R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-11-2004, 02:53 PM   #1921
Tech Addict
 
CraigH's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Kansas City MO
Posts: 519
Default

Quote:
Last time when it happened on R40.....USA has it like 4 weeks after with almost $40 more then the price right now.
That would be just about perfect timing. $300 for that car is a great deal. Any idea if the 0.8 gears come with it?
CraigH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2004, 02:58 PM   #1922
Regional Moderator
 
Darkseid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: At my computer, duh...
Posts: 9,033
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Look, I don't think anyone was trying turn this into a bash Hitec servo's spot, but the proof is in the pudding. Go check out the Hitec forum. They have so many complaints about servos that glitch, stop working, stop centering, or breaking gears including the metal gear units, that its not even funny.

I'm not trying to stop anyone from using anything, but I've only had one Hitec servo, and that was enough for me. Great price...yeah, lifetime warranty...great, same quality as Air/Sanwa, Fut, and KO....don't think so.

I love the Hitec Lynx 3D that I own, but even that had problems with faulty case materials. Hitec can make some great stuff, but their quality isn't up to par in my opinion.
__________________
TLR 22...Tamiya F104...
Darkseid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2004, 03:12 PM   #1923
Tech Elite
 
AMGRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 3,939
Default

Let me tell you about my Hitec story(s)........

I initially ran 2 x 605BB in my HPI racer 2. I got around 3 months from the throttle servo and it just died during a raceday, luckily I was braking at the time. Replaced it.

Then I had them both in my V1R with a RTU MT12. During a raceday the throttle servo again crapped out but at full throttle, did a runaway and killed my $300 RTU which was practically new. Replaced it (with Hitec again!).

My Lynx 3D got some overspray from some electric motor cleanign spray, the case got damaged. I replaced my 605BBs after BOTH died when I turned on the power one day with 2 x futaba 9450s and found that my Lynx 3D was not centring properly and causing my servos to glitch (only noticed it with digital servos due to their more accurate nature). Sold the 3D.

Now I have a 2 year old M8 which is still rock solid after weekly abuse with my gas tourer, electric tourer and B4. My Futaba 9450s are still going strong after over 2 years. In fact my 3 other futabab servos are also working fine with around 1 to 2 years on them as well.

Does Hitec suck? Dunno. But ALL my Hitec gear failed within the year of purchase, my Futaba and Airtronics gear is still going with WAY more hardcore usage than the Hitecs ever saw.
AMGRacer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2004, 03:22 PM   #1924
Tech Elite
 
AMGRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 3,939
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by CraigH
That would be just about perfect timing. $300 for that car is a great deal. Any idea if the 0.8 gears come with it?
Current R40 owners dont despair! There is a conversion kit which contains EVERYTHING you need for the conversion except the titanium screwset, that includes the 0.8 module gears. The 0.8 module gears also come with the 2004 kit. The conversion kit should only run 100-120 bux which is pretty darned good. The best part of this is you will have all the spares left over from your converted car.

I am not a huge fan of 0.8 module gears in fact, as my V1R was eating them up very quickly. The certainly wear and get damaged much faster than the stock gears.
AMGRacer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2004, 03:35 PM   #1925
Tech Elite
 
AMGRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 3,939
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by nero1943
I guess I will keep the R40 and build from there. I guess with the new 2004 version of R40. I can probably get some cheap set from ebay in the future.

This is what I am thinkin to use with the R40:

R40
JR XS3
fuel filter
venom temp guage
venom fail safe
Custom 5 cell flat pack 1100mah
HPI SF-2 servo 90oz/.16sec @6v Throttle
Hitec 625MG Steering
motor saver filter

Novarossi NS12S3 or S5
no clue on what pipe and mainfold


anybody got any tips during the building process?? should I use stock diff oil? Also does the 4 spyder gear necessary? I did it on my savage and it feels better. ( probably just inside my head )
Dont worry about the fuel filter, the tank is already filtered. Only get the filter if you want the extra volume to compensate for the small tank. I have been running filterless with filtered tanks for over 4 years and NEVER had a scratch in any of my engines.

I would not get the Venom temp gauge either. Tuning by temperature is not the way to go and it will cause you to chase settings in my experience. Get a temp gun from www.tempgun.com they are much more useful (you can measure track temps and how hot your dogs head is as well) Learn to tune by listening to the motor and getting a feel for the performance. Then use the temp gun after the run to ensure it is not too hot.

If you are going to seriously race, dont get the flat pack. Get the small hump pack and save 40 grams.

I would not use the motorsaver filter unless you really want to. The Mugen and Ellegi filters are much cheaper and last a long time if you clean them right. Almost all the pros use these filters since the air intake surface area is huge.

