
Now for the cause, I think it's the spring that is wrong out, but I would like to get some input from you guys about this or point me in the right direction.

thanks a bunch
I have had the same thing happen. I dont know for sure what was rubbing the adjuster nut, probably the clutchbell. You need to use loctite or teflon tape on the clutch bolt to prevent the adjuster nut from moving. Once I used loctite it never moved again.
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Old 12-30-2004, 02:16 PM   #4204
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Quote:
Originally posted by Darkseid
What kind of lightweight batteries are you guys using? Are you building them yourselves, or are you buying prebuilt. Feel free to call suggest brand names.
I use the HPI one myself. Great quality sanyo cells that actually charge almost up to 800mah unlike some cheapo brands.
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Old 12-30-2004, 02:18 PM   #4205
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Thanks RR and AMG, I am already using the mugen grey shoes, I;ll take a look over the ass. and rebuild it up using locktite.
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Old 01-03-2005, 07:36 PM   #4206
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I need a good drag set up I have the yellow pinnons already and Ive ordered a Lola body from my LHS. What about set up rite now im running the stock set up and its doing good but is there anything better.
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Old 01-04-2005, 03:37 PM   #4207
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What should I use a front one way, diff, or should i order a solid axle. Also where should i put it.
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Old 01-04-2005, 06:33 PM   #4208
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Quote:
Originally posted by nsxshogun
What should I use a front one way, diff, or should i order a solid axle. Also where should i put it.
"Where should I put it?...." - confusing question to me. I'll attempt an answer though:

First off, if you are a Novice to intermediate racer, just stick with the differential which comes with the kit (easy to drive, and allows for better braking action ).

But if you are an expert driver -

One-way: Great for large tracks with wider sweeping turns. Great on-throttle steering at the cost of less braking action. The car takes more time to deccelerate compared to the differential or solid axle in other words. Some expert racers like to carry alot of speed into corners though, so they like it for this reason. Alot depends on your driving style as well.

Solid axle: Kind of a compromise between differential and a one-way because it gives you the same on-power steering as the one-way, BUT it also gives you better braking for quicker decceleration. Both of your front wheels rotate forward at the same velocity(same as one-way) so during a turn, one of your front tires is "loosing traction" so in affect you might feel a loss of off-power steering (going into a turn for example). But as you are leaving the corner this is where you will be able to accelerate better than a differential. Usually best to tighter/smaller tracks with lots of "hairpin turns".

So- all three choices have trade-offs and you'll have to apply the pros/cons to your track layout.

Differentials - Good stability through corners and good braking/accerleration; Good choice for beginner through intermediate racers.

Just my opinion... You might try just getting the solid axle for the front and see how it feels first. Nothing like trying it for yourself and it costs 1/2 of the one-way.


These items can be purchased at a variety of places, LHS, TowerHobbies, E*Bay, plus a dozen on-line retialers. ( I assumed you were asking where to get these parts)
Hope that helps -

Last edited by JAG Racing; 01-04-2005 at 09:45 PM.
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Old 01-04-2005, 09:50 PM   #4209
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Default R40 0.8 pitch pinion gear

Anyone know where to find a compatible pinion (1st gear) gear for the R40 0.8mm that provides higher ratio? The 20T x 12mm pinion gear is ok but I am looking for a 19T x 12mm or even 18T. Would a Mugen pinion work? Any other mfg's?

I race at a pretty small track. Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-04-2005, 11:38 PM   #4210
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Default Re: R40 0.8 pitch pinion gear

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Originally posted by JAG Racing
Anyone know where to find a compatible pinion (1st gear) gear for the R40 0.8mm that provides higher ratio? The 20T x 12mm pinion gear is ok but I am looking for a 19T x 12mm or even 18T. Would a Mugen pinion work? Any other mfg's?

I race at a pretty small track. Thanks in advance.
Not many manufacturers make a smaller one that I know of. They Kyosho pinions are a different shape, the Mugen ones are the right shape, but unsure whether they will fit the bell.

I am in the same dilema as you on one of my very small local tracks. Right now I am using the 1.0 module gearbox on this particular track, that is another option.
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Old 01-05-2005, 06:19 AM   #4211
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hey AMG.....How much fun is the Drift package?...how about a small review?...I figure,maybe I'll convert the EVO 3 I won the Challenge with to a drift car....
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Old 01-05-2005, 07:57 AM   #4212
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Quote:
Originally posted by JLock
Some are using the batteries that are now being used for the RC18t, Itsy-Bitsy Spyder, etc. while others are using the Mugen MTX3 5-cell AAA hump backs and either cutting the top out of the battery box or eliminating the box and shoe-gooing/taping/strapping them to the battery door. You can actually make a battery pack cheaper than buying a prebuilt one (I have made several and saved at least $7+ dollars per pack).
Thanks for the answer.

If you get a chance, could you post a pick of one that you've assembled. I'd defintely prefer to do that instead of buying one of those over priced assembled packs.

What cells (capacity wise, Ni-CD-or-Ni-MH) are you using. I haven't checked out rechargable AAA tech lately, so I have no idea what the capacity for those is up to now.
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Old 01-05-2005, 08:12 AM   #4213
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Quote:
Originally posted by Darkseid
Thanks for the answer.

If you get a chance, could you post a pick of one that you've assembled. I'd defintely prefer to do that instead of buying one of those over priced assembled packs.

What cells (capacity wise, Ni-CD-or-Ni-MH) are you using. I haven't checked out rechargable AAA tech lately, so I have no idea what the capacity for those is up to now.
The ones I have been using are the 730maH, nickel-metal batteries, the same ones that Mugen uses for their packs. There are slightly higher capacity AAA rechargables (around 850maH) but my local LHS's don't carry them.
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Old 01-05-2005, 08:37 AM   #4214
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Quote:
Originally posted by JLock
The ones I have been using are the 730maH, nickel-metal batteries, the same ones that Mugen uses for their packs. There are slightly higher capacity AAA rechargables (around 850maH) but my local LHS's don't carry them.
Thanks
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Old 01-05-2005, 01:01 PM   #4215
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Yea I have the one-way and I like the off power steering. But I haven't been the the track to test it yet. Ill probally try to pick up the solid axle and try that out. What about locking my diffs? Wouldnt that be the same as a solid axle.
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