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Old 04-18-2008, 07:54 PM   #1
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Default "pillow balls" NITRO TC3

Hey guys great help on this site that is FOR SURE!!! I got my NTC3 going a couple weeks ago and IT IS A BLAST!!!
But every time I go out it seems I am breaking the "pillow balls" I mean CONSTANTLY if i barely even touch the wall or the curb ONE BREAKS.....always on the FRONT! 2 this week alone.......is this just me or what can I do to fix this, I almost went with Titanium and will on the next bag but theres bound to be something I can do to help.
THANKS again.
Bo
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Old 04-18-2008, 09:31 PM   #2
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Bo,
I had that same problem several years ago. Here's what I learned. 1.Stick to the steel balls, 2.Trim your axles as short as you can while keeping them in the nylon and 3.Run as wide a body as you can to help deflect the hits. Oh and of course, don't hit sh!t. Sorry not much you can do beyond that. In my opinion that was a design flaw with that car. Not sure why other cars got away with it but the ntc3 was particularly fragile in that area.
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Old 04-18-2008, 11:07 PM   #3
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Bo,
Whatever you do don't buy the titanium ones. They are a waste of money and break easier than the steel ones. They make a real wide plastic piece for the bumper that will help. It is as wide as the front of your body, you might even have to trim it for your body to fit all the way down. It is made by Associated so your LHS should have it if he has a good selection of NTC3 parts. If not LMK and I will get you a part # when my LHS is open.
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Old 04-19-2008, 06:01 AM   #4
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Stick with the steel. The NTC3 was born from the TC3 which is an electic car. This is why alot of the components on the NTC3 are fragile.
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Old 04-19-2008, 07:32 AM   #5
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I use the stock steel pillow balls, but polish them. I've bent one so far in a crash, but of all the crashes, i've never broke one. Steels are the best to use, you can finish a race with a bent pillow ball, but kinda hard to finish a race with a broken one.
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Old 04-19-2008, 07:59 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kidsid99 View Post
Bo,
..... They make a real wide plastic piece for the bumper that will help. It is as wide as the front of your body, you might even have to trim it for your body to fit all the way down. It is made by Associated so your LHS should have it if he has a good selection of NTC3 parts. .
Definitely get the wide bumper!! At a cost of about $5.00, it is money well spent. I have been using it on my Ofna CD3 for years. It protects the front suspension and for my group is considered a required part for the car.
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Last edited by CurveTracer; 04-19-2008 at 10:08 AM.
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Old 04-19-2008, 08:25 AM   #7
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Make sure that you use low profile wheel nuts. They must not stick out past the wheel.. if they do they will catch when you 'touch' a board and that gives the entire linkage more leverage to bend them (I call them pivot balls).
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Old 04-19-2008, 08:27 PM   #8
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Bo, Went by the LHS today and the part # for the wide bumper is 2232 made by Associated.
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Old 04-21-2008, 08:04 AM   #9
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Here's what I did to make my car race proven when I race the NTC3.

Things that Iíve changed:
1. Changed bottom front pivot ball to Mugen MTX3. Thread diameter increased from 3.2mm (AE) to 3.9mm (Mugen). I got tired of them bending after a light rub or even breaking. Havenít had one break or bend in about 5 hours of racing.
2. Changed the front lower hinge pins. Diameter changed from 2.75mm (AE) to 3mm (Also Mugen MTX3). This little increase in diameter has done wonders. Just like the pivot balls Iíve gotten approx 5 hrs of run time and no bends.
3. To help eliminate the slop and eliminate changing out the ball cups on the steering linkage so frequently, I replaced the ball end and cups on the steering hub side L/R. I now use the rear turnbuckle eyelet and balls in those locations. I have been using same eyelets for about 4 months of racing.
4. Instead of purchasing ďthe fixĒ I slid 2 pieces of 3/16in.tubing through the shock tower holes and screwed in a 1 Ĺ in. 4-40 screw to the gear box.
5. Also changed the CVDs and now use the TC4 HD CVD (ASC31034). CVD diameter changed from 3.85mm (ASC3888) to 5mm (ASC31034). Direct replacement no mods needed.


