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Old 01-22-2009, 10:04 AM   #691
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maybe this issue has been discuss a lot of times , but how do u guys usually replace your shock oil ? maybe few different methods out there.[/QUOTE]

rcabj,

When replacing my shock oil, if I'm at the track, I dump out the old oil, spray the shock chamber with Nitro Clean or Carb Cleaner and let it dry out. Then I put in the new oil and get out all the air with my shock pump. If I'm at my shop at home I do the same process except I disassemble each shock and check the shafts, pisons and o-rings just in case anything needs replacement.

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Old 01-23-2009, 01:05 AM   #692
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Originally Posted by Speyederjedi View Post

rcabj,

When replacing my shock oil, if I'm at the track, I dump out the old oil, spray the shock chamber with Nitro Clean or Carb Cleaner and let it dry out. Then I put in the new oil and get out all the air with my shock pump. If I'm at my shop at home I do the same process except I disassemble each shock and check the shafts, pisons and o-rings just in case anything needs replacement.

Regards,
Speyederjedi
thanks one more thing after completing changing the oil , i notice a few guys pushing the shaft all the way in to make sure there is rebound , normally half way is this crucial or not l
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Old 01-26-2009, 10:22 AM   #693
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does the locking block on the front diff work just as good as the spool?
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Old 01-26-2009, 01:00 PM   #694
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Originally Posted by olkleaf View Post
does the locking block on the front diff work just as good as the spool?
principal of working is the same . i have used them twice and both time i have striped the block . and its a pain to change them when you dont have much time on ur hand.
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Old 01-26-2009, 01:18 PM   #695
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does the locking block on the front diff work just as good as the spool?
olkleaf,

Yes, but there are a couple issues with using the block. They strip easy so you need to fill in the hollow spaces with a hard material. I've used JB Weld or the similar type steele putty which you can get at any auto parts store. Now the drawback to that is you are adding more spinning weight. I would say just use the spool. It's less work.

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Old 01-26-2009, 01:26 PM   #696
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Originally Posted by rcabj View Post
thanks one more thing after completing changing the oil , i notice a few guys pushing the shaft all the way in to make sure there is rebound , normally half way is this crucial or not l

rcabj,

I do make sure there is rebound and that the shaft can in fact be pushed in all the way and does rebound to the full extension of what the arm allows. If you cannot push the shaft in all the way until it bottoms out then you have too much oil. If you push it in and it does not rebound then you don't have enough oil. The other thing I like is for the rebound to be slow and not immediate. That's just what works for me. Others may have different suggestions.

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Old 01-26-2009, 01:40 PM   #697
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Originally Posted by ccrcraceway View Post
principal of working is the same . i have used them twice and both time i have striped the block . and its a pain to change them when you dont have much time on ur hand.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Speyederjedi View Post
olkleaf,

Yes, but there are a couple issues with using the block. They strip easy so you need to fill in the hollow spaces with a hard material. I've used JB Weld or the similar type steele putty which you can get at any auto parts store. Now the drawback to that is you are adding more spinning weight. I would say just use the spool. It's less work.

Regards,
Speyederjedi
thanks, i was worried that the locking block wasn't going to be durable enough
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Old 01-28-2009, 08:23 PM   #698
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speyederjedi View Post
rcabj,

I do make sure there is rebound and that the shaft can in fact be pushed in all the way and does rebound to the full extension of what the arm allows. If you cannot push the shaft in all the way until it bottoms out then you have too much oil. If you push it in and it does not rebound then you don't have enough oil. The other thing I like is for the rebound to be slow and not immediate. That's just what works for me. Others may have different suggestions.

Regards,
Speyederjedi
thanks again for the explanation
i hate it when it comes to refilling the shocks
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Old 01-28-2009, 08:41 PM   #699
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hey guys, im looking into getting a touring car for the tracks and rrr evo 2 and xray nt1 are in my mind. Is there a big difference with the special parts in the rrr evo 2 wc edition then just the evo 2 itself? I've seen the specs and I'm just wondering if its worth buying the wc editioin.
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Old 01-28-2009, 09:20 PM   #700
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hey guys, im looking into getting a touring car for the tracks and rrr evo 2 and xray nt1 are in my mind. Is there a big difference with the special parts in the rrr evo 2 wc edition then just the evo 2 itself? I've seen the specs and I'm just wondering if its worth buying the wc editioin.

going with the wc is worth it, i have two friends that bought just the non wc kit when it just came out and they ended up spending about half the cost of the difference. alum hex adaptor,cvd's cause the dogbone would always pop out, and i forgot there were a couple more things that they had issues with.
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Old 01-28-2009, 10:05 PM   #701
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yeah , just get the wc u'll be satisfy... the price difference is not that much considering the hop up u'll get.

front and rear uj.
c/fibre front shock tower.
monoblock engine mount.
blade type rear antirol bar.
alu. wheel adaptor.
middle and rear option shaft.
option shock shaft.
alu. pulley adaptor.

it'll cost a fortune just to get this things on to the stock kit
did i left anything else.
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Old 01-30-2009, 04:23 AM   #702
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hey guys
i wanna cut my body post but i dont want to ct it too short. where do u guys cut your body post? or what hole on the body post you put your body pins (front and rear)
thanks
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Old 01-30-2009, 08:57 AM   #703
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Originally Posted by dg8one View Post
hey guys
i wanna cut my body post but i dont want to ct it too short. where do u guys cut your body post? or what hole on the body post you put your body pins (front and rear)
thanks
Adjust to your body A rule of thumb leave at least 2 holes above the body and adjust cut right above the 2 hole front & rear so you can lower or raise the body, the should work finethat's I cut my post.....
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Old 02-03-2009, 08:26 AM   #704
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Questions?? Clutch

Hello,

Anybody knows if I can use the centax III clutch of Serpent in my Voneevo 2?

Thanks a lot
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Old 02-04-2009, 04:15 PM   #705
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Default Front Oneway assembly

Hi there,

Im building my kit and was on the Front Oneway already, however, i just found out that the FRONT ONEWAY COLLAR (Key#74) was missing on the parts bag (or did i mislook it) . is it a must to install it??? Is it a plastic or aluminum type or just a washer.


Thanks in advance.
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