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Old 06-01-2010, 04:41 AM   #2146
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have you got every light weight part possible?, + titanium screws?
-about 75% of screws of my car is titanium
-titanium turnbuckles, rods, linkage, bevelshaft, pivotballs
-cermaic bearings
-i also run YBSLOW titanium mid/main shaft with plastic pulleys, but the shimo mid belt pulley on the drive shaft for easy mid belt change.
-spektrum micro receiver
-LiFe battery

rest of the parts iv stuck to using stock plastic. eg: plastic mid shaft mount, wire sway bar.. prob can get it another 20-30g lighter.. but it is light enough as it is.

im still running the old rrr with the laydown servo.. still stock bulky 3d clutch, stock shocks (the evo/evo2/shimo shocks are 1000x smoother on other rrr's iv felt).

and still kicking ass and keeping up with other cars.
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Old 06-01-2010, 12:17 PM   #2147
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is there anywhere to buy a titanium screw kit for the car?

i lost some screws when my car went into the fence at whalan a few weeks ago
while the kyosho ones are good, you can get the 3racing kit for the NT1 for about $45 bucks overseas. get two of those and you'll have enough titanium to last you a long time but one kit will cover most of the rrr
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Old 06-02-2010, 01:49 AM   #2148
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while the kyosho ones are good, you can get the 3racing kit for the NT1 for about $45 bucks overseas. get two of those and you'll have enough titanium to last you a long time but one kit will cover most of the rrr
i think they don't make it anymore, i looked on 3racings website, rcmushroom and also rcmart and its all out of stock.
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Old 06-02-2010, 03:56 AM   #2149
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Questions?? First Evo

I guess its kinda off-topic, but i'm new to nitro-on road, but have had about a years experience in electric brushless, and my transmission has broken-down. It refuses to shift and i have tried about 20 times now to adjust it, but then the transmission doesnt find any grip on the shaft at all!!! I have a feeling that my 12TZ (os) isnt powerful enough or doesnt have a high enough rpm... Maybe i have to change the shift timing to something earlier. the question is... DOES ANYBODY KNOW HOW TO SOLVE THIS?!?!
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Old 06-02-2010, 04:03 AM   #2150
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For sure the engine has enough power. Have you cleaned the oneway inside the 1st gear ? For adjustments, screw in the adjustment screws to the bottom and back-out (open) like 3 turns both. If still no shifting, back out another 1/2 turn at the time and try. You can mark the screw heads on different colors (if you don't have paint borrow your girlsfriend's/mother's nail polish) so you know that you're touching both screws equally.
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Old 06-02-2010, 06:17 AM   #2151
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i think they don't make it anymore, i looked on 3racings website, rcmushroom and also rcmart and its all out of stock.
no kidding, I checked all of the sources I know of and its out everywhere. so 3racing is actually a smaller entity of a larger company (that makes the fujin car) so it should be around but maybe they are in a brand change or something and the stock problem is temporary?

skip paying $1 per screw like I remember from some other brands although the ti stuff from lunsford is really nice.
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Old 06-02-2010, 06:39 AM   #2152
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no kidding, I checked all of the sources I know of and its out everywhere. so 3racing is actually a smaller entity of a larger company (that makes the fujin car) so it should be around but maybe they are in a brand change or something and the stock problem is temporary?

skip paying $1 per screw like I remember from some other brands although the ti stuff from lunsford is really nice.
yeah maybe they are changing brands or something.

i just looked up lunsford, they don't have kyosho v rrr screws but i have an rc8b and i looked up the screw kit for that its $255

what do you think of tonyscrews, i don't race competitively so weight isn't really an issue?
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Old 06-02-2010, 07:53 AM   #2153
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yeah maybe they are changing brands or something.

i just looked up lunsford, they don't have kyosho v rrr screws but i have an rc8b and i looked up the screw kit for that its $255

what do you think of tonyscrews, i don't race competitively so weight isn't really an issue?
like I said, the lunsford screws are really nice but I personally own like 8 due to cost mostly for electric motor screws because the heads are so big on the buttons. the 3racing screws are soft, so I usually strip one here and there but at the price you can chunk them.

if you are not trying to hit a specific weight, tonys screws or rc-screwz are high quality steel better than what comes with the RRR in strength and I use that type on highly stressed portions of the car anyway since titanium screws bend if you use them on the shocks and bulkheads.

racers only use titanium for weight, it's not as strong and it isn't as durable as steel (hinge pins, pivot balls or drivetrain shafts for example but these items add up to a lot of weight)
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Old 06-02-2010, 08:10 AM   #2154
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yeah maybe they are changing brands or something.

i just looked up lunsford, they don't have kyosho v rrr screws but i have an rc8b and i looked up the screw kit for that its $255

what do you think of tonyscrews, i don't race competitively so weight isn't really an issue?
a majority of your car is;
3x10 flathead
and 3x8 & 3x12 flathead.

you should be able to replace the majority (70-80%) of your car (whole of bottom chassis & top plate, and few other places around the bulkhead) with these 3 sizes.

and leave the rest stock..

the other sizes are
3x18 - for steering servo (4 screws)
3x15 - for throttle servo ( 4 screws)
^ what you can do here is buy 1 pack of 3x18, and file it down to 3x15.. saves you from buying 2 sizes as you only need 4 screws.

few places use 3x10 & 3x12 buttonhead screws (around shock towers)..

but if i was you, id get 2 packets 3x10 (most popular), and 1 packet of 3x8 & 3x12 flathead... will cost u $20 or less. and will cover 70-80% of car.
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Old 06-02-2010, 03:58 PM   #2155
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thanks guys, great suggestions, i'll have alook into it and get me some screws before the aussie dollar tanks further
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Old 06-04-2010, 02:23 AM   #2156
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hi,

has anybody tested the APP disc pads? How are they?
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Old 06-04-2010, 02:45 AM   #2157
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hi,

has anybody tested the APP disc pads? How are they?
We run Kyosho App pads (slightly modified to fit) in our MTX4s; and they are simply awesome. No noticeable fading in a 40 minutes final on track that is tight and hard on brakes. We use Acre pads in our TM RS08 and in our Shimo and they seem just as good; but have not yet been tested on track that is hard on brakes. I like the look of the Acre pads; they should last for a long time judging by their thickness.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
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Old 06-04-2010, 11:25 AM   #2158
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hi,

has anybody tested the APP disc pads? How are they?
I have used the APP pads for a few years now and they work very well.
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Old 06-07-2010, 07:40 PM   #2159
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Guys:

Can the latest steel ringed 2nd spur gear (vz114-55C) be used with old clutch shoe (FM360)?

As you know, the older version 2nd spur gear (vz114-55B) is getting harder to buy since it has been replaced with the new steel ringed versions (C). I bought a ton of them, but just realized that I am currently using the old clutch shoe (FM360) and have many spares. I'm told the material differs from the new clutch shoe (FM615).

I will order for the new clutch shoe if I have to, just wondering whether anybody has tried this combo.

Thanks.
MH
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Old 06-07-2010, 08:37 PM   #2160
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Guys:

Can the latest steel ringed 2nd spur gear (vz114-55C) be used with old clutch shoe (FM360)?

As you know, the older version 2nd spur gear (vz114-55B) is getting harder to buy since it has been replaced with the new steel ringed versions (C). I bought a ton of them, but just realized that I am currently using the old clutch shoe (FM360) and have many spares. I'm told the material differs from the new clutch shoe (FM615).

I will order for the new clutch shoe if I have to, just wondering whether anybody has tried this combo.

Thanks.
MH
still works.

i am still running the old 2sp clutch shoes and clutch shoe holder.
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