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Old 03-26-2004, 01:31 PM   #2161
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Quote:
Originally posted by mtveten
Does anyone know where I can order the 04 conversion kit? Is it even out yet in Japan, I though it was scheduled for a late March release over.
You can let us here know if you can find the conversion and 04 spec kit........(not even HK has a word of those...)
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Old 03-26-2004, 03:45 PM   #2162
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Quote:
Originally posted by icon
been a while since i've visited this thread. i've been working on my Super Nitro lately. is that 2004 edition R40 out yet?

AMGRacer:

need a bit of your wisdom and experience. i know you still have your V One RR, but have you seen the FW05R run against the R40's?
Hey Icon. Sorry I have never seen that matchup myself.
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Old 03-26-2004, 04:19 PM   #2163
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Originally posted by AMGRacer
I hope they dont go all graphite, it is just not required
Thats the way I feel about most of the complaining people have done about the weight of the car. I just don't think that the average joe is going to notice a few grams here or a few grams there in weight savings. Whether it be in sprung weight, unsprung weight, or in the drivetrain. Not when their car is being yanked by 1.5hp. I only asked about the bulkheads because the talk here has centered so much around saving weight, that if you aren't talking about that, then there aint much to discuss!

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in fact the graphite parts are much more brittle. Arms are useful to reduce unsprung mass, but graphite arms will explode or crack on hard hits.
Yeah, thats why I never use them on any of my cars. Although I must admit that the graphite arms, hubs, and bulkheads that Trinity used on their Team Only ReflexNT seem to hold up pretty well under some pretty heavy hits I've seen them take.
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Old 03-26-2004, 04:26 PM   #2164
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Originally posted by AMGRacer
............. And some red compound clutch shoes

BTW I emailed Delta about their red clutch shoes for the R40 and got no response. Anybody in the US got a hookup with that company?
Speaking of the clutch, I've heard a lot of people speaking of replacing clutch parts or the entire clutch on this car with ones from other kits. I figured it was something wrong with this one, but now that I've run the car, I'm at a loss to figure whats wrong with the stock HPI clutch?

I've heard of those Delta shoes before, but I've forgotten what made them so special? Longer life span, better engagement, what? I know the people who use them love them, just can't remember what the benefits were...
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Old 03-26-2004, 05:52 PM   #2165
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i agree the stock clutch seems to be perfectly fine

my last car was a mtx3 and frankly i dont notice any difference in clutch operation

seems to work very well and adjust properly (in fact easier IMO to adjust)

i hope to really be able to get dailed in tommorrow the local track has finally been reopened after renovations and hopefully i will be able to get some serious track time before the first race of the season
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Old 03-26-2004, 06:01 PM   #2166
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Quote:
Originally posted by Darkseid
Speaking of the clutch, I've heard a lot of people speaking of replacing clutch parts or the entire clutch on this car with ones from other kits. I figured it was something wrong with this one, but now that I've run the car, I'm at a loss to figure whats wrong with the stock HPI clutch?

I've heard of those Delta shoes before, but I've forgotten what made them so special? Longer life span, better engagement, what? I know the people who use them love them, just can't remember what the benefits were...
The stock clutch is basically too heavy. If you compare its size and mass to others such as the MTX3, G4 or FW05R clutch you will see how much bigger it is. It works great however.

The Delta shoes are made from a particular material which is long lasting but more importantly does not slip on the bell. The stock HPI shoes are a teflon style which gives more slip than I like.
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Old 03-26-2004, 06:18 PM   #2167
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Got it...

This was my first centax style clutch, so I have nothing to compare it to as far as weight or slippage. Once I finished my final engine tuning, I started to play with the clutch. I can't believe how easy this thing is to adjust. All it took was to insert an allen wrence through the hole in the clutch bell and turn the fly wheel. Like most first time centax users, it was too lose from when I first built it. I think I tightened the nut in 3/4 of a turn and it was perfect.

