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Old 08-11-2004, 08:30 AM   #3631
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sup guys im posting from houstin texas..

just would like to report back that the hpi challenge was a big success, and I managed to squeeze in a mild 1st in B-Main Nitro Modified. After missing out on 2 qualifiers, I took hold of the 3rd trial, and blew into B-Mains. I was really hoping for an A-Main position, but a flame out in the 1st qualifier, and a DNS in the 2nd pushed me far out of place.

I managed to rip the B-Mainers up, maintaining about 10+ laps up over the other guys. I was seriously disappointed that I my own mistakes caused me to be placed there in the B's.

Anyways, I'll be going to the upstate challenge, hopefully I'll see many of you there, trekky & fastharry, hoping to finally meet you dudes!
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Old 08-11-2004, 09:50 AM   #3632
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Missing one qualifier for me is already a disadvantage but missing two and then coming back to win the B is pretty good. Too bad they did not have bump ups in that class. Finishing 10 laps on everyone makes me think you could have been in the top 3 in the A. Congrats!
Anyway the NY challenge is about 10 days away and I'm looking foward to racing with you guys.
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Old 08-11-2004, 11:19 AM   #3633
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Good driving there Tranced, congrats on the win

Looks like there will be some good compitition at the NY HPI Challenge, hope to see you there.
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Old 08-11-2004, 10:41 PM   #3634
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Default Re: solid diff

Quote:
Originally posted by jscamry
does anyone know how to make the front diff into solid diff? I was thinking about putting j&b weld, in the front diff, to make it a solid.

also, does anyone know where I can find the manual for the HPI Rear Solid Axle Purple R40 pn# 75060. I dont really see how it all works together, with the out drives.

thanks jason
Don't ruin a diff by using jb weld. Get some serpent cleaning gum or some diff-lock ofna grease and it will be almost locked but not quite. Just enough to save your dogbones and belts, and no it doesn't push very bad at all. It allows very hard braking and pulls just like the oneway coming out of the corners. Try it - you'll like it in both low and high traction conditions.
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Old 08-12-2004, 11:32 AM   #3635
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Default Re: Re: solid diff

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Originally posted by OB42TC3
Don't ruin a diff by using jb weld. Get some serpent cleaning gum or some diff-lock ofna grease and it will be almost locked but not quite. Just enough to save your dogbones and belts, and no it doesn't push very bad at all. It allows very hard braking and pulls just like the oneway coming out of the corners. Try it - you'll like it in both low and high traction conditions.
Yeah, I think Serpent Gum plus some heavy diff grease will do the work...........I did that with my 4 diff mod....and ended up WAY WAY understeering....I have to lean down the front shock, changed from RED to YELLOW springs and use 32 shores tires to get some steering back, it was a quick fix for the race, and I will have to clear some of those grease inside the front diff in order to get some more steering back...........

But for the start up setting, you always want your car UNDER rather then OVER............
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Old 08-12-2004, 12:51 PM   #3636
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Default thanks for the help on the diff

but where can i find the Serpent Gum? and is it expensive? has anyone tried the HPI Rear Solid Axle Purple R40, pt# 75060 in the front diff?. here is the link



thanks jason

Last edited by jscamry; 08-12-2004 at 01:00 PM.
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Old 08-12-2004, 01:44 PM   #3637
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If I understand the way that part work correctly then it should work. I assume that it replaces the gears inside of the diff. Since all of the internals are the same in the front and rear, it should work.
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Old 08-16-2004, 09:31 AM   #3638
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Anyone using the 3Racing Servo Saver?

The crank part, ie: the non servo saver half, moves up and down on the pin throwing the steering to hell. It's as though I have a bit missing? I put a 2mm spacer on top of it to stop it moving about. The plastic bits are the same size but they didn't float everywhere. What have I done wrong?
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Old 08-17-2004, 10:47 AM   #3639
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BF: you haven't done anything wrong. the stock bellcrank assembly does have vertical play on one of the posts. as you said, a spacer can remedy this, but I hope HPI can address this as well. i would suggest using a very small bearing instead of a washer, to keep the posts free of binding.

the 3racing bellcranks (as seen here: http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=3197) appear to be made to stock dimensions, so i doubt they would fix the problem.
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Old 08-17-2004, 08:00 PM   #3640
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Anyone had the brake posts coming out? What's the fix? CA or set screws?
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Old 08-17-2004, 08:40 PM   #3641
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hey BF i use the alloy servo saver, makes my steering smooth as
thanks
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Old 08-17-2004, 10:17 PM   #3642
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BF, Tried using a 0.2 mm shim on the steering servo end which is loose and it helps a bit. You don't want to completely eliminate any vertical movement as this would cause binding and add stress to the servo, as i've been told.

Just a couple of questions from my end:

1. With regards to gear ratios - have read a few theories prior to this, but how do you measure/set the right ratio for 1st and 2nd pinions/spurs on a given track? How do use the gear ratios given by HPI?

2. Anyone converted their centax to Mugen. Any issues faced?
I've changed the clutchbell to Mugen but the parts to the assembly are HPIs.

3. Has anyone converted their two speed and spur set to Mugen as well? Can it be done? Is there any benefit? I seem to be having loads of problem with 2 speed engagement with the HPI 1.0mm stock assembly.

Thanks in advance.

//////6ers
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Old 08-17-2004, 10:20 PM   #3643
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hey dude
dont waste your money on a new mugen clutch set
its the crappy hpi/centax clutch nut that tightenes itself always
just get the mugen clutch nut and you wont have any probs again
i did and have done 5 race meetings now without any probs
thanks
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Old 08-17-2004, 10:35 PM   #3644
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Default mugen clutch nut

Quote:
Originally posted by MRWRX_69
hey dude
dont waste your money on a new mugen clutch set
its the crappy hpi/centax clutch nut that tightenes itself always
just get the mugen clutch nut and you wont have any probs again
i did and have done 5 race meetings now without any probs
thanks
MRWRX- do you have the pt# for the mugen clutch nut? also will that slove slipping? I have purchased a new clutch shoe from mugen the grey shoe, and trimmed down the post and still slipping occurs.

thansk jason
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Old 08-18-2004, 01:06 PM   #3645
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Default Re: mugen clutch nut

Quote:
Originally posted by jscamry
MRWRX- do you have the pt# for the mugen clutch nut? also will that slove slipping? I have purchased a new clutch shoe from mugen the grey shoe, and trimmed down the post and still slipping occurs.

thansk jason
Here's somthing I pulled out a number of pages back. Hope it helps.

OK I got serious last night and took TQ with my porky 1850g car. Then I broke the car in the first lap of the final. Oh well.

Anyway I learned a few things along the way..........

The clutch fix. The way to make the clutch awesome is as follows:

1. Get a Mugen grey shoe or a Red rulon shoe from Delta. This will eliminate most of the slipping. The stock black shoe I estimates slips around 10000 rpm at least. With the red or grey that drops to a few thousand. Very noticable punch increase.

2. I finally trialled the new spring. I am using the Kyosho hard black spring from the Evolution. A Mugen silver will work similarly. The main advantage is that these springs have less winds and you dont need to crank down on them so hard. They are around 1mm shorter. With the HPI spring you need to crank down on it so hard to get good high engagement you start to get spring bind (the loops touch each other) and the engagement sticks. A harder spring wont get the binding.

I also used a RB V12 motor, still running in. Man this thing was like having a turbocharger on the mid range. The low end was great, but mid range was phenominal!! Top end is less than a NS12, but I did not give up any car speed at all, and I was slightly undergeared as well. I should have my 2004 parts soon............
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