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Old 08-18-2004, 08:34 PM   #3646
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Default Re: mugen clutch nut

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Originally posted by jscamry
MRWRX- do you have the pt# for the mugen clutch nut? also will that slove slipping? I have purchased a new clutch shoe from mugen the grey shoe, and trimmed down the post and still slipping occurs.

thansk jason
hey man
ill find out for you, but that centax clutch nut is rubbish
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Old 08-19-2004, 08:41 AM   #3647
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Have you guys ever tryied this solid axle in the front for making it like spool...or it should be used only for the rear.

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Old 08-19-2004, 08:44 AM   #3648
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One more thing...Can I use the same oil in the front and same in the rear?

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Old 08-19-2004, 09:04 AM   #3649
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Quote:
Originally posted by X-Garage
One more thing...Can I use the same oil in the front and same in the rear?

Solid = SPOOL, just different terms that ppl use.....and you want to use it on the FRONT....if you want to use it on the rear, you MUST use 1-way up front on some HIGH BIT, BIG HUGH track...otherwise, use your rear diff and 1-way or diff in front.

With solid front, be prepare to have snapped CVD or twisted CVD, on high trackion track, that will gives you very quick steering, but since there are NO WHERE the extra power on both wheels to go (because it is solid), it will go to the dogbone....many ppl will have snapped or twisted dogbone because of that...so, be aware...

Yes, you can use both same # of grease on both front and rear diff....but I doubt it will work the best, the front WILL NEVER be set the same as the REAR of the car, if the diff is the same, your shock oil/springs, camber/caster, tire shores/diameter.....etc, one of the thing you must have to adjust in order to make your car handles great....

I would not do that, i would always make my front diff tigher then the rear...., I rather use the same oil/springs and tires F and R in stead of the same diff grease
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Old 08-19-2004, 09:12 AM   #3650
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How about #100000 in the front and #30000 in the rear?

I felle like my rea diff is leaking. I can see the diff oil everywhere in the rear.
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Old 08-19-2004, 09:14 AM   #3651
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Oh one more thing! Do you use the spring to pull the brakeback to nutral? because every time i brake that lever not returning back to normal position.
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Old 08-19-2004, 10:09 AM   #3652
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yes, a return spring should be used on the brake side of the servo. You should also have a spring independent of the throttle/brake servo to return your throttle to idle should you cut a power wire, dump gas on the receiver, or have a battery pack die. Failsafes only work when the receiver is working :/

If your diffs are leaking, just apply a thin bead of Blue RTV to both sides of the gasket and it will stop leaking with no side affects.

Good luck
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Old 08-19-2004, 10:26 AM   #3653
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What is Blue RTV?

Do you have a picture of your car with return spring? I just can't picture what i should do.
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Old 08-19-2004, 01:05 PM   #3654
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Quote:
Originally posted by X-Garage
What is Blue RTV?

Do you have a picture of your car with return spring? I just can't picture what i should do.
Its silicone go to a auto part store ask for it . it is also used for sealing water pumps on cars get blue not black or red
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Old 08-19-2004, 04:25 PM   #3655
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Do any of you have the RC screws on their cars? I'm wondering if the hex is metric or standard. I have been using my metric dirver, but it fits a little loose.
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Old 08-19-2004, 04:32 PM   #3656
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rapid Roy
Do any of you have the RC screws on their cars? I'm wondering if the hex is metric or standard. I have been using my metric dirver, but it fits a little loose.
might be torque just a thought
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Old 08-19-2004, 04:35 PM   #3657
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If they're made specially for that certain car, then the size of the head depends on the car. For example, NTC3 and other Associated cars have Standard US Size Heads, while other cars use metric size.
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Old 08-19-2004, 08:08 PM   #3658
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I thought RC Screwz used 2mm hex on all thier screws...
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Old 08-20-2004, 04:42 AM   #3659
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yeah, mine are all 2mm and yes, they are a sloppy fit with the hex driver....
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Old 08-20-2004, 09:31 AM   #3660
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Personally, I find those metric screws annoying (again, why use machines screws on plastic parts...?).......now, I have to take extra times to remove those screws (at least 2 times longer)...........and I cannot use electric screws drivers (overheating the plastic....)

I still like the original self tapping screws from HPI, no wonder HPI is selling a whole set of Ti R40 screws for good $60 large one...and I am not sure that is availible in USA, I saw that on Rcmodel site over Hong Kong.
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