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Old 08-03-2004, 07:44 PM   #3601
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Is there any thing I can read on dif oil and what each wt does by going up or down I might try front to see what type of drivind style I have with it
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Old 08-04-2004, 09:43 AM   #3602
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Dark,

The asia 0.8 2 Spd has a 21/27 pinion 59/53 spur combination, which is a little more civilized IMO.

Does anyone know what the r40 setup sheets mean when they give rebound readings? Where exactly are they measuring from to get their numbers? I've always found the droop reading on setup sheets unclear and non universal.
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Old 08-04-2004, 10:15 AM   #3603
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I was wondering if anyone has had clutch problems with there R40. I have had mine for a couple of weeks and I can not get the clutch to work properly. I think the most trouble I am having is the shimming of it. I just can't get it shimmed right. Also what are you guys refering to when you say 0.8 module? Any info would be really appreciated.
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Old 08-04-2004, 10:22 AM   #3604
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Quote:
I was wondering if anyone has had clutch problems with there R40. I have had mine for a couple of weeks and I can not get the clutch to work properly. I think the most trouble I am having is the shimming of it. I just can't get it shimmed right. Also what are you guys refering to when you say 0.8 module? Any info would be really appreciated.
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Old 08-04-2004, 10:53 AM   #3605
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Originally posted by huskerfreak
I was wondering if anyone has had clutch problems with there R40. I have had mine for a couple of weeks and I can not get the clutch to work properly. I think the most trouble I am having is the shimming of it. I just can't get it shimmed right. Also what are you guys refering to when you say 0.8 module? Any info would be really appreciated.
Yeah depending on what engine you are using you might need some extra shims; I got a nice Yokomo shim kit (5 mm) that includes .05,.1,.2 mm thicknesses. HPI only supplies ones for the thrust bearing, but with there really should be shims for either side of the clutchbell bearings to keep the bell off the shoe, and to help with endplay. One thing I found was you can only put so many shims behind the thrust bearing before it will lock up when torqued. I think the stock spring is also very weak and tends to let the clutch engage too early.
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Old 08-04-2004, 12:26 PM   #3606
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Originally posted by 20 SMOKE
Thats how I got my two spd for $40 had a problem with my car when i got. as for the the plates i don't have the shock towers on one so that it does come with the towers i' will buy it but a good thought on trying to get theme
The plates are designed to go with the new mounting positions on the CF tower. Not sure what the result would be if you used the plates withou the CF tower.

Anyone ever line up a CF tower and a stock tower to see if the holes are in the same position?
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Old 08-04-2004, 01:43 PM   #3607
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Quote:
Originally posted by Darkseid
Hey, you never know! I would call them and ask if there is any way to get just the plates. This is the company that sent me out a full set of replacement shock caps for my Pro 4 for free and is currently replacing the diff gears for the Pro 4 for free to anyone who will give them a call.

I had no idea that HPI's customer service was so good. So I would say he should give them a call and see if theres anything they can do.
Wait a minute here....what happened to the PRO 4? I just got 1 and I have no idea what was the problem of the PRO 4...? Please let me know (PM) so I can call HPI and get my FREE STUFF.....

FREE is always good.......and I would like to know more about HPI customer service...

I know PRO 4 Diff CUP has a revision, but I didn't know about the Diff gear...? Thanks....
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Old 08-04-2004, 01:49 PM   #3608
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Quote:
Originally posted by OB42TC3
...there really should be shims for either side of the clutchbell bearings...
huskerfreak: OB42TC3 hit the nail on the head! Before I ever got my R40, some guys here recommended looking around at various companies centax tips. I checked out both Trinity and Serpents instructions and tips and found that they both had something that the R40 lacked. A shim for behind the clutch bell bearing! VERY IMPORTANT! Without that shim, the bell tends to drag on the clutch shoe...not good!

I had to dig through my old stuff, but I found a .5mm shim to go behind the clutch bell bearing. That makes it 1000% easier to get the centax set up right.

Also, make sure when you put the thrust bearing on with the shims over the screw, that they all sit perfectly flat. If any of them sneak out of position it will throw off your measurements.

My experience so far with HPI's centax is that it needs to be tighter than the manual says. I think it recommends having ".5~.8mm" of thread showing after you install the clutch nut. If you do that, you'll spend alot of time getting left at the start and getting pulled out of the corners. Between the three engines I've run in my R40 this year, I've consistently ended up with more like 1.5mm(or about 2 full threads) showing after I have threaded the clutch nut on and gotten it perfect.

