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Old 02-09-2009, 05:11 AM   #721
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Originally Posted by beers4evo View Post
I assume 1 is the loose and 2 is tight?
You have to follow the manual . The belt tensions 66 are mark as L and R . Have the car in front of you in a way that the rear of the car is facing you as if it was driving away from you. So now the left bulk is at ur left hand and the right bulk head is on ur right hand side . So now if u put the belt tension mark L in the right bulk head in position one and the belt tension 66 marked R in the left bulk head in position one you have a loose belt setting . so you just have to follow the other setting the same way . you cant say one is the looser setting Cos if you had the third setting from the manual position one is also a tighter belt position if you had changed the sides of L and R 66 on the bulk head . just make sure the thick area on 66 is always opposite to L and R . you can easily put them in wrong which leaves your diff or axle not even on each side.
hope this helps
Cheers
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Old 02-09-2009, 05:19 AM   #722
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Originally Posted by lolgager View Post
Hi guys,

Im still new with rrr...
have one question regarding selecting belt..
is there any difference between the belt starting with vzw and vz (ie. vzw203/vz234 rear belt) p/n. which one better?
pls help..
thx
VZW are the sp optional belt. The material they are made of is different to the stock VZ . Hence the VZW are of low friction material better drive train.
i like to use The VZW belts when i am using a locker/ solid in the front . but when i am using a diff in the front i just use the stock belt VZ.
you should also try the belts made by kawahara they are pretty good if the track you race at is in fairly clean condition as the tend to chip tooth out if they pick up a stone .
cheers
Alex
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Old 02-09-2009, 05:39 AM   #723
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here is my EVO2 w/ & w/out the body
Attached Thumbnails
Kyosho V-ONE RRR EVO 2-dsc00148.jpg   Kyosho V-ONE RRR EVO 2-dsc00149.jpg  
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Old 02-09-2009, 07:49 AM   #724
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Hello,

Any ideas where I can get the right size servo horns for a futaba. I need both the steering and throttle.

Thanks
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Old 02-09-2009, 08:32 AM   #725
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Originally Posted by ccrcraceway View Post
VZW are the sp optional belt. The material they are made of is different to the stock VZ . Hence the VZW are of low friction material better drive train.
i like to use The VZW belts when i am using a locker/ solid in the front . but when i am using a diff in the front i just use the stock belt VZ.
you should also try the belts made by kawahara they are pretty good if the track you race at is in fairly clean condition as the tend to chip tooth out if they pick up a stone .
cheers
Alex
thanks for the explanation bro..
i assume the kawahara material is the same like vzw one..
normally the track i played is not so clean and possibility to chip tooth is high..
so i think i'll stick with vz type since it cost cheaper than vzw..
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Old 02-09-2009, 08:51 AM   #726
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Originally Posted by ccrcraceway View Post
You have to follow the manual . The belt tensions 66 are mark as L and R . Have the car in front of you in a way that the rear of the car is facing you as if it was driving away from you. So now the left bulk is at ur left hand and the right bulk head is on ur right hand side . So now if u put the belt tension mark L in the right bulk head in position one and the belt tension 66 marked R in the left bulk head in position one you have a loose belt setting . so you just have to follow the other setting the same way . you cant say one is the looser setting Cos if you had the third setting from the manual position one is also a tighter belt position if you had changed the sides of L and R 66 on the bulk head . just make sure the thick area on 66 is always opposite to L and R . you can easily put them in wrong which leaves your diff or axle not even on each side.
hope this helps
Cheers
Alex
ok makes alot of sense thanks...
i actually put the 'R' belt tension on the right bulk, in position ONE
and
put the 'L' belt tension on the left bulk, in position ONE.

According to the manual I think its just tight, and not VERY TIGHT.
Probably be better off with looser belt at first since is brand new ?

What do you mean "thick area of 66 is always opposite to L and R"?
You mean the letters should be facing inwards?

