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Old 03-11-2009, 09:26 AM   #856
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Originally Posted by Randy Caster View Post
Scott, I noticed that you and Walter are both running the 3 weight flywheel. What are the benefits over the 2 weight (WC) setup? I just rebuilt my clutch with 4 weights to try out, but I'm going to Kyosho tomorrow to pick up some parts, was thinking of getting the Sirio clutch to try out as well..
The Sirio Power Clutch set-up Rocks! I never really liked the new 2D clutch and had gone back to the 3D set-up prior to getting the Sirio/Capricorn power clutch for my Evo II. Can't see ever going back to the factory clutch at all. It simply allows my motor to spool up so much quicker no matter what motor I put it on.

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Old 03-11-2009, 10:47 AM   #857
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Glad to hear that clutch setup is more to your liking.

Randy: He is correct. I am not using the 3D clutch. I run the 2d with 4 weights and the grey shoe. I run .3mm-.4mm gap with vitually no endplay.
Ok, just noticed in the setup sheet the VS029 flywheel was listed, but it looks like that comes printed on the sheet now that I looked again. I was running the 2d with about .6mm endplay, so I'll take all of that out as well. I'll build my clutch up with 4 weights and see if it feels any better, if not, I'll switch out to the Sirio clutch.

On the setup sheet it lists the adjuster nut at 1.2mm, another novice question, but what is that?

The only thing I'm questioning now is if I should try a front diff, or leave the spool in. I'm making a few changes to the car that should help get the steering I'm looking for with the spool, but with all the tight corners on this layout I still think a diff might be needed.
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Old 03-11-2009, 11:02 AM   #858
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The only thing I'm questioning now is if I should try a front diff, or leave the spool in. I'm making a few changes to the car that should help get the steering I'm looking for with the spool, but with all the tight corners on this layout I still think a diff might be needed.
Hey Randy you should try out both spool & diff just too see how it feels that is the best way to figure it out...and go from there plus you need to have multiple front differential in your parts case, I have a one way, spool, and a diff in my case and I've race with all three...
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Old 03-11-2009, 11:05 AM   #859
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What up Scott nice meeting you this weekend...
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Old 03-11-2009, 11:08 AM   #860
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Originally Posted by Speyederjedi View Post
The Sirio Power Clutch set-up Rocks! I never really liked the new 2D clutch and had gone back to the 3D set-up prior to getting the Sirio/Capricorn power clutch for my Evo II. Can't see ever going back to the factory clutch at all. It simply allows my motor to spool up so much quicker no matter what motor I put it on.

Regards,
Speyederjedi

I also own a sirio power clutch and the clutch setup I use works just as well.
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Old 03-11-2009, 11:09 AM   #861
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What up Scott nice meeting you this weekend...
Nice meeting you as well.
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Old 03-11-2009, 11:24 AM   #862
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Hey Randy you should try out both spool & diff just too see how it feels that is the best way to figure it out...and go from there plus you need to have multiple front differential in your parts case, I have a one way, spool, and a diff in my case and I've race with all three...
Probably a good idea, until I can get the hang of nitro sedan and get up to speed though I'll mostly just be running at CP, so at least when I find what I like in the front I can just stick to it rather than having to switch out for different tracks. I've already got 2 of the 3 at least, so I'm not too far off

My problem is that my car felt pretty good, but watching Mike Suager run, he had to be at least a second a lap faster out there, so I've still got a lot of work to do to figure out where all of that time is coming from.
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Old 03-11-2009, 11:25 AM   #863
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I also own a sirio power clutch and the clutch setup I use works just as well.
That has to be the best news I've heard I built my clutch up with about .1-.2mm endplay, 0 endplay and the clutch bell would bind on the shoe.
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Old 03-11-2009, 11:45 AM   #864
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That has to be the best news I've heard I built my clutch up with about .1-.2mm endplay, 0 endplay and the clutch bell would bind on the shoe.
Try builiding it with .4mm gap and just enough endplay to keep from binding. You had asked what I meant by 1.2mm on the spring. When you turn the adjusting nut to tighten the clutch spring, it should be about 1.2mm below the end of the flywheel nut (which is what it threads onto)

FYI: Mike Swaugers speed comes from a lot more than just his car. There are a few reasons why he is champion.
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Old 03-11-2009, 05:05 PM   #865
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Now I'm a bit more confused, lol.