Speaking of the FW-05, I'm kinda disappointed that we don't have anyone running one locally. I would have liked to see one in person.
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Old 03-26-2004, 07:30 PM   #2168
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Default clutch changes

Darkseid,
I changed my clutch after the first 2 tanks of fuel through the car. Even with all of the modifications to the clutch with weights and tweaking, it lacked in acceleration(snap). I use the Kawahara clutch for the Vone rr/ Mugen Mtx3, the flywheel is ultra small, and looks like jewelery. The operation of the clutch is far superior to that of the stock one, also the stock one blows bearings big time!
I have expierenced a problem that I am not happy about. This is the second servo case that I have broken for the steering servo. I want to make a support for the servo so it does not take a hit, has anyone else expierenced this? Any ideas?
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Old 03-26-2004, 08:24 PM   #2169
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Default Re: clutch changes

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Originally posted by Vr6vroom
it lacked in acceleration(snap).
See, mine didn't lack in snap at all. After loosening the nut a little from kit suggestion, it was quite snappy. Certainly put my old 3 shoe clutch from my Reflex days to shame. Of course I prefer my clutch to engage smoothly as well as have a good amount of punch. I've driven other guys cars where they had the clutch set so that they were getting wheel spin coming out of corners if they weren't careful on the throttle. Thats not what I'm looking for.
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Old 03-26-2004, 08:31 PM   #2170
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Default Re: clutch changes

Quote:
Originally posted by Vr6vroom
Darkseid,
I changed my clutch after the first 2 tanks of fuel through the car. Even with all of the modifications to the clutch with weights and tweaking, it lacked in acceleration(snap). I use the Kawahara clutch for the Vone rr/ Mugen Mtx3, the flywheel is ultra small, and looks like jewelery. The operation of the clutch is far superior to that of the stock one, also the stock one blows bearings big time!
I have expierenced a problem that I am not happy about. This is the second servo case that I have broken for the steering servo. I want to make a support for the servo so it does not take a hit, has anyone else expierenced this? Any ideas?
I have not blown a bearing yet after a fair bit of race work. Mayby your end float was a little high?

I agree on the snap part. If your track has the grip and you are using foams you can definately exceed the grip of the teflon shoe. However I modified a Mugen Gredy shoe to fit very easily and that added a ton of snap.

As for the servo case the easiest fix is to use a Futaba 9550 servo. It hardly protrudes beyond the stock top deck. WIth a stock servo you are always going to run some risk. Most latest generation tourers have a similar problem however.
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Old 03-26-2004, 08:33 PM   #2171
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Default Re: Re: clutch changes

Quote:
Originally posted by Darkseid
See, mine didn't lack in snap at all. After loosening the nut a little from kit suggestion, it was quite snappy. Certainly put my old 3 shoe clutch from my Reflex days to shame. Of course I prefer my clutch to engage smoothly as well as have a good amount of punch. I've driven other guys cars where they had the clutch set so that they were getting wheel spin coming out of corners if they weren't careful on the throttle. Thats not what I'm looking for.
Depends on your track man. 2 years ago we were setting clutches on MTX2s for a given local track at 0.3mm endfloat with 2.2mm on the adjuster nut with the Mugen Grey shoes. That is a HIGH setting and the cars went like a scalded cat. At my normal track it would be doing just circle work.
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Old 03-26-2004, 08:44 PM   #2172
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Default Ah HA!

A 9550 you say , why didnt I think of that. I am using the airtronic 97358, which is a high toque high speed servo. But I will be buying one of those tommorrow.!!!! Thanks Amg.
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Old 03-26-2004, 10:00 PM   #2173
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hey all what is the term end float that you are speaking of?

J.
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Old 03-26-2004, 10:17 PM   #2174
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Default Re: Re: Re: clutch changes

Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
...the cars went like a scalded cat.
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Old 03-26-2004, 10:28 PM   #2175
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Originally posted by jscamry
hey all what is the term end float that you are speaking of?

J.
I think he may be speaking of the amount of end play left after you finish shimming the end bell. Kit reccomendations are for .2-.5mm I believe.

I started with the .5mm, but didn't like it so I added a gold shim (the thinnest kit supplied shim) and that took remove all but the slightest movement. But since I also shimmed mine behind the clutch bell bearing (unlike what the instructions call for) I don't have to worry about clutch drag even with only a .2-.3mm gap.

I still can't figure out why HPI left out key details like shimming behind the clutch bell and the fact that their thrust bearing actually has a direction it needs to be inserted in. Thank goodness we have message boards to save us from oversights like those in instruction manuals!
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