Thanks for your help too!
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Old 02-09-2009, 12:51 PM   #727
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Originally Posted by beers4evo View Post
ok makes alot of sense thanks...
i actually put the 'R' belt tension on the right bulk, in position ONE
and
put the 'L' belt tension on the left bulk, in position ONE.

According to the manual I think its just tight, and not VERY TIGHT.
Probably be better off with looser belt at first since is brand new ?

What do you mean "thick area of 66 is always opposite to L and R"?
You mean the letters should be facing inwards?

Thanks for your help too!
the plastic on one side of 66 gets thicker . if both L and R are symmetrical when yo have them in any position its all good then.
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Old 02-09-2009, 03:35 PM   #728
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Originally Posted by dvu View Post
Hello,

Any ideas where I can get the right size servo horns for a futaba. I need both the steering and throttle.

Thanks
go to your lhs and take your manual they should be able to help you out
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Old 02-09-2009, 05:01 PM   #729
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Hi, I know kyosho has always been great with quality and is up there with mugen and xray, but how does the evo 2 compare to the mtxr-4 and nt1 2008?

also is there a WC version of this, sorry if its mentioned but im at work cant really read all the posts..

finally I live in CT how is parts support for this car here in the new york area/ CT area?
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Old 02-09-2009, 05:31 PM   #730
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Originally Posted by rcrevolution View Post
Hi, I know kyosho has always been great with quality and is up there with mugen and xray, but how does the evo 2 compare to the mtxr-4 and nt1 2008?

also is there a WC version of this, sorry if its mentioned but im at work cant really read all the posts..

finally I live in CT how is parts support for this car here in the new york area/ CT area?
Durability wise it is at least as good as any other car.

There is a WC version of the Evo2

I don't live on in the East, but try Brooklyn Hobbies and or Ashford Hobby.
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Old 02-09-2009, 05:33 PM   #731
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Least as good????
Way better i think!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 02-09-2009, 07:24 PM   #732
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Least as good????
Way better i think!!!!!!!!!!!!
Yeah, but being a team driver there are some people that would never believe me if I said it was way better.
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Old 02-09-2009, 09:01 PM   #733
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrevolution View Post
Hi, I know kyosho has always been great with quality and is up there with mugen and xray, but how does the evo 2 compare to the mtxr-4 and nt1 2008?

also is there a WC version of this, sorry if its mentioned but im at work cant really read all the posts..

finally I live in CT how is parts support for this car here in the new york area/ CT area?
Here is a black and white comment, mugen, xray, kyosho all very exceptional cars, and all capable of winning world championships and have..i think...but bottom line is they all perform very well, the engine and driver what makes the car good. :P
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Old 02-10-2009, 02:08 AM   #734
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Originally Posted by beers4evo View Post
Here is a black and white comment, mugen, xray, kyosho all very exceptional cars, and all capable of winning world championships and have..i think...but bottom line is they all perform very well, the engine and driver what makes the car good. :P
With in the kyosho rrr family i would definitely go evo 2 . heap of steering and very well balanced car. my personal choice has always been stock version and i only upgrade the from dog bones to uni .
i have driven a friend's mtx4r didnt like the feel of it and definitely steering wasnt good compared to the evo 2. but in saying that the car was setup to his driving still. at the end of the day it all come to what one can afford and is comfortable driving in. expense and part availability should be a major concern. .
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Old 02-10-2009, 04:00 AM   #735
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hey guys, who has issues with pg 13 in the manual, in regards to setting up the rear bulkhead...This may sound crazy but the metal pieces with the 2 holes that supposably lines up with the plastic bit is suppose to line up but mine doesn't!! so theres no way i can screw it on....

Yes I'm referring to the exact screw holes in the manual for the plastic bit. There are other screw holes on the plastic bit, and the metal pieces line up fine there but this is not what the manual wants.

My post may not make sense when im saying "plastic bit" or "metal pieces" but please have a look at the manual to see what i mean.

plastic bit = part number 41
metal pieces = part number 172

thanks guys
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