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A New Category Is Born : 1/10 GPR !!

A New Category Is Born : 1/10 GPR !!

Old 07-01-2008, 05:58 AM
  #226  
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Originally Posted by itchy b
Looks like they are ready to go!
Except they forgot one very important part!!!!
haha.. you right.. we do need the chassis.

Most of them got to the track today ( our national holiday).
We going to have a race just for 220 this sat. will post some pictures.

No if and buts.. we just do it
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Old 07-01-2008, 12:10 PM
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Looks like fun will have to give it a go
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Old 07-01-2008, 04:38 PM
  #228  
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Originally Posted by chris-steele
Looks like fun will have to give it a go
You should. We just started outlaw at AMCC two weeks ago and Ziggy showed up with his 220mm RRR. The setup on his car is rubbish, but that goes without saying with Ziggy but he was able to drive the tough AMCC track easily. OK, he did not win but he comes here rarely. There's a short video of this race at 3hobby.net

Last weekend we went over to CMCC and Ziggy, without fail, still came with his rubbish setup but this time because he knows the track better, he easily kept up with us (we use Lola on normal 200mm cars). I'm making a video of this one as I write this ... my PC is slow though so don't hold your breath ... but the video will be on 3hobby.net soon .. download it!

I have to say, I agree that going with the wider tyres alone DOES help after seeing Ziggy. After all it makes sense because anyone who knows anything about setups will tell you that if you get the tires right (i.e. ones that give more grip .. which these wider ones do!) then you have 80 to 90% of your setup problems solved. The last 10 to 20% is fine tuning the rest of the car - this assuming everything else is working correctly on the car of course.

Just my 2 cents.
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Old 07-01-2008, 09:25 PM
  #229  
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No matter what class of cars you race, the only thing that is going to bring in more people to RC is

1. Bringing the cost of racing i.e. cars and parts down. (That's why Traxxas is the #1 selling RC company in the world.) Inexpensive and unmatched customer support... and no I dont work for Traxxas.

2. Better education and sharing of knowledge, helping newbies to setup and race better instead of complaining about them and keeping your expertise in a vault like some government secret.

I mean does anyone know of a club or track that offers classes on setup and driving? If you do thats good... there should be more of them. I would volunteer my time to help teach a class and in return maybe get a discount from the LHS supporting the track.

The sooner RC racing ceases to be the secret underground domain of the elite racer and becomes the center for fun and education, the more people will show up and keep coming back. "...if you teach them, they will come."

3. Equalizing the field at clubs - maintaining and enforcing restrictions on engines and motors. For the most part this is done but some clubs are a bit loose. The new guys are gonna get frustrated real quick when the hot shots blow past them with the 1 turn motor in a modified class.

We also have to remember that marketing departments for most companies care more about selling the latest and greatest and convincing us we need to buy this or that than whether or not we are really having fun. When its not fun anymore - even experienced drivers will eventually drop out.

But I understand they have to make money to survive just don't force us to upgrade by not supporting parts and don't exploit our desire for new stuff.

The non-obsolete life span of a new model is about 6 months... at least make the old model more upgradeable and interchangeable with the latest and greatest.

After all, whay did all of us get started in RC - for the fun. Let's put it back.

Just my opinion.
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Old 07-02-2008, 12:08 AM
  #230  
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Originally Posted by kitracer
haha.. you right.. we do need the chassis.

Most of them got to the track today ( our national holiday).
We going to have a race just for 220 this sat. will post some pictures.

No if and buts.. we just do it
The Nike SWOOSH logo represents the wing in the famous statue of the Greek Goddess of victory, Nike, who was the source of inspiration for many great and courageous warriors. According to legends, a Greek would say, "When we go to battle and win, we say it is Nike."
How about that for learning something new!
Just do it!!!!
Maybe you need a Nike themed car?
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Old 07-03-2008, 03:24 PM
  #231  
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In regards to an NT1 how does set up differ from the standard touring car set-up? Anybody have a good set up?
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Old 07-04-2008, 03:50 AM
  #232  
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Originally Posted by wilson1417
In regards to an NT1 how does set up differ from the standard touring car set-up? Anybody have a good set up?
my experience..... use harder rear diff than your Tourer then after you run it few tanks than adjust accordingly ( you can try a lot harder than tourer!)
I suggest if you been using 60K rear, I would go 80 to 100k. If you been using 80K, then go to 100k to 150K.

I suggest dont change anything else until you driven it few tanks other than the harder diff because I been to few places with the 220 and the harder rear diff was almost certain.
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Old 07-04-2008, 05:33 AM
  #233  
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Originally Posted by kitracer
my experience..... use harder rear diff than your Tourer then after you run it few tanks than adjust accordingly ( you can try a lot harder than tourer!)
I suggest if you been using 60K rear, I would go 80 to 100k. If you been using 80K, then go to 100k to 150K.

I suggest dont change anything else until you driven it few tanks other than the harder diff because I been to few places with the 220 and the harder rear diff was almost certain.
If you can get one or can get one made, go with solid axle in rear with one-way in front.
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Old 07-04-2008, 05:51 AM
  #234  
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Default Pics of RRR 220mm

[IMG]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/brc358/002.jpg[/IMG]
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Old 07-04-2008, 08:05 AM
  #235  
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Originally Posted by teammpp
If you can get one or can get one made, go with solid axle in rear with one-way in front.
I tried solid rear on NT1, it did not work well at my home track. Even 300K rear diff did not work well. Lap time was slowest with solid rear. Our track is very smooth high traction but have few tight turns. Approx 22 sec per lap.

Solid may work in Very open smooth and really high traction track. but I never tried
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Old 07-04-2008, 03:07 PM
  #236  
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Originally Posted by brc358
[IMG]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/brc358/002.jpg[/IMG]
.............That car body is just toooo beautiful to race nice!!!
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Old 07-04-2008, 04:04 PM
  #237  
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Originally Posted by nitrohead5300
.............That car body is just toooo beautiful to race nice!!!
Thanks,
I am not a painter by no means.
I have my "good" paint jobs done by a painter that knows how to use an airbrush.
The picture is kind of deceiving. The body is actually candy purple, but looks blue in the photo.
I did this one to match the colors on my 1/8th scale.
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Old 07-04-2008, 04:18 PM
  #238  
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Sometimes really good photos can be an accident but it really looks nice.
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Old 07-05-2008, 02:19 AM
  #239  
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Originally Posted by brc358
[IMG]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/brc358/002.jpg[/IMG]
Nice looking body you got there!
Who makes that one?
Is there 2 Kawahara bodies available for 220mm?
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Old 07-05-2008, 03:19 AM
  #240  
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Originally Posted by itchy b
Nice looking body you got there!
Who makes that one?
Is there 2 Kawahara bodies available for 220mm?
I think it is the "Knack" body that is on Sam's site (Knack Kit $149.00US) Joe
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