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Old 06-29-2008, 11:03 AM   #211
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Originally Posted by rccartips View Post
Jlock,

All I'm trying to say is there are a lot of hobbyist who just like the driving/playing part and not the technical/mechanical setup part of the hobby. i also did not mention anything about winning... i am all about just driving and having fun.

in big races, top level some of the best drivers have their own mechanics. are they lazy? i don't think so. its just driving and car setup are two different disciplines. unfortunately most of us dont have luxury of having a mechanic.

have fun.

joel
No offense but just adding a few mm to the width aint gonna make these cars easier to run than 200mm touring. Its still the same car and still needs to be set up properly to run. Bolting on wider tires and a nice body will just increase the speed at which these people leave the hobby. This hop up will increase the corner speeds. These people that cant set up cars are already going too fast in corners with 200mm to be able to drive. increasing the speed only makes things worse for them.
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Old 06-29-2008, 11:12 AM   #212
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Wrong!

They are much easier to drive and more forgiving to mistakes. The difference between the fastest and the slowest is a lot less than in touring. You still need to find the bst setup to get the fastest speed but a bad setup will not be really slow

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Old 06-29-2008, 11:13 AM   #213
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here are some of the 220's ready to go.. if it stop raining at weekends
So cute.
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Old 06-30-2008, 03:30 AM   #214
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Wrong!

They are much easier to drive and more forgiving to mistakes. The difference between the fastest and the slowest is a lot less than in touring. You still need to find the bst setup to get the fastest speed but a bad setup will not be really slow

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Exactly

so who else have "tried" and give "real" comments
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Old 06-30-2008, 07:50 AM   #215
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I found the kit online, but not sure if it is the correct one. I have an NT1...kit number is: ZW-002...it is the Kawahara one. Is this correct? it is:1/10 GPR FULL SET IN BOX FOR NT-1

full kit price was $52.37 and the tires are $14.50 for front or rear. shipping for the kit and 3 full sets of tires was $28. What shore tires are most running. 35,37,40, or 42?
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Old 06-30-2008, 08:26 AM   #216
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Originally Posted by teammpp View Post
No offense but just adding a few mm to the width aint gonna make these cars easier to run than 200mm touring. Its still the same car and still needs to be set up properly to run. Bolting on wider tires and a nice body will just increase the speed at which these people leave the hobby. This hop up will increase the corner speeds. These people that cant set up cars are already going too fast in corners with 200mm to be able to drive. increasing the speed only makes things worse for them.
You are completly wrong on this.
I have numerous 10th scale cars, and I did convert one of them to the 220mm class.
They drive and handle much different than a normal 10th scale, and then to say that just because there is a new class of on road it will make people leave the hobby that much faster is ridiculous. If they try the 220mm class and find it is not to their liken, they could always put it back to 200mm.
I dont understand why there is so much negativty to adding another class.
If you dont want to try, then dont. So far where I run, there has not been ONE negative remark about the 220mm classes. Everyone is enjoying the new class, and it has really taken off in So Ca.
I do know how to set up a 10th scale, and my decision to try the 220mm class had nothing to do with "not knowing" how to set up the chassis on my cars.
Very simple, if you dont want to try, then dont. But dont put it down until you have tried it, and can give your comments from personal experience.
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Old 06-30-2008, 10:50 AM   #217
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Originally Posted by rcfoolz View Post
I found the kit online, but not sure if it is the correct one. I have an NT1...kit number is: ZW-002...it is the Kawahara one. Is this correct? it is:1/10 GPR FULL SET IN BOX FOR NT-1

