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Old 05-17-2004, 08:18 PM   #2896
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our straight is around 120 with a small lead up and a huge sweeper after on throttle 75% or more i guess

most guys run high hp modded engines we have some seriously fast competition here

i was thinking mugen x12 but ive heard they are thirsty

i need some serious hp and still decent fuel mileage

im not sure i can have both thats why i think i may need to go back to 20% nitro
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Old 05-17-2004, 08:20 PM   #2897
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From what I have heard the JP X12 are thirsty. The stock X12 will go 6 and half minutes per tank.
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Old 05-17-2004, 08:40 PM   #2898
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ive talked to a couple different x12 owners and they pretty much all agree it takes a long time to break-in and drinks fuel pretty heavy like all NS based engines (so ive been told)

could it go 6 1/2 minutes under certain conditions im certain it could but in my circumstances im not sure yet

my buddy just got 1 this weekend im going to let him run it some and let me know what he thinks

its definetly very very fast and thats appealling

but with almost everyone at our local track having issues with fuel consumption i want to investigate further
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Old 05-17-2004, 08:56 PM   #2899
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Quote:
Originally posted by PTP Racing
our straight is around 120 with a small lead up and a huge sweeper after on throttle 75% or more i guess

most guys run high hp modded engines we have some seriously fast competition here

i was thinking mugen x12 but ive heard they are thirsty

i need some serious hp and still decent fuel mileage

im not sure i can have both thats why i think i may need to go back to 20% nitro
First up I will say that any NS based motor (like the X12) are awesome. The tuner versions like the MAX or the JP are even more awesome. There is no denying that. Gear them right and they will pull like a freight train. The only thing I would say against them is that they are definately top end biased, you need to keep them on the boil to sit them in their power band. This is why I asked you about how much on throttle you have.

If you are on throttle less than a lot, you can use slightly less powerful motors with a more usable power band. My recommendation in this case is the RB V12 or Rody Tuned V12. These motors I am pretty sure have less total power than the NS type. However they have a very strong bottom end and an incredible mid range which really makes a great difference out of slower corners and mid straight. You will likely get pulled in the top end by a NS motor. However the RB has far less agressive crank and sleeve porting which naturally leads to less fuel consumption and also has a secondary benefit of easier tuning. Also the RBs can sit and idle for a long time before loading up. Lastly a benefit of some sort is they pull less RPM. Why is this a benefit? If you are club racing I assume you want engine life, less RPM = less wear on rod and sleeve.

In any event if you want to pay premium price a MAX or JP FX will be awesome. I personally chose the RB since it has a lower cost of ownership (AUD$320 for the motor and $150 for a rebuild vs AUD $650 for the JP and $300 for a rebuild) and I run at a club level 99% of the time.
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Old 05-18-2004, 05:29 AM   #2900
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Quote:
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Thanks for the info!

Front end push. I assume you are running a one way? Where does it push, into or mid corner? On power it will push with 10K in the rear in good traction for sure.

The new rear arms are awesome, the droop locations are much more convienient, and I like attaching the swaybars on the outer linkage points. Give the arms more leverage on the bar itself.

With your belts I dunno. I run a RB V12 which is a torquey motor, with the Red Rulon shoes on a good traction track which has 8 180 degree hard acceleration corners. Mine has so far held up. Do you know why they are crapping out?
The push comes more mid corner. I would like to say I'm pushing going into a turn....but maybe just slowing down a bit might work. But then again...even people have noticed that I can't carry enough corner speed. This weekend I'm going to try using some drag brake....as I really hate to use brakes. I control my throttle enough where I only use as much as I need; most of the time. As for the belts....I have no idea why they can't last. NCC said he had a problem when he was running a 6.5mm carb insert. With that insert he was going through belts really fast, so he went back down to the stock insert. It seems that with modified motors or high hp motors, belt wear is accelerated. The mugen belts don't seem to have the problem.
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Old 05-18-2004, 05:04 PM   #2901
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I wonder if you guys can recommend me brands of foam tire (link would be appreciated).

I am starting to race in California and wonder what kind of tire are recommended for the R40.
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Old 05-18-2004, 05:09 PM   #2902
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The stock tires really aren't that bad. They're just expensive.

