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Old 05-12-2010, 11:29 PM   #2071
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i dremeled the bottom of the shock ball end.
thanks
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Old 05-13-2010, 08:57 PM   #2072
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Default basic setup

hi guys...need some comments & feedback

this is for a parking lot race .. the track will only be setup one day before race day. and i do not have time to test it.. so i'm just assuming the conditions that i will face....the traction maybe low to medium . and more technical layout i guess.

so here's my setup that i propose.
-shocks fr 50wt with med spring, position mid hole
-shocks rear 45wt with med spring, pos 2nd from bottom
-fr diff 30k
-rear diff 20k
-droop fr 0 , rear 4
-caster middle
-anti rol bar fr softest. , rear 1.8 wire.
-track width 199 fr/rear 200
-ride height fr 7, rear 8
-rol centre fr top, rear 2nd from bottom
-cambers fr 1 , rear 3-4
-toe out fr 1, toe in rear 2.5-3
- i will be running tyres dia. 59 fr, 61 rear for heats

tqvm
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Old 05-14-2010, 06:19 AM   #2073
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Originally Posted by rcabj View Post
hi guys...need some comments & feedback

this is for a parking lot race .. the track will only be setup one day before race day. and i do not have time to test it.. so i'm just assuming the conditions that i will face....the traction maybe low to medium . and more technical layout i guess.

so here's my setup that i propose.
-shocks fr 50wt with med spring, position mid hole
-shocks rear 45wt with med spring, pos 2nd from bottom
-fr diff 30k
-rear diff 20k
-droop fr 0 , rear 4
-caster middle
-anti rol bar fr softest. , rear 1.8 wire.
-track width 199 fr/rear 200
-ride height fr 7, rear 8
-rol centre fr top, rear 2nd from bottom
-cambers fr 1 , rear 3-4
-toe out fr 1, toe in rear 2.5-3
- i will be running tyres dia. 59 fr, 61 rear for heats

tqvm
20k rear, 30k front?

id atleast go 50k at the front & 20k at rear... but ill let someone else comment on this.
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Old 05-14-2010, 12:52 PM   #2074
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Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN View Post
20k rear, 30k front?

id atleast go 50k at the front & 20k at rear... but ill let someone else comment on this.
it depends on what type of driver you are and how serious you want to be, that setup looks ok.. i don't use front diffs yet so i can't comment on the oil but it should be drivable on almost anything like that. the rrr has such a huge sweet spot in the setup that makes it usable on almost any surface. tires will be the most important thing you can pick. could be 45's, could be 33's..
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Old 05-14-2010, 01:03 PM   #2075
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcabj View Post
hi guys...need some comments & feedback

this is for a parking lot race .. the track will only be setup one day before race day. and i do not have time to test it.. so i'm just assuming the conditions that i will face....the traction maybe low to medium . and more technical layout i guess.

so here's my setup that i propose.
-shocks fr 50wt with med spring, position mid hole
-shocks rear 45wt with med spring, pos 2nd from bottom
-fr diff 30k
-rear diff 20k
-droop fr 0 , rear 4
-caster middle
-anti rol bar fr softest. , rear 1.8 wire.
-track width 199 fr/rear 200
-ride height fr 7, rear 8
-rol centre fr top, rear 2nd from bottom
-cambers fr 1 , rear 3-4
-toe out fr 1, toe in rear 2.5-3
- i will be running tyres dia. 59 fr, 61 rear for heats

tqvm
Set-up looks pretty good. My local track is similar to that. For more traction if you need it, drop down to 10k in the rear diff with 50k in the front. Also, 5 deg camber, 3.5 toe with -1 droop in front +5 in the rear
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Old 05-16-2010, 03:35 AM   #2076
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hey guys, is there a cheap place to buy the 2.6x8mm screws for the battery plate, the head on my screws are starting to slip.
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Old 05-16-2010, 05:53 AM   #2077
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hey guys, is there a cheap place to buy the 2.6x8mm screws for the battery plate, the head on my screws are starting to slip.
traxxas or kyosho makes 2.6x8. amaine has them.. but shipping might cost u a few dollars.. otherwise ure LHS

it would be good if they made hexheads instead of the screwdriver heads.
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Old 05-16-2010, 08:35 AM   #2078
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Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN View Post
traxxas or kyosho makes 2.6x8. amaine has them.. but shipping might cost u a few dollars.. otherwise ure LHS

it would be good if they made hexheads instead of the screwdriver heads.
I drilled mine all out to 3mm screws mostly to avoid stripping the heads and use hexes. I run the aluminum middle pulley mount as well, you have to put a new angle on your battery tray as well but most of us have a countersink bit right?

kyosho makes so many odd decisions but plenty of other cars come with philips heads too, its annoying.
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Old 05-16-2010, 02:25 PM   #2079
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Originally Posted by Brian Bosley View Post
I drilled mine all out to 3mm screws mostly to avoid stripping the heads and use hexes. I run the aluminum middle pulley mount as well, you have to put a new angle on your battery tray as well but most of us have a countersink bit right?

kyosho makes so many odd decisions but plenty of other cars come with philips heads too, its annoying.
Exactly; Kyosho is not the only RC car manufacturer to carry on with the silly idea of have those little screws to hold the battery plate. I would do just that in any brand of car with smaller bolts; and to change to 3mm as soon as the heads or the threads are starting to wear. We did just that in our Shepherd V8, and we will no doubt end up doing it in our Shimo as well one day.

