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Old 06-18-2004, 09:45 AM   #3226
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Originally posted by AMGRacer
My Japanese spec one is 21/26. This ratio will work nicely at all but the largest of tracks.
Is that what you are using or that came with the kit...? THanks..
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Old 06-18-2004, 12:08 PM   #3227
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Originally posted by Rookie Solara
So 22/29 is what the 2-speed 0.8 kit came with...? Or that is what you are using for your own setting...?

THanks....
that is what came with mine i counted the teeth when i got it
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Old 06-18-2004, 12:47 PM   #3228
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Quote:
Originally posted by 20 SMOKE
that is what came with mine i counted the teeth when i got it
Great, thanks........on the HPI site or TOWER, they only listed the 54/60 spur gear count, never mentioned the pinion tooth counts on the stock 0.8 moduel kit.....
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Old 06-18-2004, 01:02 PM   #3229
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Finally got my R40 on hand, immediately, I stripped the car in 100 pieces...and found out several issue...

(1) 3 out of 4 pillow balls are BENT (just like NTC3)....is that usual...?

(2) Opening the front diff cover is not AS EASY as HPI said, still 6 screws and the shocks and the whole upper arms, but still, better then the old HPI...

(3) I tried to use Serpent pillow balls, fit perfectly, but you MUST use Serpent steering knuckles along with the bearing, the hub and the dogbone, I haven't try the dogbone and I am not 100% sure the length of the R40 is similar to Serpent 705 style...but I am not sure this conversion does any good....cause Serpent steering hub are $8 each, they rarely get POP out of the pillow balls, but they break where the EARS at....

(4) Their plastic are softer then what I expected....I think too much Serpent poison in my brain....

(5) To remove the engine, you ahve to remove a great wall of china in order to get the enigne out...I will see I can shave some plastic and carbon fiber out and see I can get the engine out easier...

Overall, car does look great....and I feel it is very smooth too (for a belt driven car standard).......alittle smoother then my Impulse PRO..........I have a good feeling on this car, with the SIRIO 15 and Turbo2 pipe, 5 (AAA) batteris......drill alot of holes, cut a lot fo carbon fiber off the radio deck, Serpent shocks........I hope I don't have to drive the NTC3 for a long while.
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Old 06-18-2004, 01:19 PM   #3230
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is that the 2004 spec you have
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Old 06-18-2004, 01:34 PM   #3231
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara


(5) To remove the engine, you ahve to remove a great wall of china in order to get the enigne out...I will see I can shave some plastic and carbon fiber out and see I can get the engine out easier...




lol -great wall of china
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Old 06-18-2004, 02:46 PM   #3232
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How to light up R40?
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Old 06-18-2004, 03:16 PM   #3233
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How to light up R40?
Carbon fiber front rear schock towers, shafts, two spd, radio tray, remove bat box reciver box, chassis, side brace carbon fiber, take you pick.

the 2/spd is a must its .8 module faster accelertaion mor top end, shock towers beter handeling so lots to do it .
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Old 06-18-2004, 03:17 PM   #3234
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Quote:
Originally posted by 20 SMOKE
is that the 2004 spec you have
No....I just got a used one fairly cheap with the LW shafts and carbon towers..........I am using Serpent 4 step shocks (so I don't ahve to study the HPI spring chart and learn how to oil their shocks), CUT a lot of carbon off that radio deck, (5) AAA batteries with no upper batteries cover...carbon fiber receiver mount (so no need to use the enclose receiver box).....then later, the 0.8 module and 1 way...Radio equipment are 9550 steering and 3010 throttle (FastHarry Spec)....

Car will be similar to 2004 spec...only better and a lot cheaper (Japan dealer still asking almost $400 shipped to USA)..........

I think I can deal with the stock chassis.....a little weight more does not bother me....then I might get the carbon side brace from HPI.
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Old 06-18-2004, 03:19 PM   #3235
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How to light up R40?
or.............use NITRO spray over the R40 and a match, that will do it...

(P.S...I just realized that you want to know how to LIGHTEN up the R40....sorry, my bad)....
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Old 06-18-2004, 03:25 PM   #3236
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I picked up another one with every option carbon fiber on it and enough parts to build 2 or three cars.

are the serpent shocks all metal, the side brace i have is the one that looks like it will break easy but it has a beter adjustment for the belt if you run over drive
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Old 06-18-2004, 05:27 PM   #3237
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Is that what you are using or that came with the kit...? THanks..
Thats the Japanese kit stting.
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Old 06-18-2004, 05:35 PM   #3238
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Finally got my R40 on hand, immediately, I stripped the car in 100 pieces...and found out several issue...

