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Old 07-23-2010, 03:42 PM   #2341
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hey with the standard clutch setup with white weights, whats the effect of using the grub screws making it heavier or drilling holes making it lighter?? how does this change engaging??
making the weights heavier with everything else the same will let the engine engage more quickly. sometimes you have to use heavier weights with the crazy springs most of use.
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Old 07-24-2010, 01:31 AM   #2342
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What about the gear ratio difference? How is the tyre wear?
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Old 07-24-2010, 02:43 AM   #2343
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also swap the l/r eccentrics, it makes them slightly tighter
i need to refill the diffs.. i noticed after the run there is hardly oil in there. (also noticed this problem in the xray thread, a few guys filled it up 80% and they need to refill it again. one guy recommended refill get a drill and spin the diffs, and refill again.. it must be that the oil is not sitting right to the bottom when being filled)

i am using a xray belt, it is 3mm shorter..

also running xray shocks w/ xray springs - they are very smooth!..

my kyosho shocks were blasted for some reason. i rebuilt them (new bladders, shafts, o-rings, pistons) and they still didnt feel normal.

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What about the gear ratio difference? How is the tyre wear?
dont know much difference in wear.. gear ratio is only 0.05 difference. the rear diff is only 1t less.
therefore;
stock: 21/42 = 2.00
carpricorn diff: 21/41 = 1.95

i did notice i had to tighten my 2sp clutch abit.. it wasnt engaging and i couldnt work out why, then released it was shifting to 2nd superquick.
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Old 07-24-2010, 03:12 AM   #2344
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I am playing with the drive ends so oil fills the gears and sits at the
bottom of the case. Then i let it for some time then do the same and let it
sit again. Of course needs some time to do this and when you are at the
track you may dont have this time. This thing gets even worse when using harder oil.
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Old 07-24-2010, 06:10 PM   #2345
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I am playing with the drive ends so oil fills the gears and sits at the
bottom of the case. Then i let it for some time then do the same and let it
sit again. Of course needs some time to do this and when you are at the
track you may dont have this time. This thing gets even worse when using harder oil.
that is the key, you can use the drill method or you can use the sit for 2 hour method. the oil goes behind the gears and 200k weight just doesn't move very quickly.

the xray/capricorn diffs are really bad about the o-rings too, i had to buy an extra pack of like 20 from xray to find a few that were tight enough.

shimo's car is remarkably unmodified from his kit and he is as fast as anybody else at the worlds. i'm going to try and talk to him tomorrow and see if they are doing anything exciting but i didn't see any obvious prototype parts unlike the serpent guys.
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Old 07-25-2010, 08:30 AM   #2346
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Hi guys, what would be like a standard weight oil to run for the shocks and also the rear diff?
Car will be run on ashpalt and it will be my first time racing so i have no idea with regards to setup etc, it probably won't make much difference with my crap driving
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Old 07-25-2010, 11:16 AM   #2347
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Hi guys, what would be like a standard weight oil to run for the shocks and also the rear diff?
Car will be run on ashpalt and it will be my first time racing so i have no idea with regards to setup etc, it probably won't make much difference with my crap driving
the kit setup is always the best place to start. 600 for the shocks and 80k for the front and 30k for the rear should be good too since i can't remember the manual off the top of my head
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Old 07-29-2010, 12:10 AM   #2348
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what do you guys think about this part?

http://www.km-rc.com/oscommerce/cata...b95936815762a2

they also seem to use it on there km hk-1 car
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Old 07-29-2010, 12:22 AM   #2349
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Originally Posted by Brian Bosley View Post
the kit setup is always the best place to start. 600 for the shocks and 80k for the front and 30k for the rear should be good too since i can't remember the manual off the top of my head
i looked it up its 400 for the shock oil if anyone else is interested.

thanks brian
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Old 07-29-2010, 05:48 PM   #2350
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Old 08-02-2010, 01:27 AM   #2351
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Hi guys. I recently got a used v-one rr and i wanted to know, do rrr parts and hopups fit the rr and is there a rrr conversion for the rr? Thanks
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Old 08-02-2010, 07:57 AM   #2352
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Hi guys. I recently got a used v-one rr and i wanted to know, do rrr parts and hopups fit the rr and is there a rrr conversion for the rr? Thanks
yeah for the most part they have not changed the bulkheads in a very long time which means the chassis and top decks from all of the cars are interchangeable. The arms and general geometry haven't really changed much either.

It depends on what you want to use the car for, but there isn't really a conversion kit. The most important parts for racing are the new evo2 chassis and the top deck (which may soon be revised after the worlds) to get more steering. The rest of the updates are not really that important but the new shimo shocks feel good, but honestly I would drive the car you have and buy a shimo car (the shocks alone are $100, chassis is $80+) if you want something more in the future.
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Old 08-02-2010, 08:39 AM   #2353
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Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN View Post
what do you guys think about this part?

http://www.km-rc.com/oscommerce/cata...b95936815762a2

they also seem to use it on there km hk-1 car
i had some of these made back when the NT1 came out, it didn't really give me any better roll centers or free up anything enough to bother with.
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Old 08-02-2010, 10:27 AM   #2354
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Default How to read setting Data Sheet

Can someone help me understand what does 0G or 1G means when setting camber angle.

I see in setting sheet under Camber Angle 0G/1G options and on the side the different angles, which by the way is clear, but how do you apply the 0G or
1G option, and what does it mean.

AFM
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Old 08-02-2010, 03:40 PM   #2355
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Can someone help me understand what does 0G or 1G means when setting camber angle.

I see in setting sheet under Camber Angle 0G/1G options and on the side the different angles, which by the way is clear, but how do you apply the 0G or
1G option, and what does it mean.

AFM
Good question, I have never seen that before yet it goes back to very early setup sheets. Camber is only adjusted one way on the car and the G has no meaning to me for camber..
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