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Old 06-02-2004, 04:51 PM   #3031
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Originally posted by tranced
Ahh.. what a pleasure.

Finally got my ass out there to the closest reasonable track.
But one big problem.. 80% run 8th scales there.
Where is this track you speak of?
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Old 06-02-2004, 09:26 PM   #3032
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Originally posted by AMGRacer
It is an awesome upgrade. Follow Harrys link.

What you cannot really tell from the pics are that the silly big locknuts to hold the spurs on are removed, three screws are used instead, and the shoes themselves are around 50% smaller.

The stock unit is around 65g and the 0.8 module is around 45g. Thats 20g right off the rotating mass. I really felt it immediately.
The upgrade sounds good... the 0.8 gearbox will be my next upgrade, after I swap out my screws for alloys... or titanium screws.

AMG, just curious... if using the 0.8 module, can we still use our old spur and pinion gears? I noticed the 0.8 module comes with a 60 sized spur.
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Old 06-02-2004, 09:30 PM   #3033
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Originally posted by stanky626
The upgrade sounds good... the 0.8 gearbox will be my next upgrade, after I swap out my screws for alloys... or titanium screws.

AMG, just curious... if using the 0.8 module, can we still use our old spur and pinion gears? I noticed the 0.8 module comes with a 60 sized spur.
can't use any of the existing clutch or 2spd gears. the new one are a different pitch.
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Old 06-02-2004, 09:41 PM   #3034
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Originally posted by treky11
can't use any of the existing clutch or 2spd gears. the new one are a different pitch.
Yep Trekky has got it. Also the new pinions have a revised alloy that resists stone and rock damage to the gears far better than the original gears do. They are also hard annodised rather than just color annodised.
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Old 06-02-2004, 11:49 PM   #3035
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Default belt tension

What should the correct belt tension be on the center belt? And, would a loose belt cause the rear to spin out?

I was at the track tonight... and the rear was spinning out all night. It mainly spun out on acceleration. But, when i got home, I noticed the belt tensioner was loose.
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Old 06-02-2004, 11:52 PM   #3036
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Originally posted by stanky626
What should the correct belt tension be on the center belt? And, would a loose belt cause the rear to spin out?

I was at the track tonight... and the rear was spinning out all night. It mainly spun out on acceleration. But, when i got home, I noticed the belt tensioner was loose.
Theoretically yes it could. If the belt was so loose you were not getting drive to the front wheels your car was only a RWD and it might spin under power. I have experienced this from a belt breakage before, never from a slipping belt.
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Old 06-03-2004, 10:18 AM   #3037
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Default clutch

What are the fine points of getting the stock clutch to work? I recently found that the sides of the weights have some rough flashing, cleaned it up and it seems to work much better. Also how much gap between the shoe and bell seems to work best. There are no shims called for in the manual between the inside bearing and the threaded piece, but when I build it like this the bell rubs the shoe. Can somebody that really knows what they are doing with a Centax go over their assmebly of this clutch in as much detail as possible?
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Old 06-03-2004, 10:32 AM   #3038
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Default Re: clutch

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Originally posted by OB42TC3
Can somebody that really knows what they are doing with a Centax go over their assmebly of this clutch in as much detail as possible?
You could refer to the Serpent one at mytsn. Although it is for the 710, the main principle behind the Centax assembly is the same.
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Old 06-03-2004, 10:42 AM   #3039
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
You could refer to the Serpent one at mytsn. Although it is for the 710, the main principle behind the Centax assembly is the same.
I know, I just want somebody's perspective on this particular clutch.
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Old 06-03-2004, 10:52 AM   #3040
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ok i just took of my front end and then put it back on, and now i have no suspension travel at all, i think it is my front sway bar is holding it back, but i didnt adjust and thing, so i dk why it is different now. do you guys know anythings that might be makin it do this??
can anybody help me out on this
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Old 06-03-2004, 11:50 AM   #3041
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Default Re: clutch

Quote:
Originally posted by OB42TC3
What are the fine points of getting the stock clutch to work? I recently found that the sides of the weights have some rough flashing, cleaned it up and it seems to work much better. Also how much gap between the shoe and bell seems to work best. There are no shims called for in the manual between the inside bearing and the threaded piece, but when I build it like this the bell rubs the shoe. Can somebody that really knows what they are doing with a Centax go over their assmebly of this clutch in as much detail as possible?
I like the clutch engage earlier for smooth acceleration, so I set the gap between 0.3 - 0.5mm. I don't use shims between the inside bearing and the threaded piece. The shims are only used on the flanged bearing to adjust the gap. I also loose the spring nut as much as possible. But I make sure the spring nut is not rubbing the inside bearing. Hope that helps.
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Old 06-03-2004, 11:53 AM   #3042
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Originally posted by goldenboy
can anybody help me out on this
loosen both the droop screws and bump stop screws and see if that helps.
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Old 06-03-2004, 12:12 PM   #3043
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it does help a little bit, but i didnt adjust anything while i was takin it apart, so i dont know why it wont work the same.
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Old 06-03-2004, 12:49 PM   #3044
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Quote:
Originally posted by goldenboy
can anybody help me out on this
Check to make sure you have the rubber bits that fit into the front shock towers in correctly. They are oval, but one end is up and the other down. There is a little dot on the rubber pieces that faces the front of the car. The dot should be down.

Good luck.
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Old 06-03-2004, 12:58 PM   #3045
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nope, thats not it, they are in correctly
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