(3) I tried to use Serpent pillow balls, fit perfectly, but you MUST use Serpent steering knuckles along with the bearing, the hub and the dogbone, I haven't try the dogbone and I am not 100% sure the length of the R40 is similar to Serpent 705 style...but I am not sure this conversion does any good....cause Serpent steering hub are $8 each, they rarely get POP out of the pillow balls, but they break where the EARS at....

(5) To remove the engine, you ahve to remove a great wall of china in order to get the enigne out...I will see I can shave some plastic and carbon fiber out and see I can get the engine out easier...
Some answers. The serpent steering assembly will change the ackerman which I think will be a bad thing. Stick with the HPI ones. I have not popped one yet, or bend a pivotball for that matter. I dont run at a hard border track very often however.

When I put in the HPI lightened top deck I found I can get the engine out easily by just removing the side brace. They clearanced the top deck just enough that you can lift and twist. Copy the cut from the rear back of the lightened deck and you will be sweet.
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Old 06-19-2004, 03:48 AM   #3239
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
or.............use NITRO spray over the R40 and a match, that will do it...

(P.S...I just realized that you want to know how to LIGHTEN up the R40....sorry, my bad)....

good one
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Old 06-19-2004, 07:57 AM   #3240
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1. you must have gotten a bad batch for the pivot balls. mine have been abused like you wouldnt believe, and they have held up excellent, no tweak, straight as an arrow.

2. it is not as hard as you may tell it. just detach the front shocks from the bottom captured ball end (with some gentle plier prying), remove the 2 long machine screws which are embedded in the frontal rear upper hingepin brace, then remove the 4 frontal upper bulkhead self-tapping screws, and the shock tower from the bulkhead.
the whole front arm assembly should rise up, you can lift the tower up, remove the upper bulkhead, and vuola...
steering assembly, front diff, belts, pulleys, everything, yours for the fixing.

3. the only problem with the stock knuckles is that they tend to flex at the point where the pivot balls exit. CA that area LIGHTLY before installation, and you're done. and even before the CA, it takes a big whack to have the knuckle pop out.

think of it this way, during an intense main, would you rather have your pit guy quickly pop the knuckle back in after a little run around the track? or would u rather have to replace the part in a frenzy and get a DNF?

btw: again, you must have just gotten a bad batch of pivot balls.

4. the snake has bitten you! the r40 is your antidote! (i hope! )

5. you're right about that. but I have come up with an ordered process to remove it. first, remove the plastic side brace. second, remove the screw holding the roll-bar/handle to the left (car facing front in your view) upperdeck support. that should get the radio tray free, you can pull up on it with the handle. the engine should come out with a bit of wiggling.

6. ok, you don't have a 6, so this will be my little room for comments

all the modifications you plan are unnecessary. just drive the car. i'm sure you're a competent driver, a skilled driver, a confident driver. so you won't need all that to drive like you want.
i have found that you control the r40, the r40 doesnt control you. you tell it what to do, it does it. and if it gets a little out of hand, bitch-slap it with the hudy. of course, a bit of lightening couldn't hurt, infact it would help, but doing all these initial modifications before really racing the car for an extended period won't allow you to realise the finer points of the car. it handles

that is all.

Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Finally got my R40 on hand, immediately, I stripped the car in 100 pieces...and found out several issue...

(1) 3 out of 4 pillow balls are BENT (just like NTC3)....is that usual...?

(2) Opening the front diff cover is not AS EASY as HPI said, still 6 screws and the shocks and the whole upper arms, but still, better then the old HPI...

(3) I tried to use Serpent pillow balls, fit perfectly, but you MUST use Serpent steering knuckles along with the bearing, the hub and the dogbone, I haven't try the dogbone and I am not 100% sure the length of the R40 is similar to Serpent 705 style...but I am not sure this conversion does any good....cause Serpent steering hub are $8 each, they rarely get POP out of the pillow balls, but they break where the EARS at....

(4) Their plastic are softer then what I expected....I think too much Serpent poison in my brain....

(5) To remove the engine, you ahve to remove a great wall of china in order to get the enigne out...I will see I can shave some plastic and carbon fiber out and see I can get the engine out easier...

Overall, car does look great....and I feel it is very smooth too (for a belt driven car standard).......alittle smoother then my Impulse PRO..........I have a good feeling on this car, with the SIRIO 15 and Turbo2 pipe, 5 (AAA) batteris......drill alot of holes, cut a lot fo carbon fiber off the radio deck, Serpent shocks........I hope I don't have to drive the NTC3 for a long while.

btw: if anyone cares, i will be at floyd bennet field today, orange/black/silver hpi 350z, riding in a white previa. see you there!!!!!!!!!!
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