R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-08-2004, 07:38 PM   #4126
Tech Regular
 
badKarma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Madison, WI/Miami, FL
Posts: 443
Send a message via AIM to badKarma Send a message via Yahoo to badKarma
Default R40 for a first nitro car?

Does anyone think that an R40 is suitable for a first nitro car? I have electric car building experiance but am looking for a first race car for this summer. I really dont want to get an RTR since i cant build it, and i enjoy building. What do yall think? Is it too complex due to the belt drives and clutch? Or should I just get a TC3? Get back at me.
badKarma is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2004, 08:27 PM   #4127
Tech Regular
 
rowveg36's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 346
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

is there an upgrade belt for r40 or can i use a belt from other car such as 710,g4 etc. i now mtx3 doesn't work it's too short. but does anyone tried a different belt?
rowveg36 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2004, 08:29 PM   #4128
Tech Elite
 
AMGRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 3,939
Default Re: R40 for a first nitro car?

Quote:
Originally posted by badKarma
Does anyone think that an R40 is suitable for a first nitro car? I have electric car building experiance but am looking for a first race car for this summer. I really dont want to get an RTR since i cant build it, and i enjoy building. What do yall think? Is it too complex due to the belt drives and clutch? Or should I just get a TC3? Get back at me.
Thats a hard call depends on your skill levels really. Let me just tell you that tuning the engine is challenge one and you will spend some time there. Then tuning the clutch. Once you got that right, it is not hard just takes time and patience, you will be able to run any nitro car.

Theoretically a NTC3 is easier with a shoe clutch so that a pro for it. However I personally think the centax is not hard, you just need to be precice and patient.

As for a 1st nitro car, some people say get a RTR or a "play" car since they are "easier". I never found that myself I had way more trouble with my 1st junk car than my "pro" cars have ever given me. I say get the R40 it is simple to build and wont be any harder to tune or setup than any other nitro car out there at least initially.
AMGRacer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-08-2004, 08:30 PM   #4129
Tech Elite
 
AMGRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 3,939
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by rowveg36
is there an upgrade belt for r40 or can i use a belt from other car such as 710,g4 etc. i now mtx3 doesn't work it's too short. but does anyone tried a different belt?
Why you need an upgrade? More durability?
AMGRacer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2004, 05:29 PM   #4130
Tech Master
 
007kel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Eagle Rock, CA
Posts: 1,327
Send a message via AIM to 007kel Send a message via Yahoo to 007kel
Default shimming for R40 centax clutch

I built my clutch assembly according to the manual. But I still get a larger gap (about 2mm or more) when the clutch bell pulls out. So whenever I run the car, I have to rev the engine high in order for the clutch to engage. I think I have to place more shims to create a smaller gap, allowing the clutch to engage sooner. But no one has these stock shims in stock. Are there any other solutions? I can get a hold of some Yokomo shims, but what size should I use (.5 mm shims)?

Thanks,
Kel
__________________
KO PROPO HELIOS...yeah that's what I have left after leaving RC.
www.foundrycc.com
Instagram: 7kel
007kel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2004, 05:44 PM   #4131
Tech Regular
 
JAG Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Prosper, Texas
Posts: 458
Send a message via AIM to JAG Racing
Default Re: R40 for a first nitro car?

Quote:
Originally posted by badKarma
Does anyone think that an R40 is suitable for a first nitro car? I have electric car building experiance but am looking for a first race car for this summer. I really dont want to get an RTR since i cant build it, and i enjoy building. What do yall think? Is it too complex due to the belt drives and clutch? Or should I just get a TC3? Get back at me.
R40 is a great choice for your first car. Both my 8 year old son and I started with it last year and do not regret the choice.

Maybe the choice of engine has a large impact on clutch set-up issues, but I can tell you that the with Mugen MT-12 engine, clutch assembly & adjustments are exactly as per the set-up instructions. I do see many users talk about how tough the clutch is to get working "good" but I have three R40s, all with MT-12 engine and never had a problem with clutch set-up issues.

