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Old 06-13-2010, 02:59 AM   #2176
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i was referring to the plastic brake pulley, not the 21t pulley.

i might give the 3racing titanium 2sp shoe holder a try.

anyone know how much lighter it weights compare to the stock one? i know the stock one is pretty solid/heavy
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Old 06-13-2010, 12:33 PM   #2177
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hi,

can anybody tell me what will change if I use the 23T pulley with standard belt (384)?
normally I drive 24T pulley with 384 belt.
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Old 06-13-2010, 01:35 PM   #2178
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Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN View Post
i was referring to the plastic brake pulley, not the 21t pulley.

i might give the 3racing titanium 2sp shoe holder a try.

anyone know how much lighter it weights compare to the stock one? i know the stock one is pretty solid/heavy
i can't tell you the exact weight diff because i have it in my car.the only that i can tell you is that it's a notice diff.
i don't have any durability problems so far!it's a good buy i think!

(sry i answered in the wrong post)
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Old 06-13-2010, 02:26 PM   #2179
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hi,

can anybody tell me what will change if I use the 23T pulley with standard belt (384)?
normally I drive 24T pulley with 384 belt.
You are going to change the overdrive ratio front to rear or visa versa. example if at 24 teeth you are getting 1 revolution at the rear wheel and 1 revolution at the front (for ??? number of engine turns) both front and rear are pulling evenly. But when you lower the teeth you are decreasing the revolution to those wheels and they are no long 1 to 1. In essence making the care a little more rear wheel drive or front wheel drive.
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Old 06-13-2010, 05:01 PM   #2180
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Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN View Post
i was referring to the plastic brake pulley, not the 21t pulley.

i might give the 3racing titanium 2sp shoe holder a try.

anyone know how much lighter it weights compare to the stock one? i know the stock one is pretty solid/heavy
If you are referring to the plastic brake hub, it has an even shorter life...the brake disc would wrap around it...that is why Kyosho implemented an aluminum brake hub in the RRR WCTE kit.
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Old 06-13-2010, 06:28 PM   #2181
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If you are referring to the plastic brake hub, it has an even shorter life...the brake disc would wrap around it...that is why Kyosho implemented an aluminum brake hub in the RRR WCTE kit.
i dont know how you chewed through the plastic 21t pulley.. iv been using mine and has no sign of problems.

ill see how long the brake pulley lasts.. then ill go back to the alumnium brake pulley.

the plastic brake hub weighs about 1g, while the aluminium one weighs about 4g. anyone know how much the evo2 brake/pulley weighs.


to bad you cant buy the plastic brake hub by itself... gotta buy the whole diff pack to get that part.
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Old 06-14-2010, 02:18 AM   #2182
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also has anyone tried adding weight to the front of the car/bumper to balance rear/front?
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Old 06-14-2010, 06:44 AM   #2183
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i dont know how you chewed through the plastic 21t pulley.. iv been using mine and has no sign of problems.

ill see how long the brake pulley lasts.. then ill go back to the alumnium brake pulley.

the plastic brake hub weighs about 1g, while the aluminium one weighs about 4g. anyone know how much the evo2 brake/pulley weighs.


to bad you cant buy the plastic brake hub by itself... gotta buy the whole diff pack to get that part.
Actually, the pin would chew the inside of the pulley rather quickly, but it was difficult to notice...only realized it was chewed up once I removed it from the shaft (the teeth never chewed up).

Also, this only started happening once I started using my JP eagle..not too sure whether there's a connection. So, basically, after every heat, the brake hub and 21T pulley were fried. Due to fear of not being able to purchase large quantities of these superseded parts, I started using an aluminum brake hub and pulley.
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Old 06-14-2010, 07:24 AM   #2184
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Default Seeking Rear belt and diff advice

Guys:

The rear end of my car seems to break free at exit of tight turns when I give it gas. I was wondering whether the rear diff fluid thickness has an effect on this?

I currently have light diff fluid in the rear (5,000 weight) mostly due to the fact that I didn't have anything thicker on hand. I'm toying around with the idea of replacing with thicker stuff, say 30,000 as per shimo. Would this have as effect to reduce the rear breaking loose or is this issue related to something else?

Also, any experience out there with rear belts snapping in half? I had one snap in half on me, fairly new belt (it was on it's third 30 min heat). Should I attribute this to fatigue and replace rear belts every second/third heat?

Appreciate any advice
thx
MH
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Old 06-14-2010, 08:43 AM   #2185
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also has anyone tried adding weight to the front of the car/bumper to balance rear/front?
I have and used to do that quite regularly. I would hollow out a small area in the foam and put coins in to it. I don't do that anymore, but did in the past.
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Old 06-14-2010, 05:56 PM   #2186
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I have and used to do that quite regularly. I would hollow out a small area in the foam and put coins in to it. I don't do that anymore, but did in the past.
any reason why you dont do it anymore? i think it would help alot..
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Old 06-14-2010, 08:34 PM   #2187
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stock spool - 25g
diff with titanium bevel shafts - 46g

is anyone running shimo clutchs? how do they compare to the older rrr clutchs? im deciding between shimo and capricorn
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Last edited by LiL_JaSoN; 06-15-2010 at 03:44 AM.
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Old 06-15-2010, 07:54 AM   #2188
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stock spool - 25g
diff with titanium bevel shafts - 46g

is anyone running shimo clutchs? how do they compare to the older rrr clutchs? im deciding between shimo and capricorn
its ok, basically all the 30mm clutches are good right now. you just have to find the right combination for the track. shoe, spring, gap then adjust the weights (on the pin or not, screws in the weights or not)

capricorn would be great except team epic (trinity) barely stocks parts for them. I have been trying to get shoes for 2 months in the usa, you may have better luck since they are closer to you.
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Old 06-15-2010, 09:11 AM   #2189
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its ok, basically all the 30mm clutches are good right now. you just have to find the right combination for the track. shoe, spring, gap then adjust the weights (on the pin or not, screws in the weights or not)

capricorn would be great except team epic (trinity) barely stocks parts for them. I have been trying to get shoes for 2 months in the usa, you may have better luck since they are closer to you.
still $11+$10postage euro to post a shoe over..

even the shimo clutch, there isent any parts availible for it yet (shoes etc)... only the full clutch set...

i wonder if capricorn shoes works on the shimo clutch.
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Old 06-15-2010, 09:51 AM   #2190
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still $11+$10postage euro to post a shoe over..

even the shimo clutch, there isent any parts availible for it yet (shoes etc)... only the full clutch set...

i wonder if capricorn shoes works on the shimo clutch.
what can I say, kyosho isn't really trying to keep up with the market...... kyosho america doesn't even list parts on their shopping site.

i'd get the capricorn and 5 shoes, weights and a few springs all in one order. i have to eat the shipping from hong kong all the time.
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