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Old 08-11-2009, 05:32 AM   #1381
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Originally Posted by el salvador View Post
Somebody out there correct me if I'm wrong, but, I believe a few years ago that Serpent (gets credit for this), introduced the .08 Moduler gear system which is esentially, the spur and pinion gears of their respective locations (1st pinion/spur OD are the same, 2nd pinion/spur OD as well proportionally, are the same). Therefore, or in other words, it is OK to mix and match gear combos regardless of whether the # of teeth for 1st and 2nd gear ratios = the same #'s. At any rate, I've used various nonconventional combos with no problems, however, setting motor location is very important. I set it tight, then run the car with no load (on the starter box) for a few minuetes, and listen to the transmission, then shut it off, recheck mesh, readjust if necessary.
I always thought that is was Hong-Nor that first introduced 0.8M interchangable gears as a Centax/Gearbox upgrade on the LD3? or were they released on the serpent 705 before that came out?
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Old 08-11-2009, 10:33 AM   #1382
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I always thought that is was Hong-Nor that first introduced 0.8M interchangable gears as a Centax/Gearbox upgrade on the LD3? or were they released on the serpent 705 before that came out?
This is why I said "Correct me if I'm wrong", I derived my info from a very "undependable Memory", which was from an article in one of the RC magazines, covering a major race event. (Opps runon sentence, sorry), I do not remember how long ago. Regardless of who gets/deserves the credit for this inovation, The physics are sound and very usefull.

BTW, some of us, here locally, have been deleting 2nd gear (completely remove 2nd gear w/shoe holder and add proper width spacer, another guy machined a "Custom 1st spur holder), and going 1 speed. Reduces drive train weight by about 35 grams, and makes the car drive more like a open/mod elec sedan on tight technical track w/short straight.
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Old 08-11-2009, 11:08 AM   #1383
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The evo uses 2mm offset only in the rear. If you want to change over to a zero offset (like most other cars use, including the evo2) all you have to do is get shorter rear dogbones and screw in the pillow balls 2mm.
what if im using cvds? I have been using zero but this weekend someone gave me some 2mm offsets and it settled the rear of the car down. If i am supposed to use a different type of cvd could you post the part number?
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Old 08-11-2009, 04:40 PM   #1384
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BTW, some of us, here locally, have been deleting 2nd gear (completely remove 2nd gear w/shoe holder and add proper width spacer, another guy machined a "Custom 1st spur holder), and going 1 speed. Reduces drive train weight by about 35 grams, and makes the car drive more like a open/mod elec sedan on tight technical track w/short straight.
hey el salvador

no offense to you guys, but that has been around for many years it was considered tourer, single speed class, as to pro tourer - two speed.

yes on some tracks it was faster but really suffer on a track with long straights.

That class was sadly dropped were im am a number of years ago just to the fact that no one wanted to race it

It would be good if it was brought back. But considering the lack of nitro guys it looks very unlikely.
-------------------------------------

iggamacdaddy is there a way to tell if you need to use 2mm offset in the rear, as i have a Evo WC and was totally unaware of that fact, and that there was any difference.

thanks
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Old 08-11-2009, 09:36 PM   #1385
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Hey Scott,

Dont you mean longer dogbones and screw the pivot balls out?
Oops... yes, thanks
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Old 08-11-2009, 09:47 PM   #1386
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what if im using cvds? I have been using zero but this weekend someone gave me some 2mm offsets and it settled the rear of the car down. If i am supposed to use a different type of cvd could you post the part number?
If you see another post, you will see I was backwards. When you went from zero out to a 2mm offset if you didn't adjust your pillow balls you car was way too wide in the rear. That is probably why your car settled down

If you want a CVD, the part number is VSW006. Personally I would run dogbones in the rear.
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Old 08-12-2009, 07:51 AM   #1387
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Originally Posted by Scott Fisher View Post
If you see another post, you will see I was backwards. When you went from zero out to a 2mm offset if you didn't adjust your pillow balls you car was way too wide in the rear. That is probably why your car settled down

If you want a CVD, the part number is VSW006. Personally I would run dogbones in the rear.
Scott, i've heard that dogbones will free up the rear. Haven't tried them! Why would you recommend them?
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Old 08-12-2009, 05:26 PM   #1388
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hey

i would have thought that putting uni's in the rear would have free the drive chain and given better efficiency, as you don't have the extra slop that you would normally get from dog bones.

unless im wrong
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Old 08-12-2009, 11:40 PM   #1389
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I can't really tell you much regarding the drivetrain. Even with a CVD you still have all the slop, it is just on the diff side only.

Here is what I can tell you:

When I started RC racing about 10 years ago I was racing offroad and I did that for about 5 years. I was a decent offroad racer, but not great.. similar to now in onroad. All the pros ran dogbones in the rear. I always asked why and I got the same answer everytime. "The rear end of the car squares up better". I get the same answer from onroad racers. When I joined the Kyosho team, (about 2.5 years ago) I spoke to three of the 100% drivers about the sedan. I spoke to Josh Cyrul, Ron Atomic, and Marc Cruz. I only spoke briefly to Josh, a bit more to Ron and a lot to Marc. All told me the car was better with dogbones so I just believed them and built my car with dogbones. The few other things I can tell you is dogbones are a lot less expensive, are more reliable, and take a lot less maintenance.
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Old 08-13-2009, 12:59 AM   #1390
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hmm, that is quite interesting.

i might have to talk to Peter or Steven Jovanovic as i see them pretty often and they run the Kyosho RRR and they might have another point of view on the subject.


thanks
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Old 08-16-2009, 01:47 AM   #1391
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How long to the aluminum pinion gears last?
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Old 08-16-2009, 06:03 AM   #1392
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How long to the aluminum pinion gears last?
Not long.

4 or 5 meetings and they are showing major wear.

I use the steel pinions. They are slightly heavier but the reliability is worth the extra weight. You never wear the steel ones out.
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Old 08-16-2009, 08:55 AM   #1393
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Not long.

4 or 5 meetings and they are showing major wear.

I use the steel pinions. They are slightly heavier but the reliability is worth the extra weight. You never wear the steel ones out.
You are about right, 1st gear goes quick on most tracks because it pulls the most weight. 4-5 meetings for around $8 isn't that bad though but like barg, I run steel except for big races. They don't strip or break, 1st just gets sharp quick.
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Old 08-16-2009, 08:56 AM   #1394
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What rear camber links are you guys using? the pivot balls on both sides or the ball bearing supported square piece and the pivot ball on the hub?
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Old 08-16-2009, 09:23 PM   #1395
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What rear camber links are you guys using? the pivot balls on both sides or the ball bearing supported square piece and the pivot ball on the hub?
I use the pivot ball and the ball bearing supported piece.
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