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Old 03-11-2010, 03:31 PM   #1966
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Post Spur gears not lining up

My 1st and 2nd spur gears on my new shimo edition are not lining up perfectly to match the clutch bell to be inline line with each other. I have the motor mount set as far forward as possible doesn't line up. I shimmed the clutch bell forward to match them as close as possible then my clutch shoe is to far from the bell, causing high rpm's too move the car, even after adjusting the spring. Not good. I am using the max power rr3 .12 .Do I need to put more washers behind the fly wheel?
I have also tried adjusting the rear gear shaft. I don't know whats up, if I did some thing wrong in the build or what. I didn't have this problem in my older rrr's. And does anyone have a proper fix for the slop between the outer hub bearings and the wheel hex/pin. I shimmed it up with cheap traxxas fiber washers. But I know very well I should not be doing that. thanks.

Last edited by kyosho_ken; 03-11-2010 at 03:32 PM. Reason: spelling error
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Old 03-11-2010, 03:44 PM   #1967
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Originally Posted by kyosho_ken View Post
My 1st and 2nd spur gears on my new shimo edition are not lining up perfectly to match the clutch bell to be inline line with each other. I have the motor mount set as far forward as possible doesn't line up. I shimmed the clutch bell forward to match them as close as possible then my clutch shoe is to far from the bell, causing high rpm's too move the car, even after adjusting the spring. Not good. I am using the max power rr3 .12 .Do I need to put more washers behind the fly wheel?
I have also tried adjusting the rear gear shaft. I don't know whats up, if I did some thing wrong in the build or what. I didn't have this problem in my older rrr's. And does anyone have a proper fix for the slop between the outer hub bearings and the wheel hex/pin. I shimmed it up with cheap traxxas fiber washers. But I know very well I should not be doing that. thanks.
Have you checked that the "two speed holder (FM622)" is not too far out? Undo the grub screw, and see if you can move it closer the the bulkhead. The pinions and spurs line up perfectly in our Shimo without packing out the flywheel.

Also; our Shimo doesn't have any play in the hubs, but it was very tight, and the hex nut needed to be pushed in hard; using a tool.

I hope that I have understood your problems correctly, and that this is any help at all to you.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
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Old 03-11-2010, 07:55 PM   #1968
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I agree.. The wheel clamps had to be pushed on with a lot of force or you will have all that play you are experiencing.

Regarding the clutch, you can add a shim or two behind the flywheel, but I have gotten into the habit of using a dremel to open up the engine mount holes in the chassis. This allows me to move the engine just a little bit farther to get the pinions to line up with the spurs a bit better.
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Old 03-12-2010, 04:02 AM   #1969
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Many thanks Lars and Brian re tire truing erlier.
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Last edited by MikaR; 03-12-2010 at 11:59 AM.
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Old 03-14-2010, 01:01 PM   #1970
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I am having alot of trouble with my evo2 and in desperate need of some help.

My car seems to have no rear traction. i cant drive through a corner without the rear end drifting out. i cant get onto the power unless the car has lost all turning momentum or the back will drift out.

now my latest problem is i cant even turn into a corner without the car going into a spin. at my local track we have a few sweepers that off high speed straights that we simply turn full lock to wash off speed instead of breaking. i can no longer do it as my car just spins out.

origionaly i thought i had too much steering and the car was just oversteering and drifting through the corner. but now it is doing it on the way into the corner and i am getting very angry at the track.

Everyone at the track have been giving me advise and tips to try and fix the problem. i have gone back to the stock setup. i have gone back to my setups i used before the problem got this bad. i have used other peoples setups and nothing seems to work. i have replaced parts and completely rebuilt the car and the problem only seems to get worse by the race meet

i have always strugled for tail grip in this car but when the car was newer it was bearable. but i am now at my wits end and im ready to sell the car and buy something else. no one can figure out where it has gone wrong

some people are saying i have too much steering. some people say its in the tail of the car. but i no longer no what to do

my current setup is
Front toe 1 degree out each side
2 degrees of front camber
+1 front droop
front and rear anti roll bars flat
3 degrees of rear camber
3 degrees of rear toe in
Front spool
30K rear diff oil
2mm offset rear driveshafts
+4 rear droop
Rear upper arms in the outer hole of the lower row
C ackerman link

Apart form that the rest is pretty stock
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Old 03-14-2010, 01:29 PM   #1971
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TIX View Post
I am having alot of trouble with my evo2 and in desperate need of some help.
Just some questions...

