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Old 10-24-2010, 10:37 AM   #2461
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Originally Posted by DJ_Shakespear View Post
OK, not to be a wise-ass or anything, but I once again prove right in what Ive been saying:
-Lowering the inner hinge location of the rear lower arm = a lower RC in the rear.
-Increasing/Raising the inner hinge location of the front upper arm = a lower RC up front.


Only took 3 posts, 2 for the front, to get that point across the table so to speak, but where did the confusion come from?

Ive searched over the net for the part you're after, and I can't find it. Are you sure the part number is correct? Can you tell us what it is? I can't find it in my book (Evo 2 WCTE) or online.

+ 1000.
my books are saying the same.
lower inner arm position lower rc.
i don't know where they have seen the opposite.
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Old 10-24-2010, 01:12 PM   #2462
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He doesnt have more steering, he knows how to use the breaks. I see that a lot, people think they need more steering when all they need to do is slow down a bit earlier. Slow in, fast out.
+10

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Old 10-24-2010, 01:27 PM   #2463
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hi,

I need this: vzw-54-03, but it is really expensive. Do you know whether I can use this from other kits like Xray, Sepent or Mugen...?
What is VZW-54-03? Could you give the name of the part; or description, and someone might be able to help.

Kindest regards,
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Old 10-24-2010, 01:38 PM   #2464
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hmm the no. is: VZW054-03, its the joint block set from the front and rear swing shaft .
from front swing shaft VZW219 and rear VSW06
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Old 10-24-2010, 03:02 PM   #2465
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from front swing shaft VZW219 and rear VSW06
Mugen or Xray swing shafts are different lenghts, but TM G4RS front shafts will fit. You'll get them form super reliable Peter Lee at http://www.rcmanufactory.com/prod.php?cat=Team%20Magic.

TM parts usually wear better than Kyosho parts in my experience. Change the rear to dogbones if you are concerned about money. Dogbones have less wear. maintenance is undemanding. and they are cheaper. Rear dogbones never pop like fronts do. and are completely free of any kind of trouble. You can also service the driveshafts by replacing the pins.

I wish I could find some outdrives of a different manufacturer that work in Kyoshos, Kyosho outdrives wear too fast.
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Old 10-24-2010, 03:43 PM   #2466
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I wish I could find some outdrives of a different manufacturer that work in Kyoshos, Kyosho outdrives wear too fast.
http://www.capricornrc.com/os_capric...products_id=99

http://www.capricornrc.com/os_capric...roducts_id=100

Capricorn parts quality is second to none, plus it will save you some weight compared to the original pieces.
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Old 10-24-2010, 04:19 PM   #2467
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http://www.capricornrc.com/os_capric...products_id=99

http://www.capricornrc.com/os_capric...roducts_id=100

Capricorn parts quality is second to none, plus it will save you some weight compared to the original pieces.
Thanks for that tip, I'll get on to our local Capricorn dealer today.

Kindest regards,
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Old 10-24-2010, 04:21 PM   #2468
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Cool Chassis tweak

On my evo 2, how often should I replace my chassis Plate? I change it after about two club races and was wondering if that is normal after moderate abuse. Thanks
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Old 10-24-2010, 04:40 PM   #2469
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Originally Posted by Chickentrader View Post
Mugen or Xray swing shafts are different lenghts, but TM G4RS front shafts will fit. You'll get them form super reliable Peter Lee at http://www.rcmanufactory.com/prod.php?cat=Team%20Magic.

TM parts usually wear better than Kyosho parts in my experience. Change the rear to dogbones if you are concerned about money. Dogbones have less wear. maintenance is undemanding. and they are cheaper. Rear dogbones never pop like fronts do. and are completely free of any kind of trouble. You can also service the driveshafts by replacing the pins.

