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Old 09-17-2008, 01:40 PM   #301
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Originally Posted by Scott Fisher View Post
From the picture it looks like he is using the Sirio Power Clutch.

If you don't have enough punch from the IDM engine with the Kyosho clutch, I think you don't have your clutch setup properly. Either that or your engine isn't running right. The IDM engine has sick bottom end power. If you are using the stock EVO 2 clutch, you should have the 2D clutch. Most I know of have been running that with the stock spring and 4 fly weights. I normally have used the grey shoe with that setup and usually have to detune the setup with the IDM engine.

I also have a Sirio EVO 4 STI engine and run it with the power clutch and it is also very punchy, but a bit more linear on its power band.
Scott,

You're probably right. I've only raced the kit once with my Ninja .12 and it was pretty good so I switched engines for this last weekend to see if my IDM would be better. We didn't have enough racers show up due to Hurricane Ike hitting so close to San Antonio so we didn't race. I didn't really get much track time or time to adjust the clutch. I think I need to remove a shim, it doesn't appear to have enough end play. I need to measure it and make sure I get .3 to .4 mm end play. Is the Sirio Power Clutch more aggressive than the stock 2d set up? And how much of a difference is there going from 2 weight setup to 4 weights?

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Old 09-17-2008, 02:16 PM   #302
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Originally Posted by Speyederjedi View Post
Novarossi,

What clutch setup is it that you are using? From the photos it's not stock. Kit looks ready to rock. Nice motor and pipe selection. I'm currently running and IDM .12 in my RRR Evo 2 but am anticipating the arrival of my Sirio Evo IV motor and pipe setup. Please let me know how the clutch set up works out. I may be looking to change over from the stock setup. I need a little more punch from my clutch.

Regards,
Speyederjedi
It is the Sirio power clutch. I am taking it out this weekend, so will update you with how it goes.
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Old 09-17-2008, 06:58 PM   #303
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Default Solid Spool - new material??

I have a standard RRR but this forum has been idle for a while...

Im using the universals (VZW054) which came with the RRR WC kit but after a while the spool's outdrives split/opened up and the universal's pins were getting pushed into the outdrives. In the forum they advised to use universal VZW219 which are 2mm longer with the spool which I will need to try out.

I purchased the Kyosho spool as well as the KM Racing spool.

My question is:
The spool I just got has a brown (almost rusty) colour compared to black for the original one I had.
Has Kyosho changed the material to make it stronger?
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Old 09-17-2008, 07:01 PM   #304
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Originally Posted by KyoshoKid View Post
My question is:
The spool I just got has a brown (almost rusty) colour compared to black for the original one I had.
Has Kyosho changed the material to make it stronger?
I have the same colour (see photos above), must be trying to copy XRAY
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Old 09-17-2008, 07:41 PM   #305
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Originally Posted by Novarossi View Post
It is the Sirio power clutch. I am taking it out this weekend, so will update you with how it goes.
Moorebank? I'll be rolling out my evo2 on Sunday too, using the 2D clutch and my OS Speed TZ Spec 2 so it'll be interesting to compare
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Old 09-17-2008, 08:07 PM   #306
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Moorebank? I'll be rolling out my evo2 on Sunday too, using the 2D clutch and my OS Speed TZ Spec 2 so it'll be interesting to compare
Yep, Moorebank.

I am hoping to break in my 353 on Saturday so I don't waste half the club day running in the motor, and can concentrate more setup, still not sure if I can break it in before hand.

I also have a Sirio EVO4 with a 2611 pipe, so there will be alot learnt over the next couple of months.

Come over and say hi.

Michael.
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Old 09-17-2008, 08:20 PM   #307
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Will be at Morrebank to this sunday with my evo2 but won't be running. Still have a few more things to get sorted first like getting servo horns. Oh yeah just remember, still have the body to do as well
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Old 09-17-2008, 09:58 PM   #308
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To answer a variety of questions.

The Kyosho spool for over a year now is not black. The grey/brown steel spool lasts a long time and you shouldn't have problems with it. The only real downside to the Kyosho spool is weight. The YBSLOW spool weighs less than half but of course being aluminum it will last about 4 gallons of fuel.

Regarding clutch comparisons:

I have never run the 2D clutch with only 2 weights. When I got my first 2D clutch I was told by my teammates that it was difficult to setup using only 2 weights. I never ran it that way.

The 2D clutch with 4 weights is better than the 3D. That is my opinion. It hits harder and I prefer it. I very rarely use the 3D clutch anymore.
I only have one Sirio power clutch and it has always been on my EVO 4 STI engine. I have never put a Kyosho clutch on Sirio engine so I cannot compare the Sirio clutch to the Kyosho clutch. When I ordered my EVO 4 STI engine I ordered the power clutch at the same time since my experience with the EVO 3 STI engine had told me a little more punch might be a good thing and I just assumed that the power clutch had been optimized for the Sirio EVO 4 engines.

My 2D and 3D clutches have been on several IDM EVO 3 sedan engines as well as a Novarossi 12-3 SCT tuned and I always have more bottom end with the 2D.
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Old 09-17-2008, 11:09 PM   #309
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Hi Scott (or others).

What upstop / downstop settings are a good starting point for the EVO2? The setup sheet is in Japanese and I cannot make sense of it.
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Old 09-18-2008, 12:23 AM   #310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Novarossi View Post
Hi Scott (or others).

What upstop / downstop settings are a good starting point for the EVO2? The setup sheet is in Japanese and I cannot make sense of it.
I usually start at 1 in the front and 4 in the rear.
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Old 09-18-2008, 05:51 AM   #311
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How much sideway play do you guys allow on the gearbox?

There is probably 3-4mm movement side to side (not used to this amount of play with the NT1, MTX4R).

Do you guys shim it out, or is this normal on the Kyosho?

See photo.
Attached Thumbnails
Kyosho V-ONE RRR EVO 2-gearbox.jpg  
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Old 09-18-2008, 06:23 AM   #312
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Do the changes in the kit make major differences over the RRR WC kit or are they more subtle ?


Thanks
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Old 09-18-2008, 06:32 AM   #313
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my first gear has about .5 of a mil of play and isn't 100% true, which I'm not used to either coming from an mtx4r. 3-4mm sounds a bit excessive tho

We'll compare cars on Sunday, mine'll be the black and white one, provided I finish cutting my body out
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Old 09-18-2008, 08:21 AM   #314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Novarossi View Post
How much sideway play do you guys allow on the gearbox?

There is probably 3-4mm movement side to side (not used to this amount of play with the NT1, MTX4R).

Do you guys shim it out, or is this normal on the Kyosho?

See photo.
That is normal, but I shim it to remove most of the play.
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Old 09-18-2008, 08:30 AM   #315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Novarossi View Post
How much sideway play do you guys allow on the gearbox?

There is probably 3-4mm movement side to side (not used to this amount of play with the NT1, MTX4R).

Do you guys shim it out, or is this normal on the Kyosho?

See photo.
Novarossi,

Did you mean .30-.40mm movement??? Because 3-4mm is a major amount of play and I would say something is wrong with the way it was assembled if you have that much play. .3 to .4 mm is normal. If you're worried about that much end play you could shimm between the bulkhead bearing and 2 speed hub. This is what I've done in the past with the RRR WC and RRR Evo but I haven't done to my RRR Evo 2 and it hasn't had any gear problems or failures. Been running the kit for a month with the same gears and no problems what so ever. Haven't even broken anything on the car. AAHHH CRAP!!! I just jinxed it!! Guess I'll be replacing some parts this weekend. Shouldn't have said anything.

Regards,
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