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Old 09-09-2008, 11:46 AM   #271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Novarossi View Post
I am alittle confused here...

APP02-2 BRAKE.

Which is it?



OR

The picture of the APP pad you have is of the backside of the pad. Basically you are looking at the backing plate. If you flip it over it will look like the first picture.
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Old 09-09-2008, 02:58 PM   #272
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He could also have the APP01-1
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Old 09-09-2008, 11:21 PM   #273
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I picked up a set of the KM racing carbon backed pads on the weekend. They come with a pair of springs that sit between the pads to help them disengage quicker - looks pretty trick. I'll post how they go for stopping power once I've given them a run
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Old 09-10-2008, 03:15 PM   #274
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LAST OPTIONAL PART QUESTION, I PROMISE

1. Does the EVO2 use the same gearbox shaft as the RRR?

2. Will VZW102 fit the EVO2?

3. Is there a significant weight difference between the standard gearbox shaft and VZW102?

I have about 70grams to play with so looking to shed some weight.
Attached Thumbnails
Kyosho V-ONE RRR EVO 2-shaft.jpg  
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Old 09-10-2008, 04:55 PM   #275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Novarossi View Post
LAST OPTIONAL PART QUESTION, I PROMISE

1. Does the EVO2 use the same gearbox shaft as the RRR?

2. Will VZW102 fit the EVO2?

3. Is there a significant weight difference between the standard gearbox shaft and VZW102?

I have about 70grams to play with so looking to shed some weight.
nup, the 2 speed is different and so is the shaft. I would think a hollow shaft would save around 20g. Get a set of Ti screws (save ~30g) and an alloy heat sink for your engine and you should be pretty close. Don't forget to weigh your car using the brand of tyres you intend to race with and at the diameter they will be after the final
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Old 09-10-2008, 05:09 PM   #276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
nup, the 2 speed is different and so is the shaft. I would think a hollow shaft would save around 20g. Get a set of Ti screws (save ~30g) and an alloy heat sink for your engine and you should be pretty close. Don't forget to weigh your car using the brand of tyres you intend to race with and at the diameter they will be after the final
Where can I get a set of Ti screws? Is there a set for the EVO, or do you buy each one individually?
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Old 09-10-2008, 07:45 PM   #277
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Originally Posted by Novarossi View Post
Where can I get a set of Ti screws? Is there a set for the EVO, or do you buy each one individually?
I would imagine there is a pack... I haven't really looked yet. I know champ makes their own ti and alu screw kits for cars, it might be worth checking that out if you cant find them otherwise
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Old 09-10-2008, 07:52 PM   #278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
I picked up a set of the KM racing carbon backed pads on the weekend. They come with a pair of springs that sit between the pads to help them disengage quicker - looks pretty trick. I'll post how they go for stopping power once I've given them a run
Please do. I am still thinking if it is worth the money to get them or just go with the APPs

Thanks
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Old 09-10-2008, 09:29 PM   #279
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3racing I think has ti screws from the asian places that do the job nicely and leave you with some extras that you can buy in packs of 8 or 10 cheap.

If you're looking to lose weight, the best is the battery by running lipo but then you have to get a brass battery plate (40+g) and use a voltage regulator

the next best is the half height ko 2413 servos, 10 grams savings each over 2367's. this counters the regulator quite a bit

front spool, ybslow makes an aluminum one thats even lighter than the kyosho one and doesn't seem to wear too much. capricorn makes a brake pulley that uses a plastic gear instead of the bulky aluminum one.

skip the titanium main shafts though and go with hollow steel, odd things will happen to your car.

last but not least, Twister Pro-light tires are good for almost 20 grams for all 4 compared to most of the wheels people run.
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Old 09-10-2008, 10:18 PM   #280
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To expand on what Brian said, you can shed some weight by going with a titanium 2sp shaft for the RRR. If you go to a RRR shaft, you will use a plastic pulley instead of the aluminum one. You will also need a few extra 2x11 pins and a brake disc made for the RRR. The plastic pulley and the plastic cam that drives the brake disc came with my RRR EVO WC car, all that was needed is the pins and the shaft.

3 racing makes a titanium 2 speed shaft for the RRR and YBSLOW will have titanium and or solid aluminum 2 speed shafts soon. The cool thing about the YBSLOW shaft(s) is that they will have the pin holes and flat spots so you can use the plastic or aluminum rear pulley.

For Titanium screws I ordered packs from 3 racing. They are pretty well priced and then you can get some extras for when the inevitable happens and you strip one.
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Old 09-11-2008, 12:27 AM   #281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Bosley View Post
skip the titanium main shafts though and go with hollow steel, odd things will happen to your car.
Care to explain Brian

Thanks.
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Old 09-11-2008, 01:42 AM   #282
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Originally Posted by Novarossi View Post
Care to explain Brian

Thanks.
I have been running the same titanium 2 sp shaft for over a year now.
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Old 09-11-2008, 03:58 AM   #283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Bosley View Post
last but not least, Twister Pro-light tires are good for almost 20 grams for all 4 compared to most of the wheels people run.
ATS also make lightweight rims, christiani something-or-other pro model. Good for people out here in Oz where twisters have only just landed

edit: I have heard of them cracking in crashes though, so if your track has boards steer clear of lightweight rims
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Old 09-11-2008, 09:35 AM   #284
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In my experience, the titanium main shaft either binds itself to the bearings, the 2 speed or just doesn't run completely true. Maybe the one I tried wasn't as good as Scott's..

With the capricorn pulley ($50usd I think) you can use the evo2's shaft and not have to swap out all your brake gear, they designed it for the new style shaft with the old pulley and uses the new brake discs (with the two pins, not the squarish oval type shape)


ATS does have lightweight wheels, but not Christiani anymore. I believe they are distributed solely through Twister and IDM (different wheel design, idmtuned.com for info)

The Kyosho style lightweight (barely available) are lighter than the serpent style light weight and both are available in 0/0mm with the kyosho being available in 2mm rears.

Like Craig said though, don't hit anything with these. You can lightly nick some flaps but anything head on will warp or crack these wheels. Basically they took the hardening agent out of the wheel which makes them opaque and super light but also softer which is a tuning aid by itself. Daniele ran the Kyosho style hard wheels for the main at the Worlds if that helps your decision at all and from the pictures I saw he was running the 2mm rear wheel.
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Old 09-11-2008, 05:10 PM   #285
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Our local stores are a bit behind the times and still have the Christiani's, I'd imagine now that there is a proper distributor for twister that the new lightweights will come out, cant wait because it's about 10 bucks cheaper for a set of twister than ATS at the moment

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Bosley View Post
With the capricorn pulley ($50usd I think) you can use the evo2's shaft and not have to swap out all your brake gear, they designed it for the new style shaft with the old pulley and uses the new brake discs (with the two pins, not the squarish oval type shape)
Capricorn have some really trick stuff, is there anywhere to buy it other than their site, preferably in USD? by the time I convert our dollar to euros, pay the extortionate prices, and then consider shipping I'm up for a couple hundred bucks on even small items

edit: murnan has some of their gear
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