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Old 07-11-2012, 08:27 AM   #2686
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Why do you miss yours?Still have mine.
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:40 AM   #2687
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Why do you miss yours?Still have mine.
i no longer have it....parted with it few years back. just sharing how i miss and love the car back then and still do, eventhough with newer models emerging still find the car 'attractive' and 'irresistable'
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Old 07-11-2012, 12:34 PM   #2688
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It's still a very good performer for sure,I like the look and it's so reliable.I'm still awaiting some screws for the front R4 diff conversion so can't comment how it performs.
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Old 07-11-2012, 06:39 PM   #2689
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It's still a very good performer for sure,I like the look and it's so reliable.I'm still awaiting some screws for the front R4 diff conversion so can't comment how it performs.
gud luck with the conversion...just wonderin what it would be like if there were to redesign the RRR internal ratio including smaller spur gears and maybe alloy bulkheads
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Old 07-12-2012, 06:16 AM   #2690
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The conversion is already done,almost drop-in upgrade and posted a while back in this thread what is needed.Them Edam Spirit is like the RRR and has aluminum bulkheads as option but heard it makes the car too stiff.
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Old 07-12-2012, 08:04 PM   #2691
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I was told a few Weeks back by a very well know world class racer that has ran just about every top performing sedan, i asked him what sedan was his favorite and he shocked me when he said the RRR was best! he said in his position he doesn't have the luxury of running what he feels is best, but whoever offers him the best deal....also we talked about the worlds that Burch won.......shimo out paced all nt1's, caps, serpents....he qual 2nd with a RRR!!
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Old 07-13-2012, 02:50 PM   #2692
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The RRR has many years of development on it's belt,perfecting every single part to maximum reliability and good performance,the geometry is still spot-on and parts are strong and wear really good,price is nice too.I feel the NT1 has nothing more than tiny diffs and low radioplate,it didn't revolutionize touring cars and even Terauchi's MTX4R finished 2nd for what I could see it wasn't as much upgraded as Burch's NT1.
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Old 07-13-2012, 08:24 PM   #2693
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Interesting conversation guys... My favourite R/C cars that I wish I still had would be the original Kyosho V-One R and then the Team Associated Nitro TC3. It must be a part of getting older that you look back in fond memories.

I do have a Shimo, so will the Edam diffs and Universals fit? Also does the X-ray Nt1 radio fit?
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Old 07-14-2012, 04:40 AM   #2694
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Hey Bundy,not 100% sure but my gut feeling says that Edam parts are compatible with the RRR,as for the radio you meant the radio box?Radio boxes are overrated,I've never used a box and if there's too much dust or the possibility of water then I put the Rx inside a balloon but that's the case with a RRR WCE which has the Rx on top of the T/B servo maybe try doing like Shimo and run the Rx between the Rx pack and tuned pipe and voila,protected and balanced.
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Old 07-15-2012, 04:14 AM   #2695
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Today all parts have arrived including R4 diff cases.
1st:vz403 are the new updated diff cases!RRR oneway pulley fit so doesn't need vz402 pulley set for front diff.
2nd:R4 front diff fits the RRR!it's just a hair too wide that makes installation a bit difficult but a little cursing and voila it's in a new home using RRR eccentrics and bearings using a custom sleeve so it can fit inside RRR's bearings.
3rd:rear diff is slimmer,about a mm each side,no biggie use a shim.

WOOHOOO!!!
Can some one clearly list what parts and part#s are needed to upgrade RRR with R4 diffs (i.e. outer-drives, bearings etc). I've done a search but it's not entirely clear. Also, it still sounds like a custom bearing sleeve is required for the front diff. If so, how do I accomplish this without going to an engineer? Lastly, what diff oils are you running...e.g. I'm running 50K f 5k r...is the general rule to double this for these smaller diffs?

Thanks.
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Old 07-15-2012, 07:26 AM   #2696
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Can some one clearly list what parts and part#s are needed to upgrade RRR with R4 diffs (i.e. outer-drives, bearings etc). I've done a search but it's not entirely clear. Also, it still sounds like a custom bearing sleeve is required for the front diff. If so, how do I accomplish this without going to an engineer? Lastly, what diff oils are you running...e.g. I'm running 50K f 5k r...is the general rule to double this for these smaller diffs?

Thanks.
Parts list:
ORG045S - o-rings for the outdrives
UM610 - diff bevel gear set
UM613 - diff bevel shaft
VZ419 - front diff outdrives
VZ403 - diff case set

I used the same pulley from the RRR one-way and you need M2.5 x 8mm for tightening the case.Every lathe operator should make one of those rings or you can saw a hollow tube 18 OD x 15 ID x 4 width (all measurements in mm) or a 18x10x4 bearing.
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Old 07-15-2012, 11:09 AM   #2697
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Originally Posted by 30Tooth View Post
Parts list:
ORG045S - o-rings for the outdrives
UM610 - diff bevel gear set
UM613 - diff bevel shaft
VZ419 - front diff outdrives
VZ403 - diff case set

I used the same pulley from the RRR one-way and you need M2.5 x 8mm for tightening the case.Every lathe operator should make one of those rings or you can saw a hollow tube 18 OD x 15 ID x 4 width (all measurements in mm) or a 18x10x4 bearing.
Thanks....in terms of diff oils are you essentially doubling or using stock r4 diff oil setup? Also are these the new hardened gears and what performance gains have you experienced.

One last thing...what material is being used for the bearing sleeve...aluminum/plastic? Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-15-2012, 04:22 PM   #2698
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Where I used to run is low traction so 100K should be a starting point.No hardened gears,still the standard ones because when ordered them I only knew about the rear diff exploding and the hard ones were not available.Plastic ones should be ok but aluminum ones are wobble free,should last longer and less chance to warp while you are sawing it.
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Old 07-15-2012, 05:53 PM   #2699
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Where I used to run is low traction so 100K should be a starting point.No hardened gears,still the standard ones because when ordered them I only knew about the rear diff exploding and the hard ones were not available.Plastic ones should be ok but aluminum ones are wobble free,should last longer and less chance to warp while you are sawing it.
Tx.
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Old 07-15-2012, 07:01 PM   #2700
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Tx.
You're welcome,now go spank those NT1's/C01's
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