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Old 02-12-2009, 06:24 PM   #751
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I guess I had some trouble with clearance of the stering arm itself. I shaved a little bit off and no problems. Thanks for the info on the receiver box.

Also, Stayed up to 1:00 last night and finally finished the car. I've always had a question on the break though. I know pulling the bar forward pulls the break arm forward which causes the little metal piece to push out against the backside of the break pad and pus them together. When you lay off the break/throttle servo though is there suppose to be something that actually pushes the break arm back?

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no .. there is no need for something to push the break lever back
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Old 02-13-2009, 09:45 AM   #752
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Where can I find setup sheets for the Evo 2? I'm looking for a setup for Crystal Park..
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Old 02-14-2009, 05:21 AM   #753
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hey guys,
when building your rrr evo 2, did you guys re-do the fluid in the bearings, or just straight run out of the box should be fine?
Also, how precise where your measurements for e.g the steering servo and rod, suspension arms, rear bulkheads, rear stablizer etc...i used a ruler lol but bought a digital caliper and going to do redo everything to ensure everything is precise.
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Old 02-14-2009, 06:35 AM   #754
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You should redo it, a ruler is not as accurate as a digital caliper.
I also just lightly reoil the bearings before i put them into the new beast.
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Old 02-14-2009, 07:38 AM   #755
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You should redo it, a ruler is not as accurate as a digital caliper.
I also just lightly reoil the bearings before i put them into the new beast.
Remember, one of the marvels of Human Engineering was done with rulers, protractors, angles, and other simple tools to create the SR-71 Blackbird.
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Old 02-14-2009, 12:15 PM   #756
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Very true harry, very true. But remember this harry, an itch in your pops pant`s made you,lol,lol,lol that was the most simplest of tools
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Old 02-14-2009, 02:52 PM   #757
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Hello,

I'm having a hard tiome findign a body long enough for the evo 2 wc. Is it me or is the bumber extra big. Anyway, any body brands you recommend?
Looking for Ferrari or Lamborghini body.

Thanks
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Old 02-14-2009, 04:18 PM   #758
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Hello,

I'm having a hard tiome findign a body long enough for the evo 2 wc. Is it me or is the bumber extra big. Anyway, any body brands you recommend?
Looking for Ferrari or Lamborghini body.

Thanks
You should be running the smaller of the front plastic bumpers, and don't be afraid to trim the foam bumper to fit a body.
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Old 02-14-2009, 07:22 PM   #759
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i used the foam bumper from the cyclone TC and fits perfect and i still have the bemper that came w/it nice and new in my parts box
check the pic a page back
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Old 02-14-2009, 08:38 PM   #760
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Thanks for the advice on the bumper.

Got another question on the clutch. I can't figure out what I need to fix. After I start it with the starter box, the first 2-3 throws of the throttle will give me a nice burst of speed (i.e. wheels spinning; and when holding the car in the air I get that nice kick), but after that it seems as though I can't get the car to go fast at all (no more kick with the throttle). It's like something has "slipped." I've tighten things down, have loosened the tension on the spring, place some extra washers so as to narrow the gap between the pad and clutch bell, and still no go. Could it be that the weights are too light, and it's not giving the pads enough push against the clutch bell?

I've done everything I can think of and it's driving me crazy. Any beneit in changing the weights w/ the ones in my HPI R40? Any suggestion would be appreciated.

Thanks, Duc
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Old 02-14-2009, 09:32 PM   #761
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Thanks for the advice on the bumper.

Got another question on the clutch. I can't figure out what I need to fix. After I start it with the starter box, the first 2-3 throws of the throttle will give me a nice burst of speed (i.e. wheels spinning; and when holding the car in the air I get that nice kick), but after that it seems as though I can't get the car to go fast at all (no more kick with the throttle). It's like something has "slipped." I've tighten things down, have loosened the tension on the spring, place some extra washers so as to narrow the gap between the pad and clutch bell, and still no go. Could it be that the weights are too light, and it's not giving the pads enough push against the clutch bell?

I've done everything I can think of and it's driving me crazy. Any beneit in changing the weights w/ the ones in my HPI R40? Any suggestion would be appreciated.

Thanks, Duc
So you are saying that everytime you start the car from cold it does this, or did it work well a few times and now it never worked right again?
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Old 02-14-2009, 09:34 PM   #762
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Essentially everytime I start it from cold. However, I just put the car togther, and have just started working on tuning the engine. Would this happen if the car is running to rich. Is it possible with the first throw or two of the throttle, there's still small amt of fuel in the chamber and so it still "lean" and by the next few throws of the throotle I'm just "flooding" it out?


Thanks

Last edited by dvu; 02-15-2009 at 06:33 AM.
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Old 02-15-2009, 09:17 AM   #763
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Figured it out. I think it was running too rich.
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Old 02-15-2009, 03:09 PM   #764
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Does Kyosho have a front spool available? If so a part # would be appreciated, and if not, is there one available from an aftermarket source?

Thanks!
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Old 02-15-2009, 03:35 PM   #765
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Does Kyosho have a front spool available? If so a part # would be appreciated, and if not, is there one available from an aftermarket source?

Thanks!
Front spool#click here KYO wzw220.
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