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Old 10-17-2004, 05:52 PM   #4006
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How do you like the D3R
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Old 10-17-2004, 05:57 PM   #4007
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Originally posted by 20 SMOKE
How do you like the D3R
I just read your STS post
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Old 10-18-2004, 01:27 PM   #4008
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Quote:
Originally posted by HarKonnenD
I'm running the MT12 w/ SG crank slide carb. How far down should I crank it? Also, should I just bag a Mugen spring instead? I'd really like to drive the car again.
Same setup I run. I start with about 2 shaft threads showing.
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Old 10-19-2004, 10:02 PM   #4009
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I finally got it working now. The car really revs in my hand. Amazing punch offline. Took a little while to get the MT12 going because it hasn't been driven in a while. Had the gunk and MMO to get fully cleaned out before it allowed me to let it rev high. I used a TINY amount of CA glue on the first pinion because it came off no matter how tight it was. I'm running Odonnel fuel in the car now instead of Blue Thunder. I don't remember if my Mugen ran this strong, but its sick.
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Old 10-20-2004, 10:13 AM   #4010
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Hey guys, its been a while since I've been to the thread.

I stripped my rear layshaft pulley in my last race of the season, leaving me with only front wheel drive. Now, I came from running a Reflex last year which had all alloy pulleys, so this is new stuff for me.

Has anyone else had a problem with this? My rear belt was about 4 races old, so it wasn't too loose.

I just want to know if this is a consistent problem, cause if it is, I'll go alloy for that one pulley and suck up the weight addition.

Just in case, does anyone know of a company that makes an alloy replacement for that pulley?
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Old 10-20-2004, 10:26 AM   #4011
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I did it once. I attributed it to the fact that I had run the pulley all season and the fact that I had to bump the car off the board b/c a few times when the car was turned the wrong way and I wasn't patient enough to wait for a marshall, after that one incident I didn't have a problem. 3 racing makes an aluminum one with brake pins integrated into it though.
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Old 10-21-2004, 01:42 PM   #4012
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Hmmm....I did have a couple of incidents when some poor souls found themselves being T-boned on the straight. Those sudden impacts could have caused the damage.

I think I will try to replace it with another plastic one first. Then if it happens again, I'll try the alloy replacement.

Thanks
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Old 10-27-2004, 06:13 PM   #4013
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This thread fell off the front page, so I thought I'd post my race results from Sunday.

I have 2 r40'2, one for my son an one for me. Mine has the lightened parts on it and my son's is stock. We were running stock gearing at a concrete parking lot race. Started off using foams, but it was like ice. Switched to Sorex 36r and traction was better.

Setup was:
front
1/2 degree toe out, 4.5mm ride ht, 2 degrees camber, black springs, 50 wt shock oil.

rear
2.5 degree toe in, 3 degrees camber, black springs, 5.5mm ride ht

My son ran 2 good qualifiers placing 2nd for the main and struggled a bit in the main.

I didn't do so well. 1st qualifier I flamed out. I've been using a RB v.12 with the HPI fuel and can't get it running correctly. Before the next heat, the raffle starts and I win a bottle of fuel. I remembered what Fastharry posted about RB's and Nova's not liking Wildcat fuels so I switched.

2nd qualifier, new fuel, retuned engine, and I get rammed from behind in the first turn. After that the car doesn't handle properly. The hit took off the lower spring retainer on the right rear shock. Limped through the race and ran out of fuel with 20 seconds left. Should have topped off after the start delay.

10 Min. main. 9th place start, I hang back and the front of the pack tangle in the first turn. As I scoot by, one of the leaders gets his car turned around, punches it and promply punts me into the second turn. Turn marshal get my car off the boards and I continue in last place. 3 laps later I start over driving and I ride the boards hard popping off the left steering knuckle and snapping the dogbone. I pull the car off, replace the dogbone, pop the knuckle back on and start racing again. 2 minutes later I run out of fuel comming on to the straight. The extra boost puts me into the boards and the knuckle pops off again. At this point, there's only 20 second left, so I pack it in.

Overall, I was really happy with the setup and performance of the cars. This was my first race since picking them up. My driving though leaves a lot to be desired.

My son won a Tamiya rtr and we also got a bunch of the Orion decals that go inside the body before you paint.

We had a great time though, frustrations and all. Next time will be better.
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Old 10-27-2004, 06:43 PM   #4014
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Quote:
I remembered what Fastharry posted about RB's and Nova's not liking Wildcat fuels so I switched.
What fuel did you switch to...and did you notice a difference..?
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Old 10-27-2004, 06:55 PM   #4015
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rapid Roy
This thread fell off the front page, so I thought I'd post my race results from Sunday.

I have 2 r40'2, one for my son an one for me. Mine has the lightened parts on it and my son's is stock. We were running stock gearing at a concrete parking lot race. Started off using foams, but it was like ice. Switched to Sorex 36r and traction was better.

