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Old 06-04-2009, 08:36 PM   #1216
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What issue are you having with the Kyosho tank? In 2.5 years I am on my 3rd tank.
I have to replace the seals quite often on the kyosho tank, probably about as much as you are replacing entire tanks if we both run once or twice a month. I have never replaced seals on my offroad tanks (except RC8, those just crack)

The KM top deck (and the capricorn for that matter) that allow the xray tank don't really do much for the car other than let you use those tanks. You can cut the chassis like the xray, but you still have the side battery mounts to work around so you can't get it on the ground like on the NT1.

Either way I think the car was about the same because I equalized the battery weight with a brass battery plate and I would recommend the KM if you like the way it looks.
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Old 06-04-2009, 09:25 PM   #1217
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I picked up some hitec tg servos to replace my worn out futaba's but for the life of me i cannot find horns that fit (length/size wise) for the throttle and steering without substantial cutting the last set i cut down started cracking on me and i want a cleaner look with no cutting.
Is anyone running hitec's and if so which horns are you using ? Thanks
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Old 06-04-2009, 09:29 PM   #1218
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It has been over 2 years since I built mine so I am sure I am forgetting some stuff: Get two rear shock towers, and glue them together. Run that doubled up version on your car. I also use RTV blue to seal my diffs. Some people say they never have leaking issues, but mine did so now all my diffs are sealed with RTV. When screwing the rear shock tower to the car, use a very long screw. When attaching the rear camber link to the rear hub carrier, use a longer screw than what the manual says. If I remember more I will say and my guess is that others will chime in as well.

I finally found some rtv, couple questions about it:

Does it matter what color it is?

where/when should i apply it? after the diff is built or put it in the groove before i put the screws together.

Don't want to make a mess of my diffs, i think the rear one is leaking but the front one seems fine.
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Old 06-04-2009, 10:03 PM   #1219
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I finally found some rtv, couple questions about it:

Does it matter what color it is?

where/when should i apply it? after the diff is built or put it in the groove before i put the screws together.

Don't want to make a mess of my diffs, i think the rear one is leaking but the front one seems fine.
I always use RTV blue because it dries somewhat soft. I apply it right around the same area that the rubber seal goes. I build the diff, put the oil in and then I run a bead of RTV, then put the two diff halves together and screw it tight.
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Old 06-04-2009, 10:08 PM   #1220
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Originally Posted by Scott Fisher View Post
I always use RTV blue because it dries somewhat soft. I apply it right around the same area that the rubber seal goes. I build the diff, put the oil in and then I run a bead of RTV, then put the two diff halves together and screw it tight.
Thanks for the quick response!! I'm rebuilding the rear diff next weekend and i'll follow your instructions.
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Old 06-05-2009, 06:20 AM   #1221
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Originally Posted by Christopher13 View Post
What issue are you having with the Kyosho tank? In 2.5 years I am on my 3rd tank.
I would have the seam fail. I could take the tank in my sink and blow air in it (the fuel supply line sealed) and air bubbles would start bubbling out along the seam at the RR corner. I'm hoping it was a "bad batch" of tanks since all of the tanks (3) I bought at the same time. I've decided to stick with the stock RRR set-up.
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Old 06-06-2009, 03:19 AM   #1222
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New rear hub for RRR Evo 2
9mm ball moved 2mm outside
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Kyosho V-ONE RRR EVO 2-ky-vz262.jpg  
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Old 06-07-2009, 08:07 PM   #1223
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Default Xray NT1 diff conversion

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Hey mate the nt1 front diff does not just drop in rrr. the nt1 bearings used with diff are 10x16x4 and the rrr are bigger 12x18
So i think to be able to put the nt1 diff in a rrr you will need to use xray bearings and the xray belt tension hubs.
Sorry bout that, My intention was not disinformation or incomplete info. I do know that the front diff was easy to fit compared to the rear diff. When he first showed up with his diff remodle, he had a complete Xray unit in the rear. He also said the #of teeth between the Xray and Kyosho sprokets were different, and this changed the front to rear gear ratio bias. Hence the trouble to combine the Xray diff housing w/Kyosho sproket. There was no mention of the difference in bearing sizes. So, when I see him again, I will ask the provocative questions everyone wants answers to. Sorry for the confusion.[/QUOTE]

As I referenced earlier, the complete story on the bearing size difference between the NT1 and RRR, "Our Hero", who accomplished this conversion, DID, have to machine some inserts/collers/holders, in order to accomodate the bearing size difference. He also suggested trying to find bearings that would have the necessary demensions to make this happen.