The rear of the car is very stable since the revision to the Version 2. I am very pleased with this car and very confident every outing. It is impossible to make a car battle-proof. I would love it if AE would come out with beefier upper and lower arms in addition to beefier hinge pins and pivot balls of their own. NTC3 is still competitive in my opinion thatís why I went through so much trouble to get this car race-proof. In addition to all the changes made to the front end of the car I also cut the manifold 11mm, top end speed as well as speed through the rev band has increased noticeably.

Hope this helps.
Attached Thumbnails
"pillow balls" NITRO TC3-ntc4-.jpg   "pillow balls" NITRO TC3-ntc4-1.jpg   "pillow balls" NITRO TC3-ntc4-ackerman-eyelet.jpg  
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Old 04-21-2008, 09:05 AM   #10
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Great tips! I too still race the ntc3, but have issues with diff ring gears and pinion gears. No matter how you shim, grease/no grease, when you use a motor that puts out a decent amount of power (pretty much any modern race motor) it chews them up every one or two mains. This car has a lot of Parts that fall under the "consumable" category. ie. front shaft cup (aluminum wears in time plastic just shatters), CVD's, diff pinion/ring, cluthc bell pinions(changeable aluminum), spurs, flywheel,.....lol it just never stops. But I love the fact that I can run in to the local hobby shop, and they have every part i could need.
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Old 04-21-2008, 09:18 AM   #11
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Those are great tips. Did anyone every produce the diff gears out of alluminum. I had talk to Robinson Racing about this but; they said the demand was not high enough. Did you go with a centax clutch that was main reason I left the NTC3. The centax clutch for that is about $100.00 US. Almost twice the cost of a Mugen clutch. Not really confident if the diff gears can handle the snap of a centax clutch. But all in all I enjoyed running the NTC3
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Old 04-21-2008, 09:31 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lil-bump View Post
Those are great tips. Did anyone every produce the diff gears out of alluminum. I had talk to Robinson Racing about this but; they said the demand was not high enough. Did you go with a centax clutch that was main reason I left the NTC3. The centax clutch for that is about $100.00 US. Almost twice the cost of a Mugen clutch. Not really confident if the diff gears can handle the snap of a centax clutch. But all in all I enjoyed running the NTC3
No centax for me, I've tried every clutch combo possible (drilled 2 shoe/w heavy springs, drilled 3 shoe heavy springs, centax ect ec.....) but the MIP clutch has always been my favorite! It just seems to work the best. As far as the metal gears go, there's a guy named Brent Davis, who strapped a Supper Hot .21 motor with supporting mod to his ntc3, and has got some Ofna diff and pinion gears off the ntc3 clone ofna put out. He said with a little mod, it's very do-able and i'm waiting on him to finish to see what all it takes.
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Old 04-21-2008, 03:55 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lil-bump View Post
Those are great tips. Did anyone every produce the diff gears out of alluminum. I had talk to Robinson Racing about this but; they said the demand was not high enough. Did you go with a centax clutch that was main reason I left the NTC3. The centax clutch for that is about $100.00 US. Almost twice the cost of a Mugen clutch. Not really confident if the diff gears can handle the snap of a centax clutch. But all in all I enjoyed running the NTC3
I actually used a Mugen Centax clutch but I had to use slide motor mounts from Ofna. I ran my car's rear diff 1/8th out with a front HD one-way. I ran a soft clutch to keep the diff gears from tearing up.
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Old 04-22-2008, 09:06 PM   #14
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Well I am not completely finished as it is work to get the steel ring gear to fit from a LD3 Ofna but I got it. The only reason I don't have the pinion gear on is that the NTC3 shaft is .060" smaller than the pinion I.D. I have a solution for that too. I will take a solid piece of steel stock and make a shaft that will work using the Ofna LD3 pinion. In the photo, you will see that the left side bearing is not seated against the lower diff case, that is only because I had not shimmed the carrier on that side in the photo. It is now complete and seated like it should be.

three50zx, that is some great information there man. Thanks for sharing.





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Old 04-23-2008, 09:05 AM   #15
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Hi, I use NTC3 for 3th year now, I snapped only 2 rear dif rings till now. I use diffs front/rear, JLR red dot, but before race I spray in diff case oil with PTFE. Till now OK.
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