Is anyone else running a Evo2 at your track?
What body are you running?
Have you tried 10K diff oil in the rear?
What shore tires are you running and is this much different than anyone else's?
Have you checked your bearings recently to make sure none are bad?

My .02 cents would be to start by changing the diff oil to 10K.

Also, go to the RRR Knowledge Base at my Web site and go over the FAQ section. There is some useful theory that may help with your troubleshooting efforts.

Good luck!
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Old 03-14-2010, 01:55 PM   #1972
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What tire shore are you using? what is the front shore and rear shore?

also what is the diameter? try 60mm front and 62mm rear

make sure your rear droop drops when you lift the rear suspension.

what is the ride height? front and rear?

try 5.5mm in the front and 6.0mm rear

also try a lighter load in the rear diff. like 5k rear diff oil


Quote:
Originally Posted by TIX View Post
I am having alot of trouble with my evo2 and in desperate need of some help.

My car seems to have no rear traction. i cant drive through a corner without the rear end drifting out. i cant get onto the power unless the car has lost all turning momentum or the back will drift out.

now my latest problem is i cant even turn into a corner without the car going into a spin. at my local track we have a few sweepers that off high speed straights that we simply turn full lock to wash off speed instead of breaking. i can no longer do it as my car just spins out.

origionaly i thought i had too much steering and the car was just oversteering and drifting through the corner. but now it is doing it on the way into the corner and i am getting very angry at the track.

Everyone at the track have been giving me advise and tips to try and fix the problem. i have gone back to the stock setup. i have gone back to my setups i used before the problem got this bad. i have used other peoples setups and nothing seems to work. i have replaced parts and completely rebuilt the car and the problem only seems to get worse by the race meet

i have always strugled for tail grip in this car but when the car was newer it was bearable. but i am now at my wits end and im ready to sell the car and buy something else. no one can figure out where it has gone wrong

some people are saying i have too much steering. some people say its in the tail of the car. but i no longer no what to do

my current setup is
Front toe 1 degree out each side
2 degrees of front camber
+1 front droop
front and rear anti roll bars flat
3 degrees of rear camber
3 degrees of rear toe in
Front spool
30K rear diff oil
2mm offset rear driveshafts
+4 rear droop
Rear upper arms in the outer hole of the lower row
C ackerman link

Apart form that the rest is pretty stock
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Old 03-14-2010, 02:25 PM   #1973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TIX View Post
I am having alot of trouble with my evo2 and in desperate need of some help.

My car seems to have no rear traction. i cant drive through a corner without the rear end drifting out. i cant get onto the power unless the car has lost all turning momentum or the back will drift out.

now my latest problem is i cant even turn into a corner without the car going into a spin. at my local track we have a few sweepers that off high speed straights that we simply turn full lock to wash off speed instead of breaking. i can no longer do it as my car just spins out.

origionaly i thought i had too much steering and the car was just oversteering and drifting through the corner. but now it is doing it on the way into the corner and i am getting very angry at the track.

Everyone at the track have been giving me advise and tips to try and fix the problem. i have gone back to the stock setup. i have gone back to my setups i used before the problem got this bad. i have used other peoples setups and nothing seems to work. i have replaced parts and completely rebuilt the car and the problem only seems to get worse by the race meet

i have always strugled for tail grip in this car but when the car was newer it was bearable. but i am now at my wits end and im ready to sell the car and buy something else. no one can figure out where it has gone wrong

some people are saying i have too much steering. some people say its in the tail of the car. but i no longer no what to do

my current setup is
Front toe 1 degree out each side
2 degrees of front camber
+1 front droop
front and rear anti roll bars flat
3 degrees of rear camber
3 degrees of rear toe in
Front spool
30K rear diff oil
2mm offset rear driveshafts
+4 rear droop
Rear upper arms in the outer hole of the lower row
C ackerman link

Apart form that the rest is pretty stock
Strange; are you sure that there is no slip between front and rear in your drive train? We've also had problems like that at times, and it has always turned out to be caused by some silly problem in the drive train, but your rear droop is too short in my belief, and just wouldn't work in our setups.

