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Old 07-29-2003, 11:07 AM   #16
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I have a shoe clutch so that means the reason why this is happening is because my clutch is messed up?
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Old 07-29-2003, 11:09 AM   #17
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Also my clutch bell moves with the flywheel whnever i spin my flywheel, because in the v1r manual it says in step 19 to put in a bearing or something at the end, whenever i put that in it spins with the flywheel if i take it off then it spins freely by itself. I might just as well get a centax clutch if it really is the clutch itself then the idle.
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Old 07-29-2003, 11:14 AM   #18
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Ok!! Just checked the bearing at the end I was talking about and turns out it was the wrong one, and i switched it with a different one and now it moves freely!!! now i gotta work on the idling

If I do get a new centax clutch what kind would be better mugen or kyosho? Because i've read that mugen has a better centax then kyosho does, and would i have to mod anything for it to fit on my V One R.

Last edited by NitroNut; 07-29-2003 at 11:28 AM.
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Old 07-29-2003, 09:02 PM   #19
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Thumbs up Centex

You see I told you in my earlier post that the clutch was the problem.
Now as for the centex clutch.......I would go with the Mugen one they seem to hit very hard right out of the bag.I believe the reason for this is they use a 4 piece flyweight system,each weight is lighter than say a Serpent one which has three hevier weights. The Mugen spring is also stiffer which helps the clutch hit harder.
If you have ever experienced a boggy motor out of the corner or off the line, it`s most likely the clutch is coming in too soon.
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Old 07-30-2003, 10:31 PM   #20
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WooHOo Slotmachine ur the man!!!!!! and amg and ricey and ALL OTHERS WOOHOO
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Old 07-30-2003, 10:34 PM   #21
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Default nitronut

Quote:
Originally posted by NitroNut
WooHOo Slotmachine ur the man!!!!!! and amg and ricey and ALL OTHERS WOOHOO
Hey...did you ever get your motor broken in?
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Old 07-31-2003, 09:26 AM   #22
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Ya it's broken in i got like 5 tanks in, now i just need to drill a bigger hole in my 2 speed because the hold that was presently there is too small and narrow for my adjusting of the 2 speed.

Hope I can get everything done b4 this saturday for a race veeeeeeeee! hopefully i'll get in more tanks and set everything up by then.
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Old 07-31-2003, 01:06 PM   #23
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Old 07-31-2003, 03:53 PM   #24
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Thumbs up 2 speed

Quote:
Originally posted by NitroNut
now i just need to drill a bigger hole in my 2 speed because the hold that was presently there is too small and narrow for my adjusting of the 2 speed.

Hope I can get everything done b4 this saturday for a race veeeeeeeee! hopefully i'll get in more tanks and set everything up by then. [/B]
I find it easier to remove the 2 speed for adjustments, sometimes the wrench can slip then you dont know what your adjustment is!
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Old 07-31-2003, 05:24 PM   #25
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If i take it off then it'll take me forever to put back together or tighten it up because the rear always keeps on spinning when i try to tighten the last hex screw.
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Old 07-31-2003, 06:13 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally posted by NitroNut
If i take it off then it'll take me forever to put back together or tighten it up because the rear always keeps on spinning when i try to tighten the last hex screw.
First up the new 3d clutch from Kyosho for the Evolution is as good as the Mugen clutch now. New shoe material and properly stiff spring bring it up to par.

Secondly you dont need a centax clutch. I would stick with the shoes for a little while. It sounds like you are relatively new to nitro and a centax will be a huge learning curve on top of everything else.

Lastly you can adjust the 2 speed with the shoes in place. You need to just practice getting the wrench in through the holes. They have to be inserted on an angle, just right.

Lastly when doing up the hex screw that atatches the first gear bearing sleeve to the layshaft hold the drivetrain still by inserting a rod into the holes on the brake disc to stop it from rotating. Work very well.
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Old 07-31-2003, 07:59 PM   #27
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sorry to but in but I have a question:

the clutch bell is NEVER supposed to fit the flywheel?!?!?!

mine does . when it is idleing some times you can hear a ring and I have always assumed this was the clutch bell but never went into deep thought about it. I have wondered if it was supposed to happen but never went on further investigation. I have a HPI nitro MT (not on orad I know) but it has the .15Fe (which is in some onroad cars) so since it was a RTR it came this way. is there something I need to do to prevent this??

info would be great thanks.
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Old 07-31-2003, 08:22 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally posted by corvettecrazy
sorry to but in but I have a question:

the clutch bell is NEVER supposed to fit the flywheel?!?!?!

mine does . when it is idleing some times you can hear a ring and I have always assumed this was the clutch bell but never went into deep thought about it. I have wondered if it was supposed to happen but never went on further investigation. I have a HPI nitro MT (not on orad I know) but it has the .15Fe (which is in some onroad cars) so since it was a RTR it came this way. is there something I need to do to prevent this??

info would be great thanks.
just some some shims n place it inside the bell b4 tightening the clutch bell.....else the clutch bell will rub onto ur flywheel, leaving a deep groove creating drag.....
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Old 07-31-2003, 09:05 PM   #29
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Gotcha AMG!!!! oh yea give me your RX7!!!!
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Old 07-31-2003, 09:09 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally posted by vones
just some some shims n place it inside the bell b4 tightening the clutch bell.....else the clutch bell will rub onto ur flywheel, leaving a deep groove creating drag.....
are shims just washers?? what kind of washers/ shims?
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