For anyone that insists to stay with the original; you can get 10mm long Phillips head bolts and to cut to size at: http://www.rcscrewz.com/product_info...36b3131565e8aa.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
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Old 05-16-2010, 06:40 PM   #2080
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thanks for the replies guys, i ended up ordering the bolts from amain as i had to get some other parts for the car as well.
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Old 05-16-2010, 08:24 PM   #2081
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcabj View Post
hi guys...need some comments & feedback

this is for a parking lot race .. the track will only be setup one day before race day. and i do not have time to test it.. so i'm just assuming the conditions that i will face....the traction maybe low to medium . and more technical layout i guess.

so here's my setup that i propose.
-shocks fr 50wt with med spring, position mid hole
-shocks rear 45wt with med spring, pos 2nd from bottom
-fr diff 30k
-rear diff 20k
-droop fr 0 , rear 4
-caster middle
-anti rol bar fr softest. , rear 1.8 wire.
-track width 199 fr/rear 200
-ride height fr 7, rear 8
-rol centre fr top, rear 2nd from bottom
-cambers fr 1 , rear 3-4
-toe out fr 1, toe in rear 2.5-3
- i will be running tyres dia. 59 fr, 61 rear for heats

tqvm
tqvm guys for the feedbacks....most constructive. anyway i did not get the chance to try out any of them due to little time. on race monin i try my setup , and the car was literally jumping all over the track ( the track surface was not tarmac but 'interlocking paver brick tiles). generally i felt everything was satisfactory besides the "jumping'. i figure to get the car more driveable the main objective is to get rid of the 'jumping sickness' . after few test run and almost out of ideas i ended up trying using an ep car shock spring ) luckily a fren brought some just in case. and it was a success the jumping was reduce drasticly. so cut short i TQed on the last heat. but during45min finals i suffered my spur gear wearing out 3 times....i found out after the finals my mounting screw was loose. thought of taking the title but thats racing...u need a lot of luck

to summarize things , the car perform well but there still room to improve few setups here n there on that particular track.

once again thanks guys n happy racing...wil try out those setups that u guys mention .
cheers.
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Old 05-17-2010, 01:16 AM   #2082
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Originally Posted by Brian Bosley View Post
I drilled mine all out to 3mm screws mostly to avoid stripping the heads and use hexes. I run the aluminum middle pulley mount as well, you have to put a new angle on your battery tray as well but most of us have a countersink bit right?

kyosho makes so many odd decisions but plenty of other cars come with philips heads too, its annoying.
i was thinking of doing that.. i dont remove my battery plate that often anyway. and i got a few spares of that size.

might look into it in the future though..

looking into a YBSLOW battery plate as im running a LiFe and a few other lightweight pieces.. my car is around 1650-1670 with shell on. Im running a one way, but installing a diff, so that should push it up abit.. but still gunna be very light, under 1700.

dunno if i should run a 42g so it just weighs above legal or a 58g.

Last edited by LiL_JaSoN; 05-17-2010 at 01:28 AM.
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Old 05-17-2010, 02:37 AM   #2083
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Perfect and sick fast - RRR evo 2 w/ RB V12 "Rody" & pipe



Could run circles around those LRP12 powered RRR's

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Old 05-17-2010, 08:35 AM   #2084
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Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN View Post
i was thinking of doing that.. i dont remove my battery plate that often anyway. and i got a few spares of that size.

might look into it in the future though..

looking into a YBSLOW battery plate as im running a LiFe and a few other lightweight pieces.. my car is around 1650-1670 with shell on. Im running a one way, but installing a diff, so that should push it up abit.. but still gunna be very light, under 1700.

dunno if i should run a 42g so it just weighs above legal or a 58g.
58g tray for sure. i end races on 54mm tires quite often.
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Old 05-17-2010, 11:45 AM   #2085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN View Post
i was thinking of doing that.. i dont remove my battery plate that often anyway. and i got a few spares of that size.

might look into it in the future though..

looking into a YBSLOW battery plate as im running a LiFe and a few other lightweight pieces.. my car is around 1650-1670 with shell on. Im running a one way, but installing a diff, so that should push it up abit.. but still gunna be very light, under 1700.

dunno if i should run a 42g so it just weighs above legal or a 58g.
I would go with the lighter one and use weights if I had to. The reason for that is that is that you might end up having to change to another part that is heavier one day; like a servo for example, or anything else. There are significant differences in many hop up parts.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
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