Make sure that that your rear shockies have lots of travel; long shafts so the arms have heaps of up and down movement, and use the upper shock ball position on the arms or longer ball ends on the shockie shafts, if they don't have much down travel. Also important; disconnect the rear sway bar; the sway bar makes wheels on both sides work together; and you will get much more grip on bumpy and low grip tracks if you run an independent rear suspension. The car will lift the wheel when its going around a corner if it isn't totally free of any restrictions to the travel of the arms, and you want both rear wheels on the ground at all times in your case. Don't worry about chatter from too much droop at this stage; you can look into that later if it becomes a problem.

Leave the front droop where you have it now, until you have enough rear grip.

Could you please keep us updated on the cause of this, perhaps there is something to learn from it?

Kindest regards,
Lars.
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Last edited by Chickentrader; 03-14-2010 at 02:51 PM.
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Old 03-14-2010, 02:32 PM   #1974
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Car comes with a front oneway - are you sure the front oneway bearings are installed to the right direction ? Just a thought...
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Old 03-14-2010, 10:08 PM   #1975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikaR View Post
Car comes with a front oneway - are you sure the front oneway bearings are installed to the right direction ? Just a thought...
he is running a spool

Toso's old set up is 3.5 degree rear toe in and 4-5 degree rear camber, also make sure you have proper split between front and rear tire size.

if the rears get to small and catch up to the fronts the rear of the car will get looser

One more thing I had saimilar issue this past weekend, I was runnig 37 front tires and 40 rear tires and was spinning out just about everywhere on the medium grip track. I switch to 40 fronts and 35 rears and the car was instantly smoother with very good rear traction, granted it had a little on throttle push but definetly easier to drive and better then spinning out, Also had lots of rear tire wear, this tire set would not work in long main but good enough for Qualifing. You would be able to harden the rear when traction comes up
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Old 03-14-2010, 10:18 PM   #1976
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedypeterb View Post
he is running a spool

Toso's old set up is 3.5 degree rear toe in and 4-5 degree rear camber, also make sure you have proper split between front and rear tire size.

if the rears get to small and catch up to the fronts the rear of the car will get looser

One more thing I had saimilar issue this past weekend, I was runnig 37 front tires and 40 rear tires and was spinning out just about everywhere on the medium grip track. I switch to 40 fronts and 35 rears and the car was instantly smoother with very good rear traction, granted it had a little on throttle push but definetly easier to drive and better then spinning out, Also had lots of rear tire wear, this tire set would not work in long main but good enough for Qualifing. You would be able to harden the rear when traction comes up
You could also try using a Kyosho 21T front side pulley. That will give you heaps more drive out of the corners. I don't think there is a 22T pulley that would fit, but the the 21T pulley works well with a (slightly shorter) TM G4RS08 side belt.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
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Old 03-15-2010, 01:13 AM   #1977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TIX View Post
I am having alot of trouble with my evo2 and in desperate need of some help.

My car seems to have no rear traction. i cant drive through a corner without the rear end drifting out. i cant get onto the power unless the car has lost all turning momentum or the back will drift out.

now my latest problem is i cant even turn into a corner without the car going into a spin. at my local track we have a few sweepers that off high speed straights that we simply turn full lock to wash off speed instead of breaking. i can no longer do it as my car just spins out.

origionaly i thought i had too much steering and the car was just oversteering and drifting through the corner. but now it is doing it on the way into the corner and i am getting very angry at the track.