Setup was:
front
1/2 degree toe out, 4.5mm ride ht, 2 degrees camber, black springs, 50 wt shock oil.

rear
2.5 degree toe in, 3 degrees camber, black springs, 5.5mm ride ht

My son ran 2 good qualifiers placing 2nd for the main and struggled a bit in the main.

I didn't do so well. 1st qualifier I flamed out. I've been using a RB v.12 with the HPI fuel and can't get it running correctly. Before the next heat, the raffle starts and I win a bottle of fuel. I remembered what Fastharry posted about RB's and Nova's not liking Wildcat fuels so I switched.

2nd qualifier, new fuel, retuned engine, and I get rammed from behind in the first turn. After that the car doesn't handle properly. The hit took off the lower spring retainer on the right rear shock. Limped through the race and ran out of fuel with 20 seconds left. Should have topped off after the start delay.

10 Min. main. 9th place start, I hang back and the front of the pack tangle in the first turn. As I scoot by, one of the leaders gets his car turned around, punches it and promply punts me into the second turn. Turn marshal get my car off the boards and I continue in last place. 3 laps later I start over driving and I ride the boards hard popping off the left steering knuckle and snapping the dogbone. I pull the car off, replace the dogbone, pop the knuckle back on and start racing again. 2 minutes later I run out of fuel comming on to the straight. The extra boost puts me into the boards and the knuckle pops off again. At this point, there's only 20 second left, so I pack it in.

Overall, I was really happy with the setup and performance of the cars. This was my first race since picking them up. My driving though leaves a lot to be desired.

My son won a Tamiya rtr and we also got a bunch of the Orion decals that go inside the body before you paint.

We had a great time though, frustrations and all. Next time will be better.
Roy - Similar situation for me. My son and I both run R40s on concrete too (mine lightened and his stock). How's the rear traction? If you havent tried the BSR capped radial tires, you should. They are pricey but they last for serveral race weekends plus they have ridiculous bite. Get the Pro-lite REDS for the rear and PRO-Lite GREENS for the front. You won't be sorry you tried them. By the way, it will cost you about $17 PER TIRE & WHEEL (5-spoke JACO wheel). That comes to ~ $70 for the set. This is about 2x of what your Sorexs costs but there is no comparison on traction PLUS they come already assembled and they last much longer. SO - net results is their cost is similar to the rubbers if you take the longevity into account.
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Old 10-28-2004, 11:41 AM   #4016
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Jag,

Thanks for the info. We only race on the concrete once or twice a year at one of the Hobby People races. The rest of the time we run on medium traction asphalt and use foam tires.

The rear traction was very good. The cars were planted and felt very stable. At first I wasn't getting enough steering because I was previously driving a 705 with a one way. After adjusting my driving style, I had plenty of steering. Agan, the back end was planted. The track was pretty small. Only 1/2 second worth of 2nd geer on the straight. I ended adjusting my 2 speed for 1st only because there was a slight bump in the straight where the car wanted to shift. It was more stable that way

So far, I really like the cars. Especially the cost of parts. $9.00 knuckle set, and $7.50 for dogbones. My last race with my 705 cost me $75 to fix. It was getting too expensive with the way i drive.
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Old 10-29-2004, 02:42 AM   #4017
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Default Top speed of R40

Hi Guys

Recently i bought the R40 -2004 edition from Tokyo for around USD350. I just wonder what is the top speed for the R40 model in comparison to 1/8 Serpent 950R? I was told the R40 can reach a top speed of 120km/h.
Also have you guys used RDl .12 Katana 5port turbo engine on this model?

Cheers
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Old 10-29-2004, 08:30 AM   #4018
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I posted earlier and some people wanted to see the actual shirt before they placed an order so here's the pic.

'hpi racer' ninja
http://home.comcast.net/~anthony.isl...er_shirt_2.jpg

A bunch of the HPI Pro4, Savage, ect guys have bought them and I'll do a second run if enough people are interetested....email me if you are at [email protected]

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...threadid=51915
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Old 10-31-2004, 09:01 AM   #4019
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Default Question about the engine..

Hpi Advertises the R40 as a rolling chassis....Where can I get and which parts are they to make them run. Like the R40 Engine, R40 Pipe and header, etc etc.........I have the rs4 3 and well I would like to build my own but I want it to faster than my Rs43. Can you all help me with location and prices?
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Old 11-01-2004, 04:43 AM   #4020
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Default diff oil leak

Help, my diff oil keeps leaking through the diff o-ring, its an R40. Is it alright if I use grease instead of diff oil so that it wont leak out? My LHS has no diff o-rings available and also said it still will leak even if I replace with new ones.. How will it affect the car's handling?

thanks...
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