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Old 06-17-2010, 10:42 AM   #2206
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Well, that's fine mate.

The problem with "custom tuned" cars is, that if you break something (in racing for instance) it's usually a pain to get spares.. especially if you need to cut & dremel here an there.. I've been on that route..but not anymore.. too painful. It just doesn't pay off for me.. but experimenting with things is cool for sure.

I was on track today with my Evo 2, it's been a while. I run first with the RB V12 and tried with and without the YBSlow battery tray cover. My setup seemed to work much better without it. Too much chassis side roll with the brass tray, without it driving felt really good, though I didn't have a clock this time.

Then, I moved to running-in the new Orion CRF 12, I was really happy the way car felt with it. Powerband felt really smooth on our medium-size track. But it's a bit early to say, tests will show more. There was also difference with the clutch, RB having the WCE evo 3D clutch, Orion having Evo 2 2D clutch.
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Old 06-17-2010, 05:32 PM   #2207
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Well, that's fine mate.

The problem with "custom tuned" cars is, that if you break something (in racing for instance) it's usually a pain to get spares.. especially if you need to cut & dremel here an there.. I've been on that route..but not anymore.. too painful. It just doesn't pay off for me.. but experimenting with things is cool for sure.

I was on track today with my Evo 2, it's been a while. I run first with the RB V12 and tried with and without the YBSlow battery tray cover. My setup seemed to work much better without it. Too much chassis side roll with the brass tray, without it driving felt really good, though I didn't have a clock this time.

Then, I moved to running-in the new Orion CRF 12, I was really happy the way car felt with it. Powerband felt really smooth on our medium-size track. But it's a bit early to say, tests will show more. There was also difference with the clutch, RB having the WCE evo 3D clutch, Orion having Evo 2 2D clutch.
i got the ybslow batt tray aswell.. only reason i got it to get my car to legal weight and replace the weight i took from from using a life..

what difference did you notice between the 3D and the 2D clutch, which did u prefer?
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Old 06-17-2010, 11:58 PM   #2208
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Didn't have a chance to do much testing, only a couple of tanks before the rain. But CRF12 with 2D surely felt good, it seems to be more "round" than the V12 with 3D with my current setup. This requires more testing to give more definite answers. V12 really screams on the main straight there's no question about that though.
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Old 06-18-2010, 02:37 AM   #2209
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Hey guys, i'm sick of the dodge stratus bodies that came with the car because they look shit
does the car take a 190mm or 200mm body?

i'm going to get a impreza STi body to make it look like my 1:1 car but it comes in two different sizes 190mm or 200mm

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Old 06-18-2010, 04:23 AM   #2210
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Didn't have a chance to do much testing, only a couple of tanks before the rain. But CRF12 with 2D surely felt good, it seems to be more "round" than the V12 with 3D with my current setup. This requires more testing to give more definite answers. V12 really screams on the main straight there's no question about that though.
mika?which crf do you have?pipe?clutch set up?
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Old 06-18-2010, 05:58 AM   #2211
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Hey guys, i'm sick of the dodge stratus bodies that came with the car because they look shit
does the car take a 190mm or 200mm body?

i'm going to get a impreza STi body to make it look like my 1:1 car but it comes in two different sizes 190mm or 200mm
200mm..
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Old 06-18-2010, 06:14 AM   #2212
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200mm..
thanks mate,

i've never seen anyone race with these touring car bodies, is that because they don't have the aero like the maz 6's and stratos?
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Old 06-18-2010, 06:37 AM   #2213
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thanks mate,

i've never seen anyone race with these touring car bodies, is that because they don't have the aero like the maz 6's and stratos?
yes, and are not efra/roar or whatever or AARCMCC (association of australian radio controlled model car club) in australia approved..

however some club races still allow them, just not in big events.

4. Body
4.1. Bodies must be a 1:10 scale in character reproduction of touring car (sedan) 2 and 4-door vehicles
that exists or has existed, and raced in an international Touring Car series.
4.2. The body must be IFMAR listed as homogulated by ROAR, EFRA, FEMCA or FAMAR, and must
bear its manufacturer and/or homologation number during the entire competition. This number must
be moulded in at an edge of the front windscreen.
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Old 06-18-2010, 08:12 AM   #2214
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is anybody there that use the medium rear rod ends in the shocks?
there is any diff in the rear traction?
I use the long rod ends and the flat spring seats, it doesn't really do anything other than push the piston up in the oil farther so it works the middle of the oil instead of the very bottom where bubbles and dirt tend to form. it stops the overall downtravel of the car with the rod end hitting the shock body just over full compression as well.
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Old 06-18-2010, 08:18 AM   #2215
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Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN View Post
yes, and are not efra/roar or whatever or AARCMCC (association of australian radio controlled model car club) in australia approved..

however some club races still allow them, just not in big events.

4. Body
4.1. Bodies must be a 1:10 scale in character reproduction of touring car (sedan) 2 and 4-door vehicles
that exists or has existed, and raced in an international Touring Car series.
4.2. The body must be IFMAR listed as homogulated by ROAR, EFRA, FEMCA or FAMAR, and must
bear its manufacturer and/or homologation number during the entire competition. This number must
be moulded in at an edge of the front windscreen.
This is a loose rule at the moment with ROAR as well, the stratus 3.1 never existed that I know of or the dna and probably others that are approved that I can't think of.

If you are looking for other bodies that are race worthy, check out Blitz and Xceed. There is a Chevy Cobalt, Honda Civic, Altis (Toyota Corolla), and Lexus ISF. It's not a 1:1 copy but it does break the stratus tradition and they work better in some conditions. I tried some of the HPI and Tamiya (best scale looks) bodies in the past for entertainment but at the time the stratus was still the best choice for the track.
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Old 06-18-2010, 08:45 AM   #2216
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This is a loose rule at the moment with ROAR as well, the stratus 3.1 never existed that I know of or the dna and probably others that are approved that I can't think of.

If you are looking for other bodies that are race worthy, check out Blitz and Xceed. There is a Chevy Cobalt, Honda Civic, Altis (Toyota Corolla), and Lexus ISF. It's not a 1:1 copy but it does break the stratus tradition and they work better in some conditions. I tried some of the HPI and Tamiya (best scale looks) bodies in the past for entertainment but at the time the stratus was still the best choice for the track.
i have only ever tried the mazda 6 and stratus

i wanna try the xceed next, either the audi a5 or the chevy
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Old 06-18-2010, 09:19 AM   #2217
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The new Protoform P56 is a very good body. Give it a try.
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Old 06-18-2010, 11:50 AM   #2218
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The new Protoform P56 is a very good body. Give it a try.
Where do you get one; I've tried for the last couple of weeks?

Kindest regards,
Lars.
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Old 06-18-2010, 12:02 PM   #2219
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P56 available here: http://kamikazercracing.com/proddetail.php?prod=1521-30
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Old 06-18-2010, 12:06 PM   #2220
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I use the long rod ends and the flat spring seats, it doesn't really do anything other than push the piston up in the oil farther so it works the middle of the oil instead of the very bottom where bubbles and dirt tend to form. it stops the overall downtravel of the car with the rod end hitting the shock body just over full compression as well.
i thought that this had something to do with the level of compression the shock work.to explain if u have built the shock with 75% rebound the a short rod and will be that which work in the the area that go from α under pressured or neutral condition to a pressured oil condition.
from the other side,when you have build a shock with 30-40% rebound then a medium rod will be the "right" one.
i don't know if you can understand my english.
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