I think the hardest part will be getting the engine tuned in properly so the engine runs good. My 2 cents

Go for it!
JAG Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2004, 07:33 PM   #4132
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Wixom, MI
Posts: 105
Default

Heres a pic of my R40... love the car!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg elite1.jpg (67.7 KB, 142 views)
Chad_R40 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2004, 07:37 PM   #4133
Tech Elite
 
AMGRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 3,939
Default

Are those associated shocks on that car?
AMGRacer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2004, 07:55 PM   #4134
Tech Prophet
 
InitialD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: MORDOR
Posts: 19,679
Default Re: shimming for R40 centax clutch

Quote:
Originally posted by 007kel
I built my clutch assembly according to the manual. But I still get a larger gap (about 2mm or more) when the clutch bell pulls out. So whenever I run the car, I have to rev the engine high in order for the clutch to engage. I think I have to place more shims to create a smaller gap, allowing the clutch to engage sooner. But no one has these stock shims in stock. Are there any other solutions? I can get a hold of some Yokomo shims, but what size should I use (.5 mm shims)?
Yes, traditionally you need to put shims in the front where the thrust bearing is to get the gap closer like 0.4 to 0.7 mm.

What I do to circumvent this when I run out of the small shims for the front is to add shims in between the front engine bearing and the flywheel.

If for example you need 1 mm of shim in the front side, add 1 mm shim in between the front engine bearing and the flywheel and that should suffice. I'm pretty sure you have those additional shims lying around as they are seldom used.
InitialD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2004, 08:06 PM   #4135
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Wixom, MI
Posts: 105
Default

AMG: yes there the TC3 shocks.... the HPI option shocks are way too much money i think and i like the AE shocks better. they work great for me!
Chad_R40 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2004, 08:42 PM   #4136
Tech Elite
 
AMGRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 3,939
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Chad_R40
AMG: yes there the TC3 shocks.... the HPI option shocks are way too much money i think and i like the AE shocks better. they work great for me!
Ahhhhhhhhhhh ok. My 2004 came with the alloy shocks as standard so yours was the US spec with the plastic shocks?

My only dislike of the Associated shocks is they are the emulsion type and not the bladder style.
AMGRacer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2004, 09:03 PM   #4137
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Wixom, MI
Posts: 105
Default

Well yeah, thats why i changed them becasue i got the US version with the cheap plastic shocks, main reason i changed them was becasue they leaked relly bad and for 40 bucks for 4 shocks or 40 bucks for 2 hpi shocks....thats why i use the tc3 shocks.
Chad_R40 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2004, 09:53 PM   #4138
Tech Fanatic
 
huskerfreak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: HuskerNation
Posts: 956
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
My only dislike of the Associated shocks is they are the emulsion type and not the bladder style.
Actually a lot people I know and I have myself used the HPI bladders in the Associated shocks. That is how I built them when I had my TC3 and that is how I build them on my B4 and T4.

Hopefully this spring I will be driving my new 2004 spec R40 Sucks that I have to get it from Japan. HPI USA said that they will never be available from any of there distributers in the US because of price to make them. I really don't understand. I will have to make the plunge and go Japaneese. I am just nervous about ordering from there. I just never have and it is hard to trust someone you don't know a lot about. Any feedback on ordering from Japan would be great!!
huskerfreak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2004, 10:17 PM   #4139
Tech Elite
 
AMGRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 3,939
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by huskerfreak
Actually a lot people I know and I have myself used the HPI bladders in the Associated shocks. That is how I built them when I had my TC3 and that is how I build them on my B4 and T4.

Hopefully this spring I will be driving my new 2004 spec R40 Sucks that I have to get it from Japan. HPI USA said that they will never be available from any of there distributers in the US because of price to make them. I really don't understand. I will have to make the plunge and go Japaneese. I am just nervous about ordering from there. I just never have and it is hard to trust someone you don't know a lot about. Any feedback on ordering from Japan would be great!!
Interesting about the shocks thanks for the info.

I cannot believe that line of BS from HPI USA. The kit retails at $350 in HK so how the hell can HPI Japan not ship it to HPI USA for a similar price? Mayby I am just dumb.

I have ordered from RC Champ who is an advertiser on this site and they seemed very good and I got my goods no problems at all.

The 2004 kit is a sensational thing. It even includes titanium screws I mean come on how good is that.
AMGRacer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2004, 10:27 PM   #4140
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Wixom, MI
Posts: 105
Default

huskerfreak, thanks for the great idea for the bladders...i'll have to try that out.
Chad_R40 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New on Nitro and this forum Emaxx rider Rookie Zone 8 02-06-2008 07:21 AM
HPI Nitro MT 2 Forum Tom P Electric Off-Road 5 07-19-2004 06:26 PM
New Nitro R/C Forum Dantherc10man Web Links 0 08-09-2003 07:39 AM
Nitro car forum Rose Money Singapore R/C Racers 47 07-04-2002 08:49 PM
Nitro Forum ART2 Singapore R/C Racers 41 05-16-2002 10:51 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 10:28 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net