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Old 05-24-2009, 11:00 PM   #1156
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would you suggest hunting down the parts from an original rrr? i had it set pretty well at the start of the race the car was phenominal! but as the race went on i lost 2nd. I'm going to disassemble it and see what i can see.
Thats up to you, on replacing the parts. The EVO2 uses FM615 shoe set, and FM622 shoe hloder. The RRR WCE calls for FM360 shoe set, and FM361 shoe holder. I quess I'm lazey, and loaded the WCE parts in my EVO2 and called it good. I probably can't even find the original parts from the EVO2 anyway. I do know that the WCE parts work, just in my case, took the path of least resistance. So it depends on how determined you are to make the EVO2 parts work, but, I'm sure they will.
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Old 05-24-2009, 11:53 PM   #1157
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I went with the older ackerman arms, and figured my 9000 servo could just muscle it through until the parts naturally wore in and made themselves smooth.

I must say ... this car is absolutely great! I ran great laps even though i couldn't get the car to shift into 2nd consistenlty which is a different issue but i gotta tell you this car handles like a DREAM!!! It is extremely fast through the corners, settled and feels great! I love it and am VERRRRY happy i chose this car over the competition.

I am having a great deal of difficulty with the second gear though. A couple of racers helped me get the second gear shifting properly and it stopped. I' going to work on engine tuning to be sure that i'm getting the rpms to shift it but i doubt that is the problem. I have the air gap adjusted properly, and the only other thing i can think of is that i don't have the screws/nuts in properly or had two much grease on those two rollers at the top or something. Has anyone else had an issue with the two speed? Are there any suggestions for replacement or upgrade components to help with the 2 speed situation?
I had the same issue when I got my first Evo2. I have also had a couple of other guys at our track with the same issue.

The issue is the grease on the rollers. For some reason if this gets on the new steel 2nd gear it gives inconsistent changes. I would clean the grease out and run it dry.

I have done this and not had any further issues in over a year.

Give it a try.
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Old 05-25-2009, 03:14 AM   #1158
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I had the same issue when I got my first Evo2. I have also had a couple of other guys at our track with the same issue.

The issue is the grease on the rollers. For some reason if this gets on the new steel 2nd gear it gives inconsistent changes. I would clean the grease out and run it dry.

I have done this and not had any further issues in over a year.

Give it a try.

Same, mine would not shift during the first 2 or 3 practise laps until I got abit of heat into them, and cleaning the rollers helped.
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Old 05-25-2009, 04:56 AM   #1159
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let me know how thing workout....
Tried the 24t this weekend at 301. Made the car handle a litle funny. Was a little harder to drive. It might of been just me, not sure. Will put the 23t back in for next week and see how the can handles. As far as tire wear it was very consistant, that I did like.
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Old 05-26-2009, 04:24 AM   #1160
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Another guy here in Seattle has managed to fit Xray diffs front and rear. The front diff w/Kyosho sprocket goes right in. works fine now, and I think the Evola Steering parts do improve the car, every little bit helps.[/QUOTE]

Hey mate the nt1 front diff does not just drop in rrr. the nt1 bearings used with diff are 10x16x4 and the rrr are bigger 12x18
So i think to be able to put the nt1 diff in a rrr you will need to use xray bearings and the xray belt tension hubs.
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Old 05-26-2009, 06:21 AM   #1161
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Another guy here in Seattle has managed to fit Xray diffs front and rear. The front diff w/Kyosho sprocket goes right in. works fine now, and I think the Evola Steering parts do improve the car, every little bit helps.
Hey mate the nt1 front diff does not just drop in rrr. the nt1 bearings used with diff are 10x16x4 and the rrr are bigger 12x18
So i think to be able to put the nt1 diff in a rrr you will need to use xray bearings and the xray belt tension hubs.[/quote]


steve it will be easier if you just grid down the xray diffs from 12 to 10 with a mill.and cheap too.if you have a friend with a mill it will take 5 minutes.
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Old 05-26-2009, 10:26 AM   #1162
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Another guy here in Seattle has managed to fit Xray diffs front and rear. The front diff w/Kyosho sprocket goes right in. works fine now, and I think the Evola Steering parts do improve the car, every little bit helps.
Hey mate the nt1 front diff does not just drop in rrr. the nt1 bearings used with diff are 10x16x4 and the rrr are bigger 12x18
So i think to be able to put the nt1 diff in a rrr you will need to use xray bearings and the xray belt tension hubs.[/QUOTE]

