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Old 07-15-2010, 08:33 AM   #2326
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Will go for it than even though i fear a bit that if the engine has more power due to a lighter driver train the rear tyres will suffer a bit more wear.

Below is a URL of one of my races that my pit crew took.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kajw5...eature=related

i am the first car with the orange and blue stripe body shell. The track was origanlly designed for electric.

Surface is bumby through out, as the asphalt is made out of quite big pieces of rocks a bit slippery and suffer from understeer. Infact we run 37 fronts and 40 rear.

I really would like to know how would you setup the car on such a thight track. Light diffs really helped going around the tight corners but make the car unpredictable in certain corners.

Thanks Guys
I can't see the fine details of that surface but I am certainly jealous of your track. I run 33 fronts and 37-40 rears at a lot of tracks that I go to so you are not far off, the rrr just needs steering.

I don't consider your track tight :P your car looked good and the only few things I would really touch would possibly be the clutch, it didn't seem to hit out of the corners like it could but maybe you don't have the traction to use any more and like you said the rocks make it fairly inconsistent. The other car kept getting you on the sweeper, I think that is just driving more than anything. You could sacrifice some slow speed steering and go for more caster so you can be more on throttle in the large turns. Ackerman comes to mind as well but I don't know how the kyosho pieces work so try the one that puts the ball studs toward the back of the car or wider. (10 maybe?)

One last thing is the body, we finally broke away from using the stratus exclusively and now we have 50 bodies to try at every track. the xceed isf and cruzer come to mind for good steering with high speed stability.
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Old 07-15-2010, 11:35 AM   #2327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
Will go for it than even though i fear a bit that if the engine has more power due to a lighter driver train the rear tyres will suffer a bit more wear.

Below is a URL of one of my races that my pit crew took.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kajw5...eature=related

i am the first car with the orange and blue stripe body shell. The track was origanlly designed for electric.

Surface is bumby through out, as the asphalt is made out of quite big pieces of rocks a bit slippery and suffer from understeer. Infact we run 37 fronts and 40 rear.

I really would like to know how would you setup the car on such a thight track. Light diffs really helped going around the tight corners but make the car unpredictable in certain corners.

Thanks Guys
You defintly had more motor than anyone out there. What where you diff weights?
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Old 07-15-2010, 04:38 PM   #2328
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Originally Posted by Brian Bosley View Post
I can't see the fine details of that surface but I am certainly jealous of your track. I run 33 fronts and 37-40 rears at a lot of tracks that I go to so you are not far off, the rrr just needs steering.

I don't consider your track tight :P your car looked good and the only few things I would really touch would possibly be the clutch, it didn't seem to hit out of the corners like it could but maybe you don't have the traction to use any more and like you said the rocks make it fairly inconsistent. The other car kept getting you on the sweeper, I think that is just driving more than anything. You could sacrifice some slow speed steering and go for more caster so you can be more on throttle in the large turns. Ackerman comes to mind as well but I don't know how the kyosho pieces work so try the one that puts the ball studs toward the back of the car or wider. (10 maybe?)

One last thing is the body, we finally broke away from using the stratus exclusively and now we have 50 bodies to try at every track. the xceed isf and cruzer come to mind for good steering with high speed stability.
Clutch has to be set really smooth in our track as the rear tyres get beaten very badly. Re body at the moment i am using the Xceed Audi and found it a lot better than the Stratus. Will give the bodys you said a try.

Re going softer in the front shall i try 35 front with 40 rear, what i am afraid of having oversteer than.

In that track i tried a new diff setup and went for 20,000 front with 7,000 rear and i really like it but car was a bit unstable at high speed cornering.

Regarding the other car on the sweeper yes true but only because i didn't want to give a hard time to the tyres and my lap times where better than his so i knew i would have him in the technical area. Our races are 15min and due to the type of terrain we end up driving almost the rears on the plastic rims in the last couple of seconds.
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Old 07-15-2010, 04:41 PM   #2329
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Can someone be so kind and tell me what parts nare need to replace the rear CVDs with dogbones.

Capricorn diff mod here we come (i guess)
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Old 07-16-2010, 08:18 AM   #2330
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Can someone be so kind and tell me what parts nare need to replace the rear CVDs with dogbones.