Everyone at the track have been giving me advise and tips to try and fix the problem. i have gone back to the stock setup. i have gone back to my setups i used before the problem got this bad. i have used other peoples setups and nothing seems to work. i have replaced parts and completely rebuilt the car and the problem only seems to get worse by the race meet

i have always strugled for tail grip in this car but when the car was newer it was bearable. but i am now at my wits end and im ready to sell the car and buy something else. no one can figure out where it has gone wrong

some people are saying i have too much steering. some people say its in the tail of the car. but i no longer no what to do

my current setup is
Front toe 1 degree out each side
2 degrees of front camber
+1 front droop
front and rear anti roll bars flat
3 degrees of rear camber
3 degrees of rear toe in
Front spool
30K r/belt ear diff oil
2mm offset rear driveshafts
+4 rear droop
Rear upper arms in the outer hole of the lower row
C ackerman link

Apart form that the rest is pretty stock
Dont thing there is too much wrong in your setup as a starting point , 10 k rear diff would be good. Your Epa on your control is too much reduce it and run servo at there normal travel speed . also make sure your servo horn on your steering servo is of the right length , also check if your front belt hitting the servo saver .....
try it and get back to us
Regards
Alex
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Last edited by Alex Siddique; 03-15-2010 at 01:26 AM.
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Old 03-15-2010, 01:25 AM   #1978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii View Post
Just some questions...

Is anyone else running a Evo2 at your track?
What body are you running?
Have you tried 10K diff oil in the rear?
What shore tires are you running and is this much different than anyone else's?
Have you checked your bearings recently to make sure none are bad?

My .02 cents would be to start by changing the diff oil to 10K.
The Evo is the most popular car at our track.
Im running the Dodge 3.1, i tried the new R5-N body on the weekend and it was worse.
I havent tryed as low as 10K rear diff oil but i was down to 20K and it was worse than it was with higher oils. it got better with 50K but wasn't great so i went back to 30K whick is what everyone runs at our track.
It doesnt seem to matter what shore tires i run it still does it. i have tryed 37 through 42 and it doent mak a difference. 40's are the common tire for the track.
I just installed a new set of bearings and they all run free.

Quote:
Originally Posted by racer301 View Post
also what is the diameter? try 60mm front and 62mm rear

make sure your rear droop drops when you lift the rear suspension.

what is the ride height? front and rear?
I have tried all kinds of tyre diameters 57-59mm right up to 61-63mm and it didnt change a thing
that is the ride height i am running 5.5/6mm

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chickentrader View Post
Strange; are you sure that there is no slip between front and rear in your drive train? We've also had problems like that at times, and it has always turned out to be caused by some silly problem in the drive train, but your rear droop is too short in my belief, and just wouldn't work in our setups.

Make sure that that your rear shockies have lots of travel; long shafts so the arms have heaps of up and down movement, and use the upper shock ball position on the arms or longer ball ends on the shockie shafts, if they don't have much down travel. Also important; disconnect the rear sway bar; the sway bar makes wheels on both sides work together; and you will get much more grip on bumpy and low grip tracks if you run an independent rear suspension. The car will lift the wheel when its going around a corner if it isn't totally free of any restrictions to the travel of the arms, and you want both rear wheels on the ground at all times in your case. Don't worry about chatter from too much droop at this stage; you can look into that later if it becomes a problem.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
This is exactly what i thought was the problem. its acting exactly like it would if it was rear wheel driving. problem is there is no slip. bi have tried new belts and gears this week and it didnt change a thing. all the drive is getting to the front.
Is there a longer shock shaft i can get? i have tried what you are saying and on the weekend i even unscrewed the ball ends a little further so they were 12.1mm instead of 11.5mm
a longer ball end wont give me any more droop as the shock length is really determined by the droop. i have made sure the shocks are longer that the arm position at full droop.
how much droop do you think i should be running? to get it i will have to run longer ball end so i will try it
I will also try running with out the rear sway bar and see if that helps

Thanks everyone
ill give all your tips a try. there are a few here that no one has given me yet so hopefully it will work
Im going to cempletely rebuild the car again and see if there is something binding aswell
Thanks again guys
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Old 03-15-2010, 02:41 AM   #1979
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im assuming you race at lilydale this is my set up

i have an evo so its more of a starting point

Front
-1 camber R
-1.5 camber L
1 degree toe out
-1 droop
caster the arms in the middle
shocks layed all the way down

Rear
-4 camber L
-3 camber R
-3 toe in
4 droop
shocks layed all the way down

sway bars flat

everything else kit

hope that helps
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Old 03-15-2010, 09:57 PM   #1980
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Hat was the setup I was running and it was loose, but not like it has gotten to now. It's what Steven and Peter had told me to run. But now even with that setup it is having this problem.
I'll have to rebuild the whole car again
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