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Old 04-30-2004, 06:58 PM   #2671
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got my shock towers bolted on last night and i especially like the rear it just looks trick how the shocks are moved

thats gotta be why the handling is improved

now if i could only afford the other crap i want
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Old 04-30-2004, 07:11 PM   #2672
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Default Re: Houston we have a problem...

Quote:
Originally posted by Frag
Houston we have a problem.... serious problem.


I am surely not the first one to get that one!!! I can't believe it.

While setting up up my servos link on the R40, I saw that my slide carburator (RB Concept X12 Rody Modified) hit the base of the fuel tank (near the back pin that hold the tank) and cannot be wide opened

I cannot turn the carb much more...

It's a novarossi based carb, so someone surely had the same problem. I can provide pictures if you have no clues of what I am talking about.

For this one ...I am clueless!!!
I also had the same problem. I just took my dremel and carefully notched the small area on the tank where the slide hit. There seems to be a fair bit of excess plastic there. Cut away too much and the tank will leak.
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Old 04-30-2004, 07:35 PM   #2673
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BTW,anyone kmow where to get a lightweight battery pack?...Trinity has them,but not in the flat style...
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Old 04-30-2004, 08:29 PM   #2674
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Default HELP! on part with +2

anyone of you guys tried the rear mount with +2? im talking about where the rear steel shaft or hinge pin is connected. the kit came with 2 kinds of mount "0" and "+2". thats where the whole rear part is mounted/screwed, the one in between the chassis and the whole rear part. what would be the difference if i put the one with +2? on performance? on handling? please shed some light on this thanks!

i do believe that if i use the +2 mount i also have to install the one in the front where the upperlink is connected the extra rubber thing where the hinge pin is connected, its the rubber secured on the shock tower. Also the spacer that will be installed in between the upperdeck and front bulk.

fastharry, rookie, anyone.. need help on this!
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Old 04-30-2004, 09:07 PM   #2675
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Default Re: HELP! on part with +2

Quote:
Originally posted by neptunes
anyone of you guys tried the rear mount with +2? im talking about where the rear steel shaft or hinge pin is connected. the kit came with 2 kinds of mount "0" and "+2". thats where the whole rear part is mounted/screwed, the one in between the chassis and the whole rear part. what would be the difference if i put the one with +2? on performance? on handling? please shed some light on this thanks!

i do believe that if i use the +2 mount i also have to install the one in the front where the upperlink is connected the extra rubber thing where the hinge pin is connected, its the rubber secured on the shock tower. Also the spacer that will be installed in between the upperdeck and front bulk.
That will raise the rear roll center, you would use softer springs than what you were using. Raising the rear roll center is what you want in general on a nitro touring car to counter the high cg of the engine. It has a similar effect to using harder rear springs, the best thing would be to just try it.
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Old 04-30-2004, 09:10 PM   #2676
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
BTW,anyone kmow where to get a lightweight battery pack?...Trinity has them,but not in the flat style...
I just used 5 aaa nimhs that you can get about anywhere; then i ground the batt case a little to get them to fit in flat. Anyone know how much voltage receivers will take? B/C a 2 cell lithium polymer pack would be really light.
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Old 05-01-2004, 01:26 AM   #2677
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Quote:
Originally posted by PTP Racing
amg are those hpi parts?
Yep sure are.
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Old 05-01-2004, 01:32 AM   #2678
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Quote:
Originally posted by goldenboy
fast harry was right on everyting, i got the new shock towers about 2 weeks ago and i raced last weekend and the car was just sooo much better, not really sure why the shock towers helped, but they did. also i run sidwinder prorace blend 30/10% and i will never go back to any other fuel, i love it now. i used to use monster, but now that =junk, and blue thunder has always =junk

amg, do you know when those parts are coming out, i already have the sideplate , but what about the tit. pivot balls?
Yep I totally agree the shock towers are awesome. Transforms the car totally.

The parts are released in Japan in May. When they hit the US not sure.
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Old 05-01-2004, 06:00 AM   #2679
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
Yep I totally agree the shock towers are awesome. Transforms the car totally.

The parts are released in Japan in May. When they hit the US not sure.
AMG..have you tried the 4 gear rear yet?.......Thats my next step...

BTW,I just picked the 9550 servo..very sweet.....Futaba also makes a 3010 servo.......90 oz of tq......and a .16 transit time....Top ball bearing.....and get this...weighs 41 grams...only 23 bucks......might make a great throttle servo..esp with the high tourque.....and LOW weight....
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Old 05-01-2004, 09:51 AM   #2680
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fast harry you can get 1 from rdlogics.com cheapest price ive seen
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Old 05-01-2004, 04:27 PM   #2681
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Quote:
Originally posted by PTP Racing
fast harry you can get 1 from rdlogics.com cheapest price ive seen
which one did you get,the RD logics one,or the Mugen one..??
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Old 05-01-2004, 06:49 PM   #2682
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i dont have one yet

last year i used a rdlogics pack in my mtx3 and in my mbx5

but when i was building the r40 it said use a regular pack so thats what i bought not realizing i was building a tank

my car with fuel w/o body weighs 1885g even after graphite towers hollow shafts and a 1 way still way too heavy
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Old 05-01-2004, 07:16 PM   #2683
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It may be heavy,but it runs great,right..there are certain advantages to driving a heavier car...

When I was running my TC'3's last year,the slightet tap fron an Impulse would spin the car,or flip...

A guy showed up with a 710 the other night....whenver he got next to the r40..on his roof he went......
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Old 05-01-2004, 07:38 PM   #2684
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AMGRacer can you tell me the width of your rear camber turnbuckle link (as seen in instruction manual specification: "6mm")? The length im looking for is from the inside edge of one ball cup to the other.

Stock, as you said earlier, is -6 degrees, which is very much obscene.. you said you had -3, which is what i'm shooting for, i have an outdated hudy setup so i have to go by measurements, etc..

if you can get that length for me, its much appreciated.
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Old 05-01-2004, 07:42 PM   #2685
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Well guys, I did the "battery box" mod. I simply cut 1/4 of the battery box (where the screw holes are) and zip tied/arranged the wires. Then I shoe-goo-ed the battery to the battery cover.

I did this because of the wire clearance. When I had the battery box, I had to route it through the box. So when I put the battery in, the wires would make the battery cover "bulge" out making the chassis uneven.
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