full kit price was $52.37 and the tires are $14.50 for front or rear. shipping for the kit and 3 full sets of tires was $28. What shore tires are most running. 35,37,40, or 42?
Yep, ZW-002 is the correct item# for NT1 from kawahara.
Run the same or one softer shore then what you're currently running on your touring car.
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Old 06-30-2008, 12:20 PM   #218
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You are completly wrong on this.
I have numerous 10th scale cars, and I did convert one of them to the 220mm class.
They drive and handle much different than a normal 10th scale, and then to say that just because there is a new class of on road it will make people leave the hobby that much faster is ridiculous. If they try the 220mm class and find it is not to their liken, they could always put it back to 200mm.
I dont understand why there is so much negativty to adding another class.
If you dont want to try, then dont. So far where I run, there has not been ONE negative remark about the 220mm classes. Everyone is enjoying the new class, and it has really taken off in So Ca.
I do know how to set up a 10th scale, and my decision to try the 220mm class had nothing to do with "not knowing" how to set up the chassis on my cars.
Very simple, if you dont want to try, then dont. But dont put it down until you have tried it, and can give your comments from personal experience.
The main reason why you here negativity is because in many areas, attendance is very low, so, adding yet another class just farther deletes already small classes as is. Also, there was a similar class of car, 235mm, back about 3 years ago that was abandoned by the national organization and left to die (it was very strong in my region and many others west of the Rockies). Some diehards of that class would like to bring it back instead of changing a current class of car (many still have there 235mm car). Work needs to be done on shoring up the classes that are currently running. Many feel that this will not attract the new racer and if it further dilutes the competition in 200mm in some areas, that is where you are getting the "may cause some to leave the hobby" statements. Many like good competition and if it is not there, then many will leave instead of buying more equipment (just my take on what you stated).
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Old 06-30-2008, 12:45 PM   #219
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The main reason why you here negativity is because in many areas, attendance is very low, so, adding yet another class just farther deletes already small classes as is. Also, there was a similar class of car, 235mm, back about 3 years ago that was abandoned by the national organization and left to die (it was very strong in my region and many others west of the Rockies). Some diehards of that class would like to bring it back instead of changing a current class of car (many still have there 235mm car). Work needs to be done on shoring up the classes that are currently running. Many feel that this will not attract the new racer and if it further dilutes the competition in 200mm in some areas, that is where you are getting the "may cause some to leave the hobby" statements. Many like good competition and if it is not there, then many will leave instead of buying more equipment (just my take on what you stated).
Well I quess it also depends on the area of where we are speaking. In my area, drivers have two and sometimes three or four 10th scale cars, and to convert one over is not a problem. But yes, attendance is down and so far the new class has helped in bringing up the attendance somewhat. The economy has hit everyone hard, and when we talk about a "hobby" these are usually the last on the list of priorities with people raising families. Most of the drivers I know still run the 200 class, and do not need to buy a car just to run the 220mm.
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Old 06-30-2008, 01:03 PM   #220
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......I dont understand why there is so much negativty to adding another class.
If you dont want to try, then dont......Very simple, if you dont want to try, then dont. But dont put it down until you have tried it, and can give your comments from personal experience.
I have been around R/C racing since the dark ages when there were only 2 classes (1/8th pan cars and 1/12th pan cars) and every club in the area had a pre-booking or your not in regime. Then more and more classes got introduced and all of a sudden you could turn up 10mins before qualifying starts and get an entry. As a result the numbers dwindled because racers moved to different classes. The manufacturers werent selling the same amount of stuff and the prices skyrocketed.

The result to this was that the racers cried for cheaper classes and the manufacturers complied hoping that it would bring in a lot more new racers. That never happened in any great fashion. Instead more drivers just shifted classes. In the UK, 1/8th National meetings were always maxed out at over 150 with pre-season booking. Then came 235mm followed by 200mm and single make classes and now 1/8th are lucky to get 40 racers at National level due to the costs and class dilution. As more classes are introduced these new classes will go the same way.

As for experience, I have raced every class ever conceived from 1/27th Mini-Z to 1/5th both on-road and off-road and also Kyosho 1/8th bikes at National/International level. Im actually for this class to completely replace 200mm touring because I have always loved GT/GroupC racing and the costs wont actually be that much more (the average racer with a half decent setup should be able to get these wider tires to last longer than narrower 200mm tires).

I didnt put this class down in my post either. I was merely stating that regardless what class you run, a badly set up car is just the same and wont help with driving. The costs wont be that much more like I said but if those people are losing interest in 200mm because of poor car set then they will lose interest far quicker with this class if they are killing tires every run at twice the cost.
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Old 06-30-2008, 01:19 PM   #221
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I have been around R/C racing since the dark ages when there were only 2 classes (1/8th pan cars and 1/12th pan cars) and every club in the area had a pre-booking or your not in regime. Then more and more classes got introduced and all of a sudden you could turn up 10mins before qualifying starts and get an entry. As a result the numbers dwindled because racers moved to different classes. The manufacturers werent selling the same amount of stuff and the prices skyrocketed.

The result to this was that the racers cried for cheaper classes and the manufacturers complied hoping that it would bring in a lot more new racers. That never happened in any great fashion. Instead more drivers just shifted classes. In the UK, 1/8th National meetings were always maxed out at over 150 with pre-season booking. Then came 235mm followed by 200mm and single make classes and now 1/8th are lucky to get 40 racers at National level due to the costs and class dilution. As more classes are introduced these new classes will go the same way.

