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Old 07-06-2010, 01:27 PM   #2296
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wasnt happy with how the rear was spinning..

so i took everything apart and did some more dremeling..

now its smooth cant feel no friction and it will roll down anything.... all you can hear is just the bearings.

smoothest iv ever had my car actually.

also, 100k at the front, felt lighter than 50k which i had in the stock diff..

60k rear, felt around the same as the 20k i had.
The smaller the diff, the heavier the diff fluid must be to achieve the same stiffness. For example an NT1 front diff needs at least 300 000 and possibly heavier, to feel the same as a RRR diff with 100 000 weight fluid.
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Old 07-06-2010, 04:04 PM   #2297
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The smaller the diff, the heavier the diff fluid must be to achieve the same stiffness. For example an NT1 front diff needs at least 300 000 and possibly heavier, to feel the same as a RRR diff with 100 000 weight fluid.
What about when you compare it to a mugen diff?
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Old 07-06-2010, 06:18 PM   #2298
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What about when you compare it to a mugen diff?
Mugen (MTX4) front diffs are about the same size as the Kyosho diffs and require similar fluids. I could be wrong, but I think the bevel gears are the same and are interchangeable.

Kindest regards,
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Old 07-09-2010, 08:49 AM   #2299
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testing the car out tommorro.

will be running underweight though, 1460g -without shell
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Old 07-10-2010, 09:41 AM   #2300
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Cool lowered deck

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testing the car out tommorro.

will be running underweight though, 1460g -without shell
since you lowered the deck how are you mounting your rx pack?
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Old 07-10-2010, 12:05 PM   #2301
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since you lowered the deck how are you mounting your rx pack?
He is using a Life pack (or you can use a lipo). With the lithium batteries, there is quite a bit of space between the tank and the battery.
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Old 07-11-2010, 07:54 AM   #2302
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i use LiFe because of the better discharge curve than nimh. i get better performance out of my servos. they dont get sluggish as the battery drains.

i went with life instead of lipo because i dont need a regulator (less to worry about).. plus my car is extremly light as it is so saving 5-10g wont worry me (especially from centre of the car).

anyway, you should be able to lower the tank by atleast 2mm with the RRR. im running the xray tank. the xray tank is a slimmer/longer design, so it allowed me to lower it by 5mm
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Old 07-11-2010, 08:46 AM   #2303
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Anyone has a 2nd hand in good condition Kyosho TCD diff for sale as i am interested to try it out.

Also some good advise re Roll Center, when and why do you start playing with roll center?
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Old 07-11-2010, 02:14 PM   #2304
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Anyone has a 2nd hand in good condition Kyosho TCD diff for sale as i am interested to try it out.

Also some good advise re Roll Center, when and why do you start playing with roll center?
Go to http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...me=XRAY%20NT1R and download "X-RAY NT1 Set-up Book (pdf) - English', and "X-RAY NT1 Quick Reference Table". The Set-up Book is the most complete set-up manual you will ever find for any car, a must for most RC fans. Page 29 in the set-up book will explain roll-centers. Page 2 in the Quick Reference Table lists all setup options, and should be printed out and kept as a quick reference when looking for solutions.

Ps. Some manuals do not recommend changing front roll-center settings, but the rear roll-center is listed as the second step to take to get better rear grip (reduce oversteer) in the X-Ray quick reference table, and it works for us.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
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Last edited by Chickentrader; 07-11-2010 at 04:59 PM.
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Old 07-11-2010, 04:26 PM   #2305
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Anyone has a 2nd hand in good condition Kyosho TCD diff for sale as i am interested to try it out.

Also some good advise re Roll Center, when and why do you start playing with roll center?
http://www.rcplanet.com/Kyosho_Diffe.../kyoifw117.htm
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Old 07-12-2010, 05:55 AM   #2306
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Anyone has a 2nd hand in good condition Kyosho TCD diff for sale as i am interested to try it out.

Also some good advise re Roll Center, when and why do you start playing with roll center?
theres a guy at my track who runs tcd. looks intresting..

didnt have time to test it out, still had a few things to do on the car and the weather was crap.. but the car is ready for this weekend.
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Old 07-12-2010, 04:37 PM   #2307
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For those that have anything to compare with, the # is finally in. My kyosho's entire drivetrain is 178g. about 20g lighter than Xray's 2008 edition with all of the lightweight parts available at the time (the last one I had Dec of 08)

This includes the spur gears (55 and 60), all shafts, all shims, all pins, all pulleys (no belts), the diffs, the brake disc, the axles, the cvd's/bones, hexes (no wheel nuts) so basically everything that spins that isn't a clutch, tire or bearing.

The capricorn diff gears seem to hold up, I will wait for the insane traction of the worlds to find out though.

The car feels like it has more drag because rolling it doesn't go as far, but the acceleration is considerably better. I had to run 80k/200k diff oils as a starting point. Any less than 50k in the rear of the capricorn is basically running 10k in the kyosho.
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Old 07-12-2010, 07:17 PM   #2308
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you running front diff aswell? are you running the rear cvds at the front?

iv found that you need to x it by atleast 3 to get the same consistancy as the kyosho diff.

178g is that with stock or titanium main/mid shaft?

my drivechain consist of
-capricorn diff
-ybslow titanium main & mid shaft (~50% lighter)
-titanium 2sp bearing holder (saved 4g)
-2sp spur housing have been dremeled and cut out (saved 2g)
-capricorn brake hub (uses plastic pulley & the newer brake disc)
-dogbones in rear (dont know if these are lighter, but they help free up the roll)
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Old 07-13-2010, 08:03 AM   #2309
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Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN View Post
you running front diff aswell? are you running the rear cvds at the front?

iv found that you need to x it by atleast 3 to get the same consistancy as the kyosho diff.

178g is that with stock or titanium main/mid shaft?

my drivechain consist of
-capricorn diff
-ybslow titanium main & mid shaft (~50% lighter)
-titanium 2sp bearing holder (saved 4g)
-2sp spur housing have been dremeled and cut out (saved 2g)
-capricorn brake hub (uses plastic pulley & the newer brake disc)
-dogbones in rear (dont know if these are lighter, but they help free up the roll)
that is with a front capricorn diff, I already ran the silver cvds which are longer than usual for a spool. my front diff is the same width as my ybslow spool was.

stock hollow shafts, I don't run titanium and I know everyone else does but I have had bad luck with them. They rotate, but they are on the very inside of the rotational mass so they are less important than say a plastic vs aluminum pulley or the diffs themselves or the tires. Contact is making a special run of lightweight wheels for the worlds drivers, that alone is going to put me 20g of large rotational mass off the overall drivetrain.
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Old 07-13-2010, 10:14 AM   #2310
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For those that have anything to compare with, the # is finally in. My kyosho's entire drivetrain is 178g. about 20g lighter than Xray's 2008 edition with all of the lightweight parts available at the time (the last one I had Dec of 08)

This includes the spur gears (55 and 60), all shafts, all shims, all pins, all pulleys (no belts), the diffs, the brake disc, the axles, the cvd's/bones, hexes (no wheel nuts) so basically everything that spins that isn't a clutch, tire or bearing.

The capricorn diff gears seem to hold up, I will wait for the insane traction of the worlds to find out though.

The car feels like it has more drag because rolling it doesn't go as far, but the acceleration is considerably better. I had to run 80k/200k diff oils as a starting point. Any less than 50k in the rear of the capricorn is basically running 10k in the kyosho.
What do you mean exactly by DRAG, off throttle the car looses to much speed or at top speed?
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