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Old 01-27-2004, 11:21 AM   #1486
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Wished mine would have worked at that angle. Mine kept hitting the tank or the handle in which I could not achieve full throttle or if I did, it would hang and be big problem (tested on the starter box and not at the track, thank goodness). Like Darkseid stated, unless I point out the cut on the deck, no one notices. Now, if we could get HPI to package the front blocks, rear blocks, front suspension arms, and rear suspension arms is their own separate packages like Associated and Mugen, it would be a benefit to all (I hate having extra parts that will never be used unless the car is completely demolished).
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Old 01-27-2004, 11:24 AM   #1487
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Quote:
Originally posted by The Sleeper
can you get to that low end mixture screw?
For him, very carefully. Mine is angled more. I angle mine to the point the where I can just a flathead on the idle screw but have an unobstructed path to the low-end needle screw through the front cooling hole.
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Old 01-27-2004, 02:32 PM   #1488
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Quote:
Originally posted by JLock
Now, if we could get HPI to package the front blocks, rear blocks, front suspension arms, and rear suspension arms is their own separate packages like Associated and Mugen, it would be a benefit to all (I hate having extra parts that will never be used unless the car is completely demolished).

Man who are you telling. I used to own a Tamiya F201. And as anyone who owned that car knows, you break a front suspension arm, your going to get a bunch of other stuff with it! I had about four sets battery retainers that I'll never use!

I would definitely prefer to have the parts off the trees....but the price is still low, so I wont complain.

I kinda like the way Trinity did with their ReflexNT. They had a parts package that they put together that had all the most replaced parts in it. Arms, belts, pulleys, hinge pins, body mounts, etc... It went for like $100, but it had everything that you needed all in one. I would like to see something like that from HPI.
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Old 01-27-2004, 02:36 PM   #1489
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Quote:
Originally posted by JLock
For him, very carefully. Mine is angled more. I angle mine to the point the where I can just a flathead on the idle screw but have an unobstructed path to the low-end needle screw through the front cooling hole.
Same here...

The idle screw is clearly in reach...as long as you approach from the right angle. And the other needles are all pretty easy to get to.

I think other than the fact that the Sirio carb is so big, I think its also an issue of throw. The slide carb throw on the Sirio carb is so long that the angle that Tranced used, simply wouldn't work for us. But alls well that ends well. We got it in there...thats what important.
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Old 01-27-2004, 02:56 PM   #1490
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Quote:
Originally posted by icon
amg:

1. why did you have to twist the carb to make it work? the JP RS12 would use a modified nova carb but it should have similar external dimensions as the stocker.

2. do you mean HPI's light weight receiver pack? how is it not fitting?
Hey Icon,

Yep I need to revise my carb so it is similar to tranceds. This will solve my problem here I think.

I have a generic brand lightweight receiver pack. It is 19mm tall and the battery box on the HPI is 20mm deep with a 2mm door so it misses by 1mm. I can only assume that the HPI pack is slightly more compact.
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Old 01-27-2004, 02:59 PM   #1491
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Quote:
Originally posted by tranced
Thanks tranced, my carb is too far rotated, I can adjust the angle of the ball joint.

The manual could use a little more explaination here methinks.
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Old 01-27-2004, 04:16 PM   #1492
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Yes AMGRacer, you thinks right. I had to play the "one engine in, one engine out, one engine in and you shake it all about" more than I cared to before I did the notch mod on my upper deck. I should have just shimmed the engine on the motor mounts instead; would have been easier. From what I can tell, the carb thing is just a problem with the Sirio motor. I have a friend and a teammate running a MT12 and Rossi respectfully and they did not have this problem.
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Old 01-27-2004, 04:39 PM   #1493
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Quote:
Originally posted by JLock
Yes AMGRacer, you thinks right. I had to play the "one engine in, one engine out, one engine in and you shake it all about" more than I cared to before I did the notch mod on my upper deck. I should have just shimmed the engine on the motor mounts instead; would have been easier. From what I can tell, the carb thing is just a problem with the Sirio motor. I have a friend and a teammate running a MT12 and Rossi respectfully and they did not have this problem.
Yep the Nova for sure will not require notching. But the way I did it (following the manual directions of "rotate the carb until linkage fits") made it not possible to adjust the idle needle which I was not crazy about. Tranced has it right
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Old 01-27-2004, 05:02 PM   #1494
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JLock: I think we did the right thing with the notch. Shimming the engine up isn't the best thing. If you have a newer Sirio like i do, with the taller blue head, it already sits high enough. The last thing it needs is to be shimmed up higher!
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Old 01-27-2004, 05:29 PM   #1495
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by the way, as you can see i used permatex gasket maker.

its red, but the label says do not use with gasoline.

i can only assume nitro is a whole lot harsher then gasoline..

what do you guys use to seal ur hsn assembly up ?
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Old 01-27-2004, 05:30 PM   #1496
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
Yep the Nova for sure will not require notching. But the way I did it (following the manual directions of "rotate the carb until linkage fits") made it not possible to adjust the idle needle which I was not crazy about. Tranced has it right
i am not a useless flamer after all!

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Old 01-27-2004, 05:35 PM   #1497
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Quote:
Originally posted by tranced
by the way, as you can see i used permatex gasket maker.

its red, but the label says do not use with gasoline.

i can only assume nitro is a whole lot harsher then gasoline..

what do you guys use to seal ur hsn assembly up ?
I dont. I just run it naked and I never have had a problem touch wood. Do not tighten the HSN very tight or it will leak.
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Old 01-27-2004, 05:37 PM   #1498
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Quote:
Originally posted by tranced
i am not a useless flamer after all!

Yep, lets keep the useful R40 tips and experiences happening!
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Old 01-27-2004, 05:47 PM   #1499
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I've never used anything on my HSN assembly. Never had a need for it. When I move the fuel inlet, I just tighten everything back down snuggly without really cranking on it.

As AMG said, knock on wood, no problems with any of my engines leaking air there yet. But when I have sealed my engines up, like the back plate on my old OFNA engine, I used a blue type of sealant.

Its called:
Permatex
Ultra Blue

Sensor-safe
RTV Silicone
Gasket Maker


Its a product made by Loctite.

Its always worked for me and doesn't seem to have any bad reactions to nitro fuel.
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Old 01-27-2004, 06:11 PM   #1500
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ahh ok.

its because i dissasembled my carb for cleaning and resetting the needles, and i figured a little sealant here could only do me good. hopefully the nitro doesn't eat through this red stuff.
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