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Old 08-30-2004, 08:06 AM   #3721
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Quote:
Originally posted by tranced
BF: you haven't done anything wrong. the stock bellcrank assembly does have vertical play on one of the posts. as you said, a spacer can remedy this, but I hope HPI can address this as well. i would suggest using a very small bearing instead of a washer, to keep the posts free of binding.

the 3racing bellcranks (as seen here: http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=3197) appear to be made to stock dimensions, so i doubt they would fix the problem.
Cheers, I thought there was something wrong, looks like it's them not me for a change A thrust bearing on top would be good but how do you measure it to get the size

I've already installed a set of 3racing bellcranks and that's when I noticed the freeplay. I also note that these 3racing bellcranks don't support the steering arm, they mate to the flanged bearings, so the arm slides up and down around the flanged bearings as well. I put the HPI plastic ones back in

How is everyone measuring droop? I got this car without a droop gauge and the one I have gives unreliable results on this car. I notice the setup used by harra on the HPI web site says 0mm bump stop and 1mm rebound stop for the front. I'm guessing this is screw extension distance as per the manual and 1mm refers to the droop screw.

Last edited by BF; 08-30-2004 at 09:33 AM.
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Old 08-30-2004, 09:09 AM   #3722
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Quote:
Originally posted by MRWRX_69
hey guys i need a list on what fings to get rid of or a list of how to make a r40 lighter
on my r40 i have the following, alloy servo saver, alloy tray holders, graphite shock towers, alloy chassis stiffener, front alloy roll bar and a few other fings i need this list asap so i can improve my alredy improving r40,
The best start you could make would be getting rid of the alloy stuff. Yeah, it looks nice, but you can't add that stuff AND try to shave weight.

I've added this stuff:

-graphite towers
-Super chassis
-lightweight shafts
-light weight upper deck (I modded my original to be like the lighter one)

These changes shaved nearly 80g off my car.

Other things I plan to do sometime before next season:

-light weight 2-speed
-switch from my old style Futaba reciever(big) to a lighter XXL(I have one already, just haven't switched)
-take a dremel to some of the plastic pieces on the car. They have a lot of excess plastic(like between some of the stiffening rims) that doesn't need to be there.
-replace the alloy steering drag link and alloy front suspension braces with graphite peices.

Things I don't plan to do:
-I don't plan to get rid of my receiver box. Its well designed and functional, so it worth the weight.
-I don't plan to get rid of the reciever pack box...well maybe I'll lighten it a bit by making some holes in it. Last time I opened up the box, I still found fuel in it, so its not exactly keeping the stuff out...so maybe I will get rid of it!
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Old 08-30-2004, 10:32 AM   #3723
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Have any of you noticed that the fuel tank rides really hard on the receiver box. I really didn't notice until I saw the wear on top of the receiver battery cover. Looks like the tank can sit almost 1/8" lower without it
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Old 08-30-2004, 04:44 PM   #3724
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Yeah, I saw the same thing. I don't think its hampering the mounting of the tank though. HPI designed the tank to sit right where it is. The only way to mount it lower is to remove the rubber cushions (cut fuel tubing ) and that would leave the tank not monted properly or have a lot of vibration.
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Old 09-01-2004, 04:10 AM   #3725
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hi....

Just a few questions dudes...

1. The receiver and battery connector switch position ( where is the best)

2. Everytime i refuel there is a spill and it glitches . Cant refuel carefully esp during races . (tried the baloon thingy but still doesnt really work . any tips ...???

thanks guys ...

cheers
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Old 09-01-2004, 06:58 AM   #3726
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Well first I would say start over with a fresh switch. Just to make sure you aren't getting the same glitch from when you first spilled fuel on it.

Then, when you say you tried the 'balloon thingy' are you talking about the something you made from a balloon, or are you refering to the actual purpose made silcone switch covers from a company like OFNA or GS racing?

I can't imagine fuel getting through one of the purpose made pieces.

I use a HiTech switch on mine and have spilled a couple times in it with no damage, so maybe you could try a different brand of switch. Or as a last resort, fuel from the other side of the car or through the windshield.

