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Old 06-18-2010, 12:22 PM   #2221
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i thought that this had something to do with the level of compression the shock work.to explain if u have built the shock with 75% rebound the a short rod and will be that which work in the the area that go from α under pressured or neutral condition to a pressured oil condition.
from the other side,when you have build a shock with 30-40% rebound then a medium rod will be the "right" one.
i don't know if you can understand my english.
Your english reads well enough, just in my opinion I don't believe the car handles any different other than the shocks seem to last longer and be more consistent with the piston in the middle of the oil. I don't really adjust rebound much, I use almost dead shocks and rely purely on the viscosity of the oil to control the spring.

You are often at the bottom of the shocks travel (depending on droop and shock length) in a corner on the inside wheels, more often then you are at the top of the shocks travel since the springs carry the car after the load has been transferred in a corner. Only a bump would change this.
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Old 06-18-2010, 12:32 PM   #2222
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Your english reads well enough, just in my opinion I don't believe the car handles any different other than the shocks seem to last longer and be more consistent with the piston in the middle of the oil. I don't really adjust rebound much, I use almost dead shocks and rely purely on the viscosity of the oil to control the spring.

You are often at the bottom of the shocks travel (depending on droop and shock length) in a corner on the inside wheels, more often then you are at the top of the shocks travel since the springs carry the car after the load has been transferred in a corner. Only a bump would change this.
nice Brian!
one more question,which model shock are u using?the rrr,evo or shimo?and how u compare them?i use the old rrr ones.(there is any thing that can do to improve them?the one bushing conversion set for the seals from capricorn maybe?i have notice that they have a little slop in the piston,a smaller diameter that the shock body with result a move right-left movement when the suspension is working,especial when i use the shocks in laydown location.
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Old 06-18-2010, 01:20 PM   #2223
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nice Brian!
one more question,which model shock are u using?the rrr,evo or shimo?and how u compare them?i use the old rrr ones.(there is any thing that can do to improve them?the one bushing conversion set for the seals from capricorn maybe?i have notice that they have a little slop in the piston,a smaller diameter that the shock body with result a move right-left movement when the suspension is working,especial when i use the shocks in laydown location.
Unfortunately I can't really compare them, I am using the shimo shocks but my evo shocks were so old that even new pistons required that I used +50wt oil (which isn't the same as changing piston holes)

Due to our lack of piston choices (which changes the initial speed of the pistons movement) a set of older shock bodies would have some blowby on the sides of the piston changing a 1.1mm hole to 1.5mm or more (in feel)

If you can get some cheap shock bodies, start there with some new pistons otherwise the Shimo shocks are very nice and the coating will last longer than the bare aluminum from the past.
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Old 06-18-2010, 01:40 PM   #2224
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because i don't have them near me at this moment,are 13mm all of them?
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Old 06-18-2010, 03:34 PM   #2225
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because i don't have them near me at this moment,are 13mm all of them?
I believe so, the evo shocks are just from the evolva. all of the pistons fit the rrr/evo/shimo shocks
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Old 06-18-2010, 04:01 PM   #2226
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thank u Brian!
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Old 06-18-2010, 06:53 PM   #2227
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what do you guys mean by difference length rods?

also if your planning on upgrading your old shocks to evo/evo2

you will need
-shock bodies (the outer diameter of the new one if thinner and is also longer... inner diameter is the same, therefore you can use the same internals)
-shock collars (as i said, it is thinner)
-plastic shock cups. (that sit at the bottom of the shaft to hold the spring in)
-and obviously new springs.

for this price, you might aswell buy the shimo shocks for a lil bit more. then you will get the velvet coated shock bodies, which they think is alot smoother, titanium coated shock shafts, and new o-rings, end cups.. etc

another alternative, you can upgrade your existing shocks
-buy the new springs
-reverse the shock collar (as one end has the wide groove for the shocks to fit in, as the new springs are not as big in diameter they wont fit, so you want to use the reverse side)
-and shock cups (old ones are again too big in diameter)..

you can also change the pistons they are only a few dollars.. the old piston holes are smaller. i think front is 1x 1.3piston, rear is 1.1. while the newer one runs 2x 1.2 fron and rear... but i have also seen some drive using the 1 piston at front etc.

i run the OLD rrr shocks at the front, and im waiting for places to get the shimo back in, so i can run shimo shocks in the rear only.. everyone is out of stock at the moment for shimo shocks.
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Old 06-18-2010, 07:12 PM   #2228
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when u will assemble the shimo shocks.the rear ones use the medium rod ends in length (if i am not wrong).

now about the replace of the shocks,since i already have the coating rods,and they whole shocks are in very good condition,the only think that i need to do is to find some pistons,maybe from another company to be more accurate in diameter,since these now move inside the body,
i will check the pistons from my serpent.
if i can't do something for that i will sell them an buy the trf shocks.they are cheap and very smooth.
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Old 06-18-2010, 11:11 PM   #2229
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when u will assemble the shimo shocks.the rear ones use the medium rod ends in length (if i am not wrong).

now about the replace of the shocks,since i already have the coating rods,and they whole shocks are in very good condition,the only think that i need to do is to find some pistons,maybe from another company to be more accurate in diameter,since these now move inside the body,
i will check the pistons from my serpent.
if i can't do something for that i will sell them an buy the trf shocks.they are cheap and very smooth.
i understand now, using the longer ends will push the piston up into the middle rather than it being at the bottom.. to be honest, i could NEVER get the same rebound on both shocks..

yeah pretty much the only difference is the shock bodies on the newer shocks.. the outter diameter is smaller..

if you want, you can also upgrade the springs to the blue ones.

i havent had a problem with the kyosho pistons?.. but i have had the 1hole piston crack as the hole is very close to the outside.
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Old 06-19-2010, 01:31 AM   #2230
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mika?which crf do you have?pipe?clutch set up?
Hi, have pretty much the latest model I think, bought it last year. Not sure if there are newer revisions of it.

RB pipe is this http://www.rc-cars24.com/index.php?c...t=E1751-198403

Clutch is the Evo 2 clutch (2D).
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Old 06-19-2010, 02:01 AM   #2231
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i have decided to use the old laydown servo topplate, which i modified so the throttle servo sits in a extra 7mm, and steering servo a extra 2mm.

also shaved the side of the plate by atleast 8mm on the left, and 4mm on right.

fuel tank also lowered 2mm.
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Old 06-19-2010, 03:22 AM   #2232
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Lil Jason post some pics!
nice mika!if it's the picco based i don't think that this pipe work well.if it's the old crf made in japan then this pipe must be very good!
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Old 06-19-2010, 05:10 AM   #2233
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Ok - have also the Orion pipe from last year, might try it out too
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Old 06-21-2010, 02:04 AM   #2234
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Just bought the APP02 brakes set for RRR. Carolinas R/C has a Kyosho blow out sale, this set costs only $20 bucks.. There's also plenty of Kyosho GT stuff available.. I bought some
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Old 06-21-2010, 04:48 AM   #2235
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RRR Xray Edition begins!...

got 1 problem already.. how the hell do i mount a receiver or any type of receiver box, etc.. as you can see, the side which is servo is mount (which is ussually where the receiver box fits).. has no lip, holes or anything to mount a receiver box.... i thinking just double siding tape the receiever to the side of the servo.

Pic of the car with the topplate and brake hub installed -


comparsion of the top plate a big difference!..


comparion of the RRR clutchbell compared to capricorn clutch.
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