AMGRacer

Here is a shot of the graphite rear arms. Notice the additional droop hole and the second position to attach the swaybars (used by Hara at the ROAR nats)

AMGRacer

Here are the graphite arms, better shot.

AMGRacer

Super chassis + graphite arms all around.

AMGRacer

Top down view, can see the nice top deck.

Proteus

Nice car. Looks almost like mine. The only thing different is that I run AE springs and in the car right now I'm breaking in the V12 5 port Murnan mod. The only thing I have left to add is the Kawahara micro clutch. I'll try to post pics some time this week. BTW....what setup are you running?

Proteus

You know...I was wondering if that second hole was an additional hole to run two droop screws (don't see why) or just to relocate the set screw to make access easier especially when you run your rear shocks laid down?

LILROBBY

if anyone is interested, i have a r 40 for sale with air94737 and air94357 servos plus a 1100 mah batt and also a .12r xs motor with two tanks run thru it, please pm me or email me. serious inquires only thanks

PTP Racing

iTrader: (2)

ive always found rear toe is the best way to adjust the rear

3 degrees gives it a really stable high traction rear end

i use 2 degrees for the extra steering

between 2 and 3 makes a huge difference at least on my car

are you talking about when racing at olde town because when i was there there were some really rough spots in the corner that would loosen the rear up alot and adding droop and ride height helped alot

jscamry

iTrader: (5)

how is it going protues, thanks for the tip on using ae springs on the r40..

jason

Proteus

no prob! Hope the car is working for you.

goldenboy

yes i am talkin about old towne, were you there this past weekend?,and i am not really really loose in the rear, i am just a tad bit, so i was seeing if there was anything else i could do to fix it. my car is handling pretty good for driving style, but whenever i punch the throttle the rear wants to kick out.

PTP Racing

iTrader: (2)

no i wasnt there i was at DRCW at the nitro offroad regional part 1

i raced olde towne earlier this year before dougs started like march and those rough sections were really tough to control and also tough on tires

thats why i usually only race at dougs

but at the olde town race i was talking to nigel and he mentioned he was using 8-9mm ride height

try the rear toe though first if your using less than 3 degrees try that and see how you like it

goldenboy

yah i will try more toe in. i raised my ride hight to 6mm, i will try that out.

i am gonna try to go up to dougs, not this sat, but the next.what kind of show up do you guys get at dougs? how many nitro touring mains are there?

AMGRacer

My V12 is just a 3 port, but hey it hammers

As scary as this may seem I am running almost a dead stock setup. The only changes I have made are:

50wt front shock oil and 40wt rear.
Rear swaybar on outer lower linkage.
4 gear rear diff with 30K oil.
-3 front droop and 0 rear.
5mm ride height.
40 shore Monotuning tires at 59mm all around.
Mazda 6 body.

The stock setup is just so dang great I have not bothered to go away from it except for a few tweaks for our higher grip course.

Proteus

Actually, I ran the stock setup that came with the car when I ran on a bigger track. The only difference as far as setups between the stock car and 2004 car is the laid down rear shocks, one way and #4 piston in the rear. Unfortunately, our track is small and tight so my setup is quite different from stock. My car has ALOT of steering in it now and is also setup softer.