I wish I could find some outdrives of a different manufacturer that work in Kyoshos, Kyosho outdrives wear too fast.
My kyosho dog bones lasted 1 year, I did rotate the small pin holes once if you keep the car clean and grease them you have only small pin hole wear and none on the outdrives or the swing shaft.
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Old 10-24-2010, 04:43 PM   #2470
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On my evo 2, how often should I replace my chassis Plate? I change it after about two club races and was wondering if that is normal after moderate abuse. Thanks
Unless you hit something real hard or roll it into the boards, your chasis should last you a season with no problem.
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Old 10-24-2010, 05:16 PM   #2471
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On my evo 2, how often should I replace my chassis Plate? I change it after about two club races and was wondering if that is normal after moderate abuse. Thanks
2 club races!?!?! Are you mad???
Ive had my chassis plate since the day I bought it, and that was early this year. It should definitely last a season like Speedypeterb said. Only if there is some major damage, I wouldn't replace it at all until it NEEDS to be replaced, but then I would try the K-Factory RRR chassis as it's lighter and has the cool factor
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Old 10-24-2010, 05:21 PM   #2472
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Originally Posted by GREGORY! View Post
+ 1000.
my books are saying the same.
lower inner arm position lower rc.
i don't know where they have seen the opposite.
Hahaha, I don't know what's going on in their heads, I was beginning to think the sky was green and gravity worked some other way! I was starting to feel a little when people kept saying either I was wrong or tried to steer me in the right direction, but thanks for the help anyway, especially I)arkness aka Brad.
BTW Brad, now that I've LOWERED my rear RC, I'm 90% sure my RRR is going to beat you next meet
I just have to up the front diff oil to somewhere close to 200K and all should be well not so much for you!
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Old 10-24-2010, 08:29 PM   #2473
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Originally Posted by SebO View Post
hmm the no. is: VZW054-03, its the joint block set from the front and rear swing shaft .

ive seen this

they say to use the same parts that are on the VZW219 unis
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Old 10-24-2010, 08:45 PM   #2474
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Originally Posted by DJ_Shakespear View Post
Hahaha, I don't know what's going on in their heads, I was beginning to think the sky was green and gravity worked some other way! I was starting to feel a little when people kept saying either I was wrong or tried to steer me in the right direction, but thanks for the help anyway, especially I)arkness aka Brad.
BTW Brad, now that I've LOWERED my rear RC, I'm 90% sure my RRR is going to beat you next meet
I just have to up the front diff oil to somewhere close to 200K and all should be well not so much for you!

lol,

i think you need to go back to a standard body, and then try to learn and feel what the car is doing, this way you can do minor tweeks, rather drastic changes. as your car was very free in comparison to phils and mine.

im hoping mine will be faster too next meeting when i put some new tyres on as i had like 55 front 57 rear by the end of day, engine was reving out on the straight. i really should have changed them, i think i had like 3mm front ride height, lol

got an ins box to try as well, so will see what the difference is

im might change my RC as i went back to kit settings last meeting, seemed ok but wasnt as stable, but i do opt for oversteer rather under..

hope it doesnt rain
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Old 10-25-2010, 03:37 AM   #2475
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Yeah, it was pretty free in the rear, but I felt it was too 'powered on' because the tuning was a little bit off - low end a little too lean making it harder to control the throttle.
I went down to Keilor today to get that sorted, I seem to have it tuned a lot better, much more control, but the clutch was kinda yuck for me. Too much slip it felt like, so I increased the gap by .1 or .2mm.
I should go back to a sedan body, get the feeling back for that (more like get the feeling of it!), but it seems so well with the Lola. Next time soon, Ill go for a few laps in the P56 and see just how different it is to the Lola. Hehehe, the new Lola I got has a lot of scraping at the front when I go off-power, must trim the front end!
Topping out on the straight?? What 2nd gear combo are you running?? Im using the stock 21/56 and still have room for more revs! I was actually thinking of going to 16/60 + 20/56, get less torque applied out the corners but have a quicker transition and be a little quicker in 2nd!
Since changing my RC, I straight away felt more planted then before, but I feel as if my front RC may be a little too low, but before I raise it I want to see how it goes after a little rebuild I did today (front Unis had so much play the wheels practically turned 90 deg to each other! Outdrives were worn, pins were worn and one of the shafts was just mangled!) Luckily I had new ones, and now there is very minimal play between them. Now to increase the front diff, maybe raise the RC, and try driving with the P56 instead of "The Wing" All will be well!!
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