Capricorn diff mod here we come (i guess)
vs023 for the bone (from fw05)
vz013 for the axle

you can run rear cvd's, I don't think the capricorn diff changed my car much but I already had bones.
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Old 07-19-2010, 01:28 AM   #2331
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is it better to buy the shimo edition than evo 2?
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Old 07-19-2010, 02:19 AM   #2332
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Originally Posted by thefuzzclub View Post
is it better to buy the shimo edition than evo 2?
The Shimo is just another RRR with all hop-ups (front diff etc.) and new design (better in my view) shockies. You can download the manuals from the Kyosho America website http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/manuals.php?category_id=1, and compare them.

I'd go for the Shimo, as I would spend money buying all the extras anyway. We are super happy with our Shimo; best car I've ever had so far.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
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Old 07-19-2010, 03:15 AM   #2333
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is it better to buy the shimo edition than evo 2?
better shocks, better clutch, front diff, aluminium mid-shaft mount, and heaps more

upgrades are def worth it.

anyway; i tested my car on the weekend.. and it handled amazing. accelleration was good, the car felt so light and easy to throw around and thrash out of corners.

i wouldnt mind heavier front diffs though. maybe try 150 or 200k next. at the moment i have 100k
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Old 07-19-2010, 10:48 PM   #2334
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thanks for your reply. i can see shimo is worth buying.

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Originally Posted by Chickentrader View Post
The Shimo is just another RRR with all hop-ups (front diff etc.) and new design (better in my view) shockies. You can download the manuals from the Kyosho America website http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/manuals.php?category_id=1, and compare them.

I'd go for the Shimo, as I would spend money buying all the extras anyway. We are super happy with our Shimo; best car I've ever had so far.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
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Old 07-19-2010, 10:50 PM   #2335
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with all the upgrades and its price...i would go for the shimo. thanks Lil_JaSon

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Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN View Post
better shocks, better clutch, front diff, aluminium mid-shaft mount, and heaps more

upgrades are def worth it.

anyway; i tested my car on the weekend.. and it handled amazing. accelleration was good, the car felt so light and easy to throw around and thrash out of corners.

i wouldnt mind heavier front diffs though. maybe try 150 or 200k next. at the moment i have 100k
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Old 07-20-2010, 04:58 AM   #2336
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Is this track located in Malta? Where are you, and what kind of surface is that. The track looks sweet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
Will go for it than even though i fear a bit that if the engine has more power due to a lighter driver train the rear tyres will suffer a bit more wear.

Below is a URL of one of my races that my pit crew took.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kajw5...eature=related

i am the first car with the orange and blue stripe body shell. The track was origanlly designed for electric.

Surface is bumby through out, as the asphalt is made out of quite big pieces of rocks a bit slippery and suffer from understeer. Infact we run 37 fronts and 40 rear.

I really would like to know how would you setup the car on such a thight track. Light diffs really helped going around the tight corners but make the car unpredictable in certain corners.

Thanks Guys
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Old 07-22-2010, 07:32 PM   #2337
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Pictures of the capricorn diffs, tested. 40g off the drivetrain if the plastic gears hold up. I will let you guys know after the worlds :P

So far the best diff combo is 100k rear and 200k front, I am thinking about 120 or 150k rear though.
Attached Thumbnails
Kyosho V-ONE RRR EVO 2-frontdiff.jpg   Kyosho V-ONE RRR EVO 2-reardiff.jpg  
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Old 07-22-2010, 10:58 PM   #2338
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Pictures of the capricorn diffs, tested. 40g off the drivetrain if the plastic gears hold up. I will let you guys know after the worlds :P

So far the best diff combo is 100k rear and 200k front, I am thinking about 120 or 150k rear though.


very nice.. i took it out for a session, and it ran awesome.

i run a fairy low traction tight track, so i have 60k rear and 100k front.. im gunna try 150 or 200k front though

how loose is your rear belt? i drilled new holes so the eccentrics can sit at its absolute tightest settings, and it is still fairy loose.. (althought havent noticed any gear slip)

i might try using a mugen belt or even a xray (which is tighter).
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Old 07-23-2010, 05:16 AM   #2339
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hey with the standard clutch setup with white weights, whats the effect of using the grub screws making it heavier or drilling holes making it lighter?? how does this change engaging??
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Old 07-23-2010, 03:41 PM   #2340
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Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN View Post
very nice.. i took it out for a session, and it ran awesome.

i run a fairy low traction tight track, so i have 60k rear and 100k front.. im gunna try 150 or 200k front though

how loose is your rear belt? i drilled new holes so the eccentrics can sit at its absolute tightest settings, and it is still fairy loose.. (althought havent noticed any gear slip)

i might try using a mugen belt or even a xray (which is tighter).
also swap the l/r eccentrics, it makes them slightly tighter
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