Good luck
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Old 09-01-2004, 07:19 AM   #3727
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I think Three28 is referring to spilling fuel on his rx pack which is causing glitches...I have seen this problem at the track but have never experienced it myself. First things first - Fire your palsy ridden pit crew and replace them with someone who can shoot fuel into the tank and not on the tank! Just kidding...

I have kept my receiver in the stock position and I have no intention of moving the receiver box. I cannot see how 1-2 grams of weight saving will affect the car significantly. Did you zip tie the end of the ballon so that it is tight around your servo, power, transponder, and antenna wires? Also try having enough balloon left over so that you can rubber band your wires so that the open end of the balloon points downward (hard to do with a lot of power switch wires because they are too darn short....)

Some other non-modifying ideas to improve fuel delivery in the pits...don't try to make a mid-race fuel stop using a full bottle of fuel. Your pit man should only have enough fuel in it for one full tank. I make sure my pit crew never puts more than 73 cc of fuel in the bottle. That saves time in and of itself because they don't have to watch the tank level; just squeeze like hell and drop the car when the bottle is empty. This also prevents overfilling which causes more problems than glitchy electronics. All that fuel has to go somewhere and simple physics state that the fuel is going to go aft when you shoot out of the pits. I don't know about you but I have enough problems driving without having to deal with sloppy wet rear wheels for two laps after my pit stops...

Hope this helps.
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Old 09-01-2004, 08:40 AM   #3728
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Quote:
Originally posted by minigiant

I make sure my pit crew never puts more than 73 cc of fuel in the bottle. That saves time in and of itself because they don't have to watch the tank level; just squeeze like hell and drop the car when the bottle is empty. Hope this helps.
Minigiant, I would have to disagree with the 73 cc fuel in the bottle. Even the best pitman can make mistakes, or even the driver. Driver might be over reving and cause pit man to spill or pit man might be a natural cluts. I would rather have to burn fuel off the tires than not finish a race due to fuel starvation.
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Old 09-01-2004, 09:00 AM   #3729
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Quote:
Originally posted by three28

1. The receiver and battery connector switch position ( where is the best)
This statement is a little confusing, so when he said "switch", I thought he meant........the actual switch.

I can't imagine having problems with any other connectors since aside from the "switch", they're all inside one box or another.

O'well, maybe he'll clear it up when comes back to read this.
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Old 09-03-2004, 09:55 AM   #3730
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Hey guys, if you are looking to stock up on parts cheap look here

http://www.microrcshop.com/

30% off. They don't have everything, but you can fill your extra parts bins for a lot less.
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Old 09-03-2004, 06:53 PM   #3731
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Any one notice brake fade after a long run and has any one try the graphite dics and pads
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Old 09-03-2004, 09:40 PM   #3732
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I did try graphite disc brake and I don't like it. The only thing I like is the sound. When you let off the gas you will hear the hi-pitch noice look like a turbo charge.
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Old 09-04-2004, 05:44 AM   #3733
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I tried it and didn't like it either....

what I did like is the 3 racing brake arm.....I thought the brakes were more linear.........
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Old 09-04-2004, 07:57 AM   #3734
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hey pplz,
i have an r40, but my stock brake pads were out soo fast they only last like 4 laps and once they heat up no brakes, can anyone help

on another note, im buying a 2004 spec r40 as a 2nd car and i was wondering if someone can give me a list of what hpi options this car has

cheers
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Old 09-04-2004, 11:59 AM   #3735
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Quote:
Originally posted by MRWRX_69
hey pplz,
i have an r40, but my stock brake pads were out soo fast they only last like 4 laps and once they heat up no brakes, can anyone help

on another note, im buying a 2004 spec r40 as a 2nd car and i was wondering if someone can give me a list of what hpi options this car has

cheers
I just put a post about brake fade they have graphite pads but i don't know if they work. the kit I think somes with front and rear shock towers side brace i think and two spd search hpi h/k and they might a parts list
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