Last edited by el salvador; 06-08-2009 at 01:08 PM.
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Old 06-08-2009, 01:14 AM   #1224
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yer thats wat i did i run the diff twice and love it, way better then locker i think
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Old 06-08-2009, 03:39 PM   #1225
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I had some problems during BumodGP qualifying with my evo2 wc. The weather was extremely hot.

Anyone having problems with inconsistent 2 speed shifting? During one of the heats I just started without second gear. 2 minutes later it started to shift too early. My pitman and I checked the movement of the hub before the heat so it was not the issue. Any ideas about the problem?

Another problem was the brakes. How can I get more braking sensitivity? It just worked like an on/off switch. Maybe longer fuel tube?

Thanks
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Old 06-08-2009, 08:17 PM   #1226
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I had some problems during BumodGP qualifying with my evo2 wc. The weather was extremely hot.

Anyone having problems with inconsistent 2 speed shifting? During one of the heats I just started without second gear. 2 minutes later it started to shift too early. My pitman and I checked the movement of the hub before the heat so it was not the issue. Any ideas about the problem?

Another problem was the brakes. How can I get more braking sensitivity? It just worked like an on/off switch. Maybe longer fuel tube?

Thanks
2 speed is almost always the springs being old or the hub being tight or not greased on the shoe. Some people assemble that middle set screw too tight, it really doesn't need to be that way. Centrifugal force will open the shoes up with no help.

longer fuel tube is one solution but the progression is not linear like you would think, the other is just to feel the brakes out. I use maybe 5mm of tubing and believe I can feel the servo better that way.
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Old 06-08-2009, 08:32 PM   #1227
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Originally Posted by 1nsane View Post
I had some problems during BumodGP qualifying with my evo2 wc. The weather was extremely hot.

Anyone having problems with inconsistent 2 speed shifting? During one of the heats I just started without second gear. 2 minutes later it started to shift too early. My pitman and I checked the movement of the hub before the heat so it was not the issue. Any ideas about the problem?

Another problem was the brakes. How can I get more braking sensitivity? It just worked like an on/off switch. Maybe longer fuel tube?

Thanks
I was, there were some suggestions a couple posts back. The one that worked for me was to take the 2 speed apart, clean all the grease out from that area where the little roller bearing thingy is and then re assemble it dry with out grease. For good measure i used scotch bright to scuff the material on the shoes before i reassembled it. Been shifting like a champ ever since.
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Old 06-08-2009, 11:00 PM   #1228
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Originally Posted by corney_01 View Post
yer thats wat i did i run the diff twice and love it, way better then locker i think
I have run my car with a diff and thought geez this is so much easier to drive
Then switched back to a locker and thought the car was a pig
Did all this on the same day at the track and although the locker felt bad was much quicker in lap times.
Just like yesterday the guy who smashed us all in the final ran a locker
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Old 06-09-2009, 12:14 AM   #1229
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Originally Posted by YmeBP View Post
I was, there were some suggestions a couple posts back. The one that worked for me was to take the 2 speed apart, clean all the grease out from that area where the little roller bearing thingy is and then re assemble it dry with out grease. For good measure i used scotch bright to scuff the material on the shoes before i reassembled it. Been shifting like a champ ever since.
Glad that worked for you.
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Old 06-09-2009, 12:50 AM   #1230
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I have run my car with a diff and thought geez this is so much easier to drive
Then switched back to a locker and thought the car was a pig
Did all this on the same day at the track and although the locker felt bad was much quicker in lap times.
Just like yesterday the guy who smashed us all in the final ran a locker
By "locker" you mean the spool or the oneway? thanks
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