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Old 09-25-2008, 07:35 PM   #361
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Originally Posted by Baedarlboo View Post
don't crash...
I try not too

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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Make sure your brake cam isn't binding in the bulkhead, this happened to me and I missed a heat taking the bulkhead off and sanding the cam down. Otherwise the kit setup is very good, and a .5mm clutch gap seems about right with the 2d.
thanks man for the info.
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Old 09-25-2008, 09:43 PM   #362
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I don't know if this has been posted or not but anyhow here's the link to the new Evo 2 WC.

http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/products/r...duct_id=104157
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Old 09-26-2008, 11:31 PM   #363
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Originally Posted by dameetz View Post
I don't know if this has been posted or not but anyhow here's the link to the new Evo 2 WC.

http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/products/r...duct_id=104157
I stared at it for five minutes and couldn't notice any difference over the standard evo2.

One photo shows a rear blade sway bar, the other shows a stock one.

Can anyone translate?
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Old 09-26-2008, 11:45 PM   #364
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from my post #251 http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...evo-2-a-9.html my imagine is true
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Old 09-27-2008, 03:04 AM   #365
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Here are the differences:

●Approximately universal joint (VZW219 and VSW006)
●9mm ball screw hard type
●Rear adjustable stabilizer
●Adjustment rod (for rear adjustable stubby)
●Muffler stay holder (aluminum make)
●Aluminum drive washer
●SP drive belt (front, middle and rear)
●FRP battery plate
●FRP middle plate
●Hollow middle shaft
●Aluminum dress engine mount
●Titanium coating damper shaft (30mm)
●Light/write weight 1st gear housing
●Sealed bearing 6103mm (servo saber section)

Basically just a hopped up EVO2, no chassis/geometry changes
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Old 09-27-2008, 06:43 AM   #366
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Novarossi View Post
Here are the differences:

●Approximately universal joint (VZW219 and VSW006)
●9mm ball screw hard type
●Rear adjustable stabilizer
●Adjustment rod (for rear adjustable stubby)
●Muffler stay holder (aluminum make)
●Aluminum drive washer
●SP drive belt (front, middle and rear)
●FRP battery plate
●FRP middle plate
●Hollow middle shaft
●Aluminum dress engine mount
●Titanium coating damper shaft (30mm)
●Light/write weight 1st gear housing
●Sealed bearing 6103mm (servo saber section)

Basically just a hopped up EVO2, no chassis/geometry changes
That's the kit to have, the evo wc with the new geometry of the evo2. Not sure why they released both, but I guess there is a market for both cars so they did.

I love how they put the world champion logo on it like this was the car that won, it's almost as funny as Xray being vice champion of everything. Marketing at its finest.
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Old 09-27-2008, 09:25 AM   #367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Bosley View Post
That's the kit to have, the evo wc with the new geometry of the evo2. Not sure why they released both, but I guess there is a market for both cars so they did.

I love how they put the world champion logo on it like this was the car that won, it's almost as funny as Xray being vice champion of everything. Marketing at its finest.
Brian Kyosho has the right to bear the WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP LOGO
Since it has had the same platform since it became WORLD CHAMPION so many years ago.
Your comment make's you sound like such a dumbass or should I refer to using your old username BRIANHATESNITRO
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Old 09-27-2008, 12:31 PM   #368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Bosley View Post
That's the kit to have, the evo wc with the new geometry of the evo2. Not sure why they released both, but I guess there is a market for both cars so they did.

I love how they put the world champion logo on it like this was the car that won, it's almost as funny as Xray being vice champion of everything. Marketing at its finest.
What New Geometry? 0 offset ?
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Old 09-27-2008, 02:44 PM   #369
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KYOSHO !! - old video, but it's a KYOSHO !! There are no substitutes ! To be the best, you have to race with the best - Kyosho.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 09-27-2008, 07:39 PM   #370
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Ive got an RRR WC Edition, would I be able to use the new -C spur gears without any problems, or would I need a new shaft, and spur housing??

Cheers.
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Old 09-27-2008, 11:22 PM   #371
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Originally Posted by rcrossco_1 View Post
Ive got an RRR WC Edition, would I be able to use the new -C spur gears without any problems, or would I need a new shaft, and spur housing??

Cheers.
Yes you can use em
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Old 09-28-2008, 07:53 PM   #372
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What ackerman gives you more steering over the stock setting "B".

Basically looking for the equivilent of #12 (as per Josh's tip below)

Servo Saver - #10 is great for if you need a lot of steering and the corners are more high speed and flowing. If you have any tight chicanes or sections where you change directions and the car gets loose then it is best to run a #12. #12 (more ackerman) reduces oversteer in the center of the corner while making the car react a lot faster through chicanes without making the rear of the car step out.
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Old 09-28-2008, 08:20 PM   #373
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Novarossi View Post
What ackerman gives you more steering over the stock setting "B".

Basically looking for the equivilent of #12 (as per Josh's tip below)

Servo Saver - #10 is great for if you need a lot of steering and the corners are more high speed and flowing. If you have any tight chicanes or sections where you change directions and the car gets loose then it is best to run a #12. #12 (more ackerman) reduces oversteer in the center of the corner while making the car react a lot faster through chicanes without making the rear of the car step out.
Try the A settings
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Old 09-29-2008, 05:14 AM   #374
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Cheers, thanks

How do you guys keep your 5th body post intact? Mine comes loose after a days racing, or I strip it screwing it in (up to my third one already!)

I was thinking of getting the Kfactory Aluminium 5th Post to eliminate the problem, but it looks too short (anyone using one)??

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-rrr...c8b783e7378d34
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Old 09-29-2008, 11:28 AM   #375
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Novarossi View Post
Cheers, thanks

How do you guys keep your 5th body post intact? Mine comes loose after a days racing, or I strip it screwing it in (up to my third one already!)

I was thinking of getting the Kfactory Aluminium 5th Post to eliminate the problem, but it looks too short (anyone using one)??

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-rrr...c8b783e7378d34
On your third post, Drop a few drops of CA in the post hole and allow it to dry before installing it. Ever since I have done this, I only have to replace the post for the Body clip hole wearing out.
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