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Old 12-27-2004, 01:12 AM   #4186
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Originally posted by Why Try?
Yes it does just built mine today very nice kit.
Missed you at brendale today, lets hit the concrete some time this week
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Old 12-27-2004, 10:42 AM   #4187
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Quick Question for you you guys.

Currently running an R-40 with a siro evo 2 motor. ow tha problem has just started recently.
The problem is after every run I make the engagment of the clutch always backs out causing a later contact and causing a heat rise in the motor.
What that said it is wasting my time each and every time I run again because I have readjust the clutch.
Now for the cause, I think it's the spring that is wrong out, but I would like to get some input from you guys about this or point me in the right direction.

thanks a bunch
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Old 12-27-2004, 11:47 AM   #4188
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Quote:
Originally posted by nsxshogun
Anyone want to take a shot at my steering problem? I also got a problem the rear hubs are rubbing on the insides of my rims real bad. They slow the car down and make groves all inside of the rim. I was thinking that it might be becuase my chassis is bent.
This is a common problem and has nothing to do with wheel offset or chassis tweak. You will have to sand the bottom of the hubs, where they are rubbing, a little to remedy this problem. Maybe HPI will, in future production runs of the hubs, make the necessary adjustments to resolve this issue. It happens with the stock HPI foams as well as with other tire brands of the same inner wheel diameter. Be sure to de-bur your parts as well, but sanding a little will take care of the problem.
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Old 12-27-2004, 04:36 PM   #4189
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Quote:
Originally posted by nsxshogun
Anyone want to take a shot at my steering problem? I also got a problem the rear hubs are rubbing on the insides of my rims real bad. They slow the car down and make groves all inside of the rim. I was thinking that it might be becuase my chassis is bent.
Your steering problem can be fixed easily. Just start taking apart the car. Try to isolate the problem. Start with removing the tie rods that connect the steering linkage to the steering knuckles. Then check to see that the knuckles are turning freely.

You get the idea? Just take the same approach to any problem on your car and you should be able to find any problem. Don't be lazy and try to find the problem just by looking at it or moving the parts around. You'll likely find a broken, bent or deformed part once you take things apart.

I also tried to help with the post at the top of the page. If that wasn't the problem, please reply. Otherwise it looks like you are ignoring my post and just repeating your question.
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Old 12-27-2004, 05:19 PM   #4190
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Quote:
Originally posted by nsxshogun
Anyone want to take a shot at my steering problem? I also got a problem the rear hubs are rubbing on the insides of my rims real bad. They slow the car down and make groves all inside of the rim. I was thinking that it might be becuase my chassis is bent.
Mine did the same thing when you take the hubs of the tree cut the tabs that stick down, ther is enough clearence with these wheels until you buy new tires should be alright
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Old 12-27-2004, 07:59 PM   #4191
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MAN i missed alot 2day. Yea I fixed my steering probem it ended up to be my servo not being centered. I de bured all the parts now i just need to find some sand paper.
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Old 12-30-2004, 07:41 AM   #4192
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Default R40 Diet

OK - I am ready to roll into 2005 with the lighter R40. I am now weighing in at 1800 g even (race-ready) thanks to the super light-weight chassis and titanium screw kit and front spool diff. I already had the lw 2-speed, lw drive shafts, and lw battery.

This is 175 g under stock weight!
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Old 12-30-2004, 08:13 AM   #4193
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JAG Racing,

Got mine ready to run more for 2005 as well. I have rebuilt the diffs using 30000wt oil in the rear and 50000wt oil in the front and sealing them with automotive gasket seal. I will be working on building a 6 gear diff for the rear and a spool diff for the front to experiment a bit more with the performance on medium to large tracks. Many of the screws have been replaced with hex-head titanium ones and I will be lightening up the car more as 2005 progresses.
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Old 12-30-2004, 08:50 AM   #4194
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Quote:
Originally posted by JLock
JAG Racing,

Got mine ready to run more for 2005 as well. I have rebuilt the diffs using 30000wt oil in the rear and 50000wt oil in the front and sealing them with automotive gasket seal. I will be working on building a 6 gear diff for the rear and a spool diff for the front to experiment a bit more with the performance on medium to large tracks. Many of the screws have been replaced with hex-head titanium ones and I will be lightening up the car more as 2005 progresses.
JLock - Let me know how the 30k diff. oil in the rear works for you. I'll tell you how the front spool works too.

Last year I ran 100k in the front and nothing (light oil coating) in the rear. I also used blue permatex on the diff cases this time; got tired of the leaks.
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Old 12-30-2004, 09:27 AM   #4195
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Default Anybody want to take a stab??

Quote:
Originally posted by tjnmt
Quick Question for you you guys.

Currently running an R-40 with a siro evo 2 motor. ow tha problem has just started recently.
The problem is after every run I make the engagment of the clutch always backs out causing a later contact and causing a heat rise in the motor.
What that said it is wasting my time each and every time I run again because I have readjust the clutch.
Now for the cause, I think it's the spring that is wrong out, but I would like to get some input from you guys about this or point me in the right direction.

thanks a bunch
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Old 12-30-2004, 09:30 AM   #4196
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What kind of lightweight batteries are you guys using? Are you building them yourselves, or are you buying prebuilt. Feel free to call suggest brand names.
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Old 12-30-2004, 11:08 AM   #4197
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Quote:
Originally posted by Darkseid
What kind of lightweight batteries are you guys using? Are you building them yourselves, or are you buying prebuilt. Feel free to call suggest brand names.
Some are using the batteries that are now being used for the RC18t, Itsy-Bitsy Spyder, etc. while others are using the Mugen MTX3 5-cell AAA hump backs and either cutting the top out of the battery box or eliminating the box and shoe-gooing/taping/strapping them to the battery door. You can actually make a battery pack cheaper than buying a prebuilt one (I have made several and saved at least $7+ dollars per pack).
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Old 12-30-2004, 11:10 AM   #4198
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Quote:
Originally posted by JAG Racing
JLock - Let me know how the 30k diff. oil in the rear works for you. I'll tell you how the front spool works too.

Last year I ran 100k in the front and nothing (light oil coating) in the rear. I also used blue permatex on the diff cases this time; got tired of the leaks.
Did you ever think about running the solid adapter made for the diff in the front instead of the rear?
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Old 12-30-2004, 11:44 AM   #4199
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Default Re: Anybody want to take a stab??

Quote:
Originally posted by tjnmt
Somthing seems to be comming into contact with the clutch nut to make it tighten up like that. Also make sure that your pilot bearing is not seized. The most likely cause is that the clutch shoes are slipping while the flanged bearing (B019) is either seized or not working properly. The flanged bearing is easy to damage. If your clutch is slipping too much you can blow out your throwout and flanged bearing. If thats the case, try the Mugen grey or delta red clutch shoes. I'm pretty sure those are the right shoes to use. I'm going from memory here. Can anybody confirm this for me?

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/in...0/R40-P36o.jpg
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Old 12-30-2004, 01:04 PM   #4200
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Quote:
Originally posted by JLock
Did you ever think about running the solid adapter made for the diff in the front instead of the rear?
Well that is exactly what I am doing. Hope it works out without tearing tires up too much.
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