I have tightened the centax nut to where the distance between the flywheel nut and the centax nut is roughly .4mm. Is this what you're referring to as the .4mm gap that you're suggesting? If so, then I'm lost again on what the 1.2mm gap is.

For the endplay, this is in reference to the assembled clutch assembly, correct? I'm thinking this is basically the "slack" in the clutchbell between the shoe and the thrust bearing? Right now I have mine set just to where it doesn't bind on the shoe.

I know Mike has a ton of experience, probably the best engine on the track, and so on, but I'd still like to figure out my car good enough to where I will at least have a shot at a win up there... Tons of novice questions, but I'm learning
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Old 03-11-2009, 05:24 PM   #866
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Now I'm a bit more confused, lol.

I have tightened the centax nut to where the distance between the flywheel nut and the centax nut is roughly .4mm. Is this what you're referring to as the .4mm gap that you're suggesting? If so, then I'm lost again on what the 1.2mm gap is.

For the endplay, this is in reference to the assembled clutch assembly, correct? I'm thinking this is basically the "slack" in the clutchbell between the shoe and the thrust bearing? Right now I have mine set just to where it doesn't bind on the shoe.

I know Mike has a ton of experience, probably the best engine on the track, and so on, but I'd still like to figure out my car good enough to where I will at least have a shot at a win up there... Tons of novice questions, but I'm learning
When Swauger is racing, everyone else is racing for second place, just hope that he breaks. You should be shooting for guys like Nigel Sim, Walter Diaz and Brian Thomas. If you can stay with them, you're going pretty fast. Swauger makes everyone else look slow.
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Old 03-11-2009, 05:54 PM   #867
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This might be helpful.

http://www.rccompetitionmag.com/inde...tup&Itemid=134

The 1.2mm gap he's talking about is when you tighten down the spring collar, measure the threads that are showing from the end of the flywheel nut(the one with threads on it) to the top of the spring collar. This is 1.2mm.

The 0.4mm is the gap from the clutch shoe to the bell housing. This is measured by taking out the inner bearing and shims if there are any. Assemble the outer bearing, thrust assembly and cap screw. Now move the bell back and forth. You need to shim after the thrust bearing so that this movement is 0.4mm with the screw tightened down.

For end play, you install shims on the shaft before you put the inner bearing on. Shim this until you can barely move the clutch bell back and forth with the screw tight. Make sure the bell spins freely with the shaft pointed up and down.
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Old 03-11-2009, 06:04 PM   #868
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When Swauger is racing, everyone else is racing for second place, just hope that he breaks. You should be shooting for guys like Nigel Sim, Walter Diaz and Brian Thomas. If you can stay with them, you're going pretty fast. Swauger makes everyone else look slow.
No doubt that Mike's the man at CP, but if you're not racing to win, why race?

Gotta aim high!
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Old 03-11-2009, 06:06 PM   #869
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This might be helpful.

http://www.rccompetitionmag.com/inde...tup&Itemid=134

The 1.2mm gap he's talking about is when you tighten down the spring collar, measure the threads that are showing from the end of the flywheel nut(the one with threads on it) to the top of the spring collar. This is 1.2mm.

The 0.4mm is the gap from the clutch shoe to the bell housing. This is measured by taking out the inner bearing and shims if there are any. Assemble the outer bearing, thrust assembly and cap screw. Now move the bell back and forth. You need to shim after the thrust bearing so that this movement is 0.4mm with the screw tightened down.

For end play, you install shims on the shaft before you put the inner bearing on. Shim this until you can barely move the clutch bell back and forth with the screw tight. Make sure the bell spins freely with the shaft pointed up and down.
Wow, my clutch was probably built waay off after that info... Thanks!
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Old 03-11-2009, 06:14 PM   #870
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One other thing I want to clairfy regarding my setup sheet. This is regarding the rear camber link. My rear camber link is mounted into the hole marked number 2 and there is a 1mm shim between the camber link and the rear hub carrier.

Nitrodude and I rarely agree, but this time we do. There is nothing wrong with shooting to beat Mike, but definitely walk before you run. That isn't meant as an insult.

FYI: Mike is in contention anywhere in the world, not just at CP.
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