As for experience, I have raced every class ever conceived from 1/27th Mini-Z to 1/5th both on-road and off-road and also Kyosho 1/8th bikes at National/International level. Im actually for this class to completely replace 200mm touring because I have always loved GT/GroupC racing and the costs wont actually be that much more (the average racer with a half decent setup should be able to get these wider tires to last longer than narrower 200mm tires).

I didnt put this class down in my post either. I was merely stating that regardless what class you run, a badly set up car is just the same and wont help with driving. The costs wont be that much more like I said but if those people are losing interest in 200mm because of poor car set then they will lose interest far quicker with this class if they are killing tires every run at twice the cost.
I aggree with you 100%. A bad setup in a car whether it be 200mm, 220mm, or 1/8 is going to make you lose interest very quickly. If some one thinks by converting their 200mm car to a 220mm car <with a bad set-up> and they are going to set a track record with their car, they will be disappointed and lose interest. I just think that what ever class it is, if it helps the bring in the attendance, I am all for it.
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Old 06-30-2008, 01:38 PM   #222
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I aggree with you 100%. A bad setup in a car whether it be 200mm, 220mm, or 1/8 is going to make you lose interest very quickly. If some one thinks by converting their 200mm car to a 220mm car <with a bad set-up> and they are going to set a track record with their car, they will be disappointed and lose interest. I just think that what ever class it is, if it helps the bring in the attendance, I am all for it.
Now you have it!!! If you go back and look at the first couple of pages of these posts on 220mm, most of the posts talked about how this was going to make the car easier to drive in low traction situations. When some pointed out that changing tires, set-ups, and maybe tuning down the power of their $500+ modified engine would help them master 200mm better, references were made that it was poppycock. Some are jumping to 220mm for the wrong reasons (thinking it will be easier). Those are the ones that could make participation in this class difficult with their endless complaining of how their car still doesn't work well on the track. Good luck and much fun to the guys that make the switch and give their full support to the class.
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Old 06-30-2008, 04:52 PM   #223
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I think nitro on road is just to expensinve period. I mean just the .12 engines are outrageous, Foams wear to quickly and the cars are to fragile. But I love racing nitro touring. If they could just make the cars more durable, I know, I know If you dont hit anything they wont break but most people just arent pro's and still do werck. I mean the engines are over priced I think, I also race 1/8 buggy and My rb .21 engine was cheaper than my .12 nitro touring engine. The biggest reason on road is somewhat taking a back seat is because 1/8 buggy is by far more durable and the engines are cheaper. Im still a somewhat a rookie in the nitro touring, But I bet over the course of a year I will spend double racing nitro touring than I will 1/8 buggy
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Old 06-30-2008, 05:05 PM   #224
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I think nitro on road is just to expensinve period. I mean just the .12 engines are outrageous, Foams wear to quickly and the cars are to fragile. But I love racing nitro touring. If they could just make the cars more durable, I know, I know If you dont hit anything they wont break but most people just arent pro's and still do werck. I mean the engines are over priced I think, I also race 1/8 buggy and My rb .21 engine was cheaper than my .12 nitro touring engine. The biggest reason on road is somewhat taking a back seat is because 1/8 buggy is by far more durable and the engines are cheaper. Im still a somewhat a rookie in the nitro touring, But I bet over the course of a year I will spend double racing nitro touring than I will 1/8 buggy
The touring car vehicles got expensive very fast. The Serpent Impulse was simple and cheap, then all the evolution from rubber tire and side exhaust engines went out the window for rear exhaust tuned engines and pipes, and wider foam tires plus all the chassis tuning and diff options.

For me, I stepped back and looked at the whole scene. The one new model I like that seems to bring economy back into the onroad scene thats fun and easy for beginners to get into is the Kyosho Spada 09. Although not imported by Kyosho america, it has most of the stuff your looking for in onroad and can be found for under $300 including the engine. Mind you, you can get the option parts, but for a 1/12 scale GPR nitro car with two speed, front oneway, and a rear ball diff its looks very promising, at least IMO.

As for the GPR kits, I would rather use it over current touring car specs now. There was just too much changes made to touring car class from when it started to now.
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Old 07-01-2008, 04:22 AM   #225
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here are some of the 220's ready to go.. if it stop raining at weekends
Looks like they are ready to go!
Except they forgot one very important part!!!!
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