Those Novarossi motors you mentioned are AWESOME and not too hard to tune, BUT have you ever broken an engine in before? If not you will very likely do it wrong, or at least not totally right. Also Novas are quite sensitive to weather changes. Lastly those engines make HUGE power, more power = you better have the right tires and your chassis set up right. What I would do is to get a cheaper OS motor first like the TR. This should run you only $120 and they are much easier to break in and tune. Also the milder powerband will save your car from many broken pieces.
AMGRacer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2004, 04:16 PM   #1926
Tech Elite
 
AMGRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 3,939
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by PTP Racing
i have almost finished building my new r40 but have a couple questions

how much droop should i use?

i couldnt figure a way to get all my wires through the battery box so i removed the top and double sided taped the pack to the tray and put it in with screws and nuts but the front of the tray isnt secured

are your cars similiar or is there a better way?

also my personal transponder wire wasnt long enough to use the transponder mount so i double sided taped the transponder on the radio tray above the servo

anyone got some pictures?
I would set the droop as per the kit specs for now. Start with a lot and reduce it gradually until you have no traction then go back up a little.

The wires do not go through the battery box, the run over the top of it in front of the fuel tank. There are two little posts which come off the top of the battery box. These are used to locate the wires as you run them over. Do not leave the battery box cover unsecured at the front it will catch and flip your car for sure.

Most personals will not run all the way to the mount, you will need an extension or locate it elsewhere as you have done.
AMGRacer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2004, 04:34 PM   #1927
Tech Elite
 
PTP Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 2,699
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

thanks amg racer i am going to change the wires tonight when i get home

shoulda been paying closer attention i guess

seems like a great car from the looks of it i cant imagine breaking anything

as the season progresses i am going to lighten it up a bit especially the drivetrain
__________________
Paycheck to Paycheck Racing
Jason Miller
PTP Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2004, 04:52 PM   #1928
Tech Elite
 
AMGRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 3,939
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by PTP Racing
thanks amg racer i am going to change the wires tonight when i get home

shoulda been paying closer attention i guess

seems like a great car from the looks of it i cant imagine breaking anything

as the season progresses i am going to lighten it up a bit especially the drivetrain
Oh you can break it trust me But you have to hit it pretty hard to do it
AMGRacer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2004, 08:26 PM   #1929
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 77
Default

thanks for the feed back guys..

First of all, This is not like first or second or thrid r/c car. I am an onroad newbie. The reason I"m planning to use a hitec servo because I have those sitting on the table. I never had any problem with my JR XS3 failing. I guess I will wait for the kit to arrive and start from there.
nero1943 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2004, 08:35 PM   #1930
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 77
Default

oh I also have a temp gun. I was thinkin to use the temp gauge because somehow I find it hard to check the temp on the on road cars. The cooling head is hiding inside the body. I've broken in quite a few engines. RB C5, WS7II, Sirio .27, wasp .26, etc.. Mostly big blocks.


i'm just curious how does your hitec servos die that fast? I use a couple hitec on my buggy and monster trucks. I never had any problems and I bash hard. I never had any problems. I have 645, 625, 5945, 5645 and I never had any of them failed. Maybe I am just lucky????
nero1943 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2004, 08:54 PM   #1931
Tech Elite
 
AMGRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 3,939
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by nero1943
oh I also have a temp gun. I was thinkin to use the temp gauge because somehow I find it hard to check the temp on the on road cars. The cooling head is hiding inside the body. I've broken in quite a few engines. RB C5, WS7II, Sirio .27, wasp .26, etc.. Mostly big blocks.


i'm just curious how does your hitec servos die that fast? I use a couple hitec on my buggy and monster trucks. I never had any problems and I bash hard. I never had any problems. I have 645, 625, 5945, 5645 and I never had any of them failed. Maybe I am just lucky????
OK so you know what you are doing engine wise, go with the Novarossi. Most temp guns can shoot through the hole you cut in the body for the glow starter.

If you like Hitec and they last for you then great! Everybody has different experience with different equipment.
AMGRacer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2004, 09:07 PM   #1932
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Melbourne, FL
Posts: 787
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to kreidel
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Nrctc3
a Hitec servo would work just fine! I've been using Hitec for as long as I've been racing. I'e never had one fail etheir. And if they do you can just send them back to be repaired or replaced for free! Gotta love the lifetime warranty!
I think Hitec servos are crap. If someone gave me one I wouldnt waste my time installing it in anything I owned. Does this seem harsh?? Probally, but I have owned alot of their servos before but never again! Buy Futaba or Airtronics and be done!
kreidel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2004, 09:30 PM   #1933
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 77
Default

hehe I guess I will just use the hitec's since I already have them. I will use them until the crap out and switch to something else.
nero1943 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2004, 09:43 PM   #1934
Tech Elite
 
AMGRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 3,939
Default

So there were some R40s at the winternats.................



Image from www.winternats.com
AMGRacer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2004, 05:53 AM   #1935
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 61
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
So there were some R40s at the winternats.................



Image from www.winternats.com
Is it me, or does that only seem to happen right after you put a new body on? haha It's so disheartening to see that when your driving.
burger is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New on Nitro and this forum Emaxx rider Rookie Zone 8 02-06-2008 07:21 AM
HPI Nitro MT 2 Forum Tom P Electric Off-Road 5 07-19-2004 06:26 PM
New Nitro R/C Forum Dantherc10man Web Links 0 08-09-2003 07:39 AM
Nitro car forum Rose Money Singapore R/C Racers 47 07-04-2002 08:49 PM
Nitro Forum ART2 Singapore R/C Racers 41 05-16-2002 10:51 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 12:06 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net