Sorry bout that, My intention was not disinformation or incomplete info. I do know that the front diff was easy to fit compared to the rear diff. When he first showed up with his diff remodle, he had a complete Xray unit in the rear. He also said the #of teeth between the Xray and Kyosho sprokets were different, and this changed the front to rear gear ratio bias. Hence the trouble to combine the Xray diff housing w/Kyosho sproket. There was no mention of the difference in bearing sizes. So, when I see him again, I will ask the provocative questions everyone wants answers to. Sorry for the confusion.
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Old 05-26-2009, 11:21 AM   #1163
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To change over the front axle is somewhat of a job, but not bad if you have a small cordless screwdriver. Take the radio tray off and I take apart the front end as well. It doesn't take that long once you have done it a few times. If you think you are going to run a diff sometimes, I would use the older ackerman plates. The Evo 2 uses the one off of the M3 car. You kit probably came with the older ones. Start with the #11. I have not run a radio box in about 5 years, but if you feel better using one, go ahead. The only downside is the extra weight.

Must have hopups? Probably not, but there are benefits to some of the hopups. I don't know if your car came with CVD's but if it didn't, I would run them in the front. For racing applications, if you run a spool, the YBSLOW front spool is less than half the weight of the steel spool. I wouldn't use it all the time as it will wear more quickly, but when you are serious that is the time to go for it. I really like the convenience of clamping wheel hexes. I use the ones made for the Team Magic G4. The Kyosho SP belts free up your drivetrain quite a bit. APP brake pads are a good upgrade. I would also pick up some steel pinions (at least first gear pinions).
I meant to ask you if you use an aluminum front/rear radio tray brace. I noticed there is quite a bit of flex with the plastic one, is this good for my gears? I can't imagine that amount of flex can be good.
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Old 05-26-2009, 01:58 PM   #1164
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Tried the 24t this weekend at 301. Made the car handle a litle funny. Was a little harder to drive. It might of been just me, not sure. Will put the 23t back in for next week and see how the can handles. As far as tire wear it was very consistant, that I did like.
what mid belt did you use 387 or 384? was the car any faster?
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Old 05-26-2009, 02:06 PM   #1165
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what mid belt did you use 387 or 384? was the car any faster?
what difference can the other belt do?the diff is only in length,so?
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Old 05-26-2009, 02:12 PM   #1166
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Jus curious to see any change in speed one belt has more teeth...
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Old 05-26-2009, 02:13 PM   #1167
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guys i saw yesterday these new parts in kyosho page.

http://www.kyosho.com/eng/products/rc/newparts.html.
the rear hubs can be used on rrr-evo-evo 2.
i think that thy done them because the pivot balls was a lot unscrewed in the evo 2 and zero offset.
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Old 05-26-2009, 02:16 PM   #1168
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Jus curious to see any change in speed one belt has more teeth...
change in speed with the 24 pulley or you are saying that the 1 more teeth in belt can make a speed change?

i don't think that the belt has something to do with the speed.
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Old 05-26-2009, 04:16 PM   #1169
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guys i saw yesterday these new parts in kyosho page.

http://www.kyosho.com/eng/products/rc/newparts.html.
the rear hubs can be used on rrr-evo-evo 2.
i think that thy done them because the pivot balls was a lot unscrewed in the evo 2 and zero offset.
"New rear hub moves the fulcrum of the 9mm balls 2mm further out. Also ideal for use on the RRR EVO2. "

So this is basically a tuning option for roll center. Recently Shepherd released a new super wide rear arm layout and apparently other manufacturers are looking at that as well because moving the hub another 2mm on top of the evo2's 2mm is quite a dramatic change from the original car with the 2mm offset wheels.

Gregory is correct, the belt length has nothing to do with the speed of the pulleys attached to it.
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Old 05-26-2009, 04:20 PM   #1170
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what mid belt did you use 387 or 384? was the car any faster?
I ran the 384 belt. It wasn't faster. According to the time sheet it was slower. It felt slower too. It made the car push coming out the corner, which made it harder to drive.
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