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Old 07-01-2004, 08:53 PM   #3346
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I am sure the concept is correct........but I think when I was reading the Serpent Centax building instruction (and my personal experience), they already said that 2.4mm-1.5mm= 0.9mm theory is NOT necessary the case in the Centax....again, the concept is CORRECT, but not necessary gaining 1.5mm of shim in front of the flywheel = need only 0.9mm shim in front of the thrust bearing........you might need LESS then 0.9mm shim, or it might be MORE then 0.9mm of shim, but the concept is there.
Agreed. That would depend on how tight you lock the clutch nut down on the flywheel from one case to another. But the variance should not be a lot.
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Old 07-01-2004, 08:54 PM   #3347
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
As you can see, Serpent add shims BEHIND the thrust bearing (opposite way to add shim compare to HPI R40 Centax clutch methrod) and in front of the thrust bearing spacer and screws.
I have looked at that before. Putting the way the R40 manual suggest would be easier for the installer. But putting the shims (usually very thin) against the B019 flanged bearing on the other side may cause premature failure of that bearing. Just my 2 cents.
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Old 07-01-2004, 08:55 PM   #3348
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Also, do you guys know that the thrust bearing from the R40 centax, both O-RING are having different inner diameter just like Serpent or Mugen Thrust bearing....? And the larger diameter one are suppose to go in first (toward flywheel) and the smaller diameter one are facing outside.
Thrust bearings ALWAYS have one ring with bigger inner diameter than the other and you always need to put the bigger inner diameter first towards the clutch shoes and then the smaller one further out.

Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I didn't see HPI manual mentioned that, don't know that matters or not, but on Serpent and Mugen's manuel, they both mentioned it and it must go in to the right direction.
If you did not happen to install the thrust bearing right, then HPI just gets richer selling blown out thrust bearing replacements.
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Old 07-01-2004, 09:51 PM   #3349
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I got some parts gears and oneway and can't get this secong gear off on the clutch anybody got any secrets they know on gettin them off. What parts do i need for the four diff mod.
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Old 07-01-2004, 09:57 PM   #3350
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i had the same problem... all i did was just take two locking pliars, and rapped a rag around the bell so it wouldnt get damaged.. then clamped them down, on on the gear, and the other on the bell.. and then just twisted, and eventually it came off.. i couldnt find any pinion wrench out that there that would fit so thats the only thing i know of doing. good luck
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Old 07-02-2004, 04:44 AM   #3351
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
Yes they are different. You can email order them from Delta.

If you are running your car at Brendale you should definately get the red ones, the cost me around AUD$15 from Delta. Most other local tracks will be fine with the grey shoes.
I'm about to run this R40 with an OS .12cv at Bayside for the Winter season but I also have a .12 Picco run in and almost clutched/geared up for a Brendale visit. Do you have an address for Delta ?
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Old 07-02-2004, 06:36 AM   #3352
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Quote:
I'm about to run this R40 with an OS .12cv at Bayside for the Winter
how did you get a side exhaust engine in the car?..
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Old 07-02-2004, 07:08 AM   #3353
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With one of these headers. Plus a little bending to free up the rear belt gear. It's still too close to the rear plastic bits but so far it's all ok but I'm still running in the engine. Time will tell

Last edited by BF; 07-06-2004 at 10:22 AM.
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Old 07-04-2004, 12:42 AM   #3354
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Thrust bearings ALWAYS have one ring with bigger inner diameter than the other and you always need to put the bigger inner diameter first towards the clutch shoes and then the smaller one further out.
That, I was figured out when I setup my friend's R40 back last year....when I told him thrust bearing always has a big one and smalll, but he disagree............several race later, he learned his lesson...

Again, HPI mannel DOES NOT mentioned that....and you really think every R40 owner knows that different...? Or does that make a different...?
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Old 07-04-2004, 12:48 AM   #3355
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One thing about the R40 is the BRAKE LEVELER area.....I found out I just cannot pull the brake too far to have a full brake postiion on the car.....that stupid ass metal leveler will OVERTURN the brake pad and skip.....

Any modification that I can do to improve the braking...? The best I can do right now is kinda like drag brake, if I pull the brake linkage more forward, that leveler will skip...that is ONE STUPID ASS design............

P.S.....or that metal leveler or the brake metal plate (w/pad) need to be replaced.....any idea?
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Old 07-04-2004, 01:13 AM   #3356
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Sounds like the brake cam rounded out. Not sure though. No problems with mine yet.
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Old 07-04-2004, 07:29 AM   #3357
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Quote:
Originally posted by DOMOisCOOL
Sounds like the brake cam rounded out. Not sure though. No problems with mine yet.
I don't see the WEAR on the CAM and the Brake metal plate....but if I put a small screw driver thru the hole and turn it, without much effort, I can turn over from the FLAT side of the cam to the ROUND side of the cam very easily...........

So far, I never owned a belt car has a brake design like that...I will have to look at some other R40 and see will they do the same thing.....

P.S.....btw, I have to do a PRO 4 signature like you...LOL, I will have the car sometime next week.
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Old 07-04-2004, 07:48 AM   #3358
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rookie......never mind that you can pull the lever all the way foward...(thats actually a good thing..lets you get to the screw that holds the brace on).....once you get the linkage set up,you'll have plenty of brakes......
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Old 07-04-2004, 07:59 AM   #3359
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
rookie......never mind that you can pull the lever all the way foward...(thats actually a good thing..lets you get to the screw that holds the brace on).....once you get the linkage set up,you'll have plenty of brakes......
Good morning FH....I thought I am up early cause I have to feed the baby..........

Yeah, I think it is NOT as good as a design that I experienced or expected, but when the CAR is actually on the road, it will work the magic.........I just have to make sure my throttle servo is not set too far FORWARD and turn the CAM over to the round size and ended up Anti-ABS on a 200' straightaway.....thanks for the info...

P.S.....did you get your PRO 4 yet...? Domo and I both got one recently and we should hang around there more often.....
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Old 07-04-2004, 08:04 AM   #3360
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not yet........I have to decide what class I want to run at the challenge........I'm thinking n mod,Super,n stock,micro...and maybe e mod.....(or estock).......have to decide....

Don't forget to put a spring and linkage collar on the other side of the brake linkage..puts tension on the brake lever,and keeps it off the pads....

Don't let anyone kid you.,,,,The brakes on the r4o are WAY better than the tc3........
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