Fast Tires, Power Tires, Ellegi Tires and some other ones are basically the same brand. I highly recommend those.

Although, Nitro Shoes are pretty good tires also. But I prefer to run spoked rims
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Old 05-18-2004, 05:14 PM   #2903
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im using the hpi tires and they are pretty good

sometimes i also run speedmind

when purchasing pay attention foam tires can be confusing

most brands will have different front and rears

look for a 26mm front and a 30mm rear probably around 37 shore is a good place to start
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Old 05-18-2004, 05:24 PM   #2904
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Quote:
Originally posted by Proteus
The push comes more mid corner. I would like to say I'm pushing going into a turn....but maybe just slowing down a bit might work. But then again...even people have noticed that I can't carry enough corner speed. This weekend I'm going to try using some drag brake....as I really hate to use brakes. I control my throttle enough where I only use as much as I need; most of the time. As for the belts....I have no idea why they can't last. NCC said he had a problem when he was running a 6.5mm carb insert. With that insert he was going through belts really fast, so he went back down to the stock insert. It seems that with modified motors or high hp motors, belt wear is accelerated. The mugen belts don't seem to have the problem.
Mid corner push usually does not indicate you are going too fast on entry. Usually if you are pushing mid corner it means that your front end is not getting enough weight transfer. Running a one-way will help, as will a softer front end or lighter shock oil. Possibly more camber will give the front end more side bite.

Interesting info on the belt wear. I will be installing a RB V15 soon, if this motor dont kill the belts nothing will.
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Old 05-18-2004, 08:23 PM   #2905
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Quote:
Originally posted by DOMOisCOOL
The stock tires really aren't that bad. They're just expensive.

Fast Tires, Power Tires, Ellegi Tires and some other ones are basically the same brand. I highly recommend those.

Although, Nitro Shoes are pretty good tires also. But I prefer to run spoked rims
Domo,

where are you buying your tire from?

Hey by the way, what do you think about running that R40 at RAMS club June 13. If you didn't saw that club running, you'll love it. They have the ROAR national at the end of july. So this club is really popular this year. If you feel like it we could practice from time to time and share a tent there!!!
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Old 05-18-2004, 08:33 PM   #2906
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Ill race definately this summer

I personally haven't checked out RAMS yet though, when are the races?

Oh yeah, I buy my tires from overseas in HK. But everyone now is having problems with them. Good thing I got them before. RC Tech in Daly City has the HPI Foams, Nitro Shoes, and Yokomo Foams. Their tires are reasonably priced but can be over priced at times. HPI Foams cost 18 a pair
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Old 05-18-2004, 09:05 PM   #2907
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I just installed the lightweigh battery pack into the car and removed the battery box, transponder mount and I will remove the handle. Overall I saved around 50g just by doing those simple changes.
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Old 05-18-2004, 09:08 PM   #2908
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AMGRacer, can you post a pic of the battery box mod?

I did the mod also, but taking out the battery and putting it back in is a bit troublesome because there is nothing holding on the part the screws go into.

Ill post a pic of mine tomorrow.
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Old 05-18-2004, 09:59 PM   #2909
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Quote:
Originally posted by DOMOisCOOL
AMGRacer, can you post a pic of the battery box mod?

I did the mod also, but taking out the battery and putting it back in is a bit troublesome because there is nothing holding on the part the screws go into.

Ill post a pic of mine tomorrow.
I bolted the battery door to the chassis, so it cannot be removed from below now. You need to take off the top deck. But I never take my battery out anyways so I am not too worried.
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Old 05-18-2004, 09:59 PM   #2910
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Domoiscool- You got to try Monotuning tires!!! I told Lawerence and Terrence to start stocking them. I tried them this weekend and man ohhhh man. First of all NO CHUNKING. I was putting my car through some crazy turns. And the car was hooked.... One pair of tires lasted through the day (no races at delta just some track time). I never had tires like that. I was skeptical but I'm a believer now......... I haven't picked up my other JP from MILF (don't think I forgot about you )..... I'm going to race Delta this year and Rams next.... I'll be there to watch the Nat's and support my Mugen drivers........oh $##$% I'm on a R-40 thread
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