Now this will vary by the traction availible, but I've found that to be the best balance of launching power and wheel spin....good luck.
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Old 08-04-2004, 01:55 PM   #3609
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Quote:
Originally posted by OB42TC3
Yeah depending on what engine you are using you might need some extra shims; I got a nice Yokomo shim kit (5 mm) that includes .05,.1,.2 mm thicknesses. HPI only supplies ones for the thrust bearing, but with there really should be shims for either side of the clutchbell bearings to keep the bell off the shoe, and to help with endplay. One thing I found was you can only put so many shims behind the thrust bearing before it will lock up when torqued. I think the stock spring is also very weak and tends to let the clutch engage too early.
I cannot agree more........whatever the manual said (by just using those little 0.2mm shims in front of the thrust bearing) does not WORK....at least, not the way I like for the centax...
You have to add the bigger and thicker shim BEFORE you install your flywheel...manual said use the stock 0.8mm shim only....I ended up adding one 0.1mm and one 0.3mm (from Serpent)....then put the whole parts together....before the thrust bearing, I ended up using Four 0.2mm copper shims........the overall differents is a little bit less then 0.3mm, and that is the BEST i can do for the HPI Centax, not really what I like, but very close.

About the Spring, ppl said use Mugen Spring....I use the Serpent one, works out fine.

P.S....almost forgot, like Darkseid said, you have the option to add a small shim before the centax bearing (like Serpent Centax does).......however, my other option is....the 4 POST of the flywheel from HPI somehow is sticking out WAY FURTHER then it needs to....so I dremel them all down about 2mm each, and the clutch housing now is no longer rubbing the flywheel posts...

Last edited by Rookie Solara; 08-04-2004 at 02:31 PM.
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Old 08-04-2004, 01:57 PM   #3610
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Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Wait a minute here....what happened to the PRO 4? I just got 1 and I have no idea what was the problem of the PRO 4...? Please let me know (PM) so I can call HPI and get my FREE STUFF.....

FREE is always good.......and I would like to know more about HPI customer service...

I know PRO 4 Diff CUP has a revision, but I didn't know about the Diff gear...? Thanks....
You've got PM!
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Old 08-04-2004, 02:03 PM   #3611
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You've got PM!
Thanks.....just PM you back (no need to post here anymore, I will spot that everytime I turn on the RCTECH)
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Old 08-04-2004, 02:10 PM   #3612
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Originally posted by Rookie Solara
....the 4 POST of the flywheel from HPI somehow is sticking out WAY FURTHER then it needs to....so I dremel them all down about 2mm each, and the clutch bear no longer rubbing the flywheel postes...
You noticed that too!?! I thought I was imagining stuff when I first took my clutch bell off and saw that wear line in there. I figured there was no way HPI would make a mistake like that so I didn't change anything.

Now that I know I wasn't imagining stuff, I think I will go back and cut those post down on mine too.
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Old 08-04-2004, 02:30 PM   #3613
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Quote:
Originally posted by Darkseid
You noticed that too!?! I thought I was imagining stuff when I first took my clutch bell off and saw that wear line in there. I figured there was no way HPI would make a mistake like that so I didn't change anything.

Now that I know I wasn't imagining stuff, I think I will go back and cut those post down on mine too.
Well....as much as I have respect to HPI about the PRO 4 and R40.....I have to say, their centax is really sloppy (compare to the 10 years old Serpent Centax 1, the Serpent one is still better build)....

If you push the clutch housing (without any SHIM before the bearing) and TURN the housing HARD, you will scored a silver circle LINE onto the housing, I knew that because I brought a brand new housing JUST to find out where is the binding problem occured at...? At the SHOES rubbing the housing? or the POSTS rubbing the housing...?

After that little test.......I dremel all 4 legs about 2mm.......if you don't know HOW much you need to shave....put the clutch shoes back on, and the END of the post is suppose to be FLUSH with the edge of the shoes, that way you know...if there is any binding, it MUST be the SHOES rubbing the housing...

The next step is adding that little 0.1 or 0.2mm shim before the housing, that shim will prevent the HOUSING rubbing against the shoes at the NON LOAD situation....the out come is...you clutch bear should spin VERY VERY FREELY without binding with the POSTS or with the SHOE....
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Old 08-04-2004, 06:44 PM   #3614
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Quote:
Originally posted by Darkseid
You noticed that too!?! I thought I was imagining stuff when I first took my flywheel off and saw that wear line in there. I figured there was no way HPI would make a mistake like that so I didn't change anything.

Now that I know I wasn't imagining stuff, I think I will go back and cut those post down on mine too.
You don't have to dremel the posts. Just take the flywheel and place on a flat hard surface and hit the post gently with a hammer. they will push back into place.

It seems that on some of the flywheels the posts are not seated all the way. I had that problem on 1 of my flywheels too.

Last edited by treky11; 08-05-2004 at 12:51 PM.
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Old 08-04-2004, 08:56 PM   #3615
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Originally posted by treky11
You don't have to dremel the posts. Just take the bell and place on a flat hard surface and hit the post gently with a hammer. they will push back into place.

It seems that on some of the bells the posts are not seated all the way. I had that problem on 1 of my clutch bells too.
Hmmm......thanks for the